rocketraider

Code 75. Also shows up as Spectra Red in mid 70s

Try 865-354-4695. That's the last phone # I have for him.

There are three different versions of these wheelcovers. The cast aluminum disc is the same on all, the center cap is different. 1964- N93 are for Starfire and Jetstar I and have a two-bar spinner center with 1964-style Oldsworld. N94 are for Ninety-Eights, Dynamic and Super 88s and have a large dished center without spinner, again with 1964-style Oldsworld. 1965 N93 were available on all full-size cars except Jetstar 88s and had a two-bar spinner with Rocket. Beautiful wheelcover if you can find the special wheels they mount on. I gave up and decided the wire wheel covers looked just as good. You find a lot of the cast discs with chunks broken out of the edge. Tire shops etc who didn't know what they were would try to pry them off and end up breaking them. There were also complaints they were hard to balance and required on-car balancing (anyone remember Bear or John Bean speed balancers?).

Early 60s Ford headlining material had an open-cell foam appearance. You may be able to get a Starfire headliner made of that material to approxiimate the OE look. Otherwise, SOL. The Starfoam wasn't one of their better ideas.

And no Steve, you can't have my October 1983-present JWO collection yet <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />, but I will consider willing it and my Oldsmobile service and sales literature collection to the Library and Research Center if you think they can use it.

What's really sad is that a lot of the issues you need were thrown in the dumpster a few months after they were printed. Clay saves a few of each issue in case someone asks for a back issue, but most of the excess production goes in the trash. I believe it's printed and priced by rounding up to nearest 1000 needed to fulfill subscriptions. And what is really IRRITATING is that OCA's current Road Show Coordinator claims it is too expensive to ship sample (read leftover) copies to Road Show hosts so they go in the trash. I know for fact $5000 was budgeted for Road Show every year I served as a Director (I made the motions), and we rarely spent more than $1200-1500 of it. He also refused to pay for the Club Portapotty at Spring Carlisle ($65 for the weekend) and griped about paying for tables, chairs and refreshments. Says no other swap meet costs that much- well, dammit, other swap meets aren't Carlisle. And I sure missed that Portajohn- standing in line 10-15 minutes to pee gets real old real quick. We no longer even have a presence at Hershey because the guy who was doing it got tired of fooling with the RS Coordinator's quirks and fidgets, but that seems to be a trademark of people associated with the 1998-2002 regime. As an orphaned marque we need visibility now more than ever.

Try Bill Sawrey in TN. TOOLZGUY@aol.com If you can tell him the K-M or Borroughs tool # he can tell you right off if he has it, or if you can give a good description he can probably come thru with it. Some years the shop books say to modify existing tools to work for the current model year. Hope for one unmodified.

1974 parts book shows that in 1972, 970 is black and A65 is notchback bench seat. I can't break it down whether it was vinyl or cloth, the parts books don't go there. A 1972 Color & Fabric book will show all the trim codes and patterns, but it's usually expensive since it's a musclecar year. You're right, Sequoia Green/Covert Beige with a black interior is an odd combination. I'd have expected it to have green or gold.

Look on the data plate underhood and you'll see a PNT code. Some years it's a number, some a letter. There are numbers for both lower body, and upper body or vinyl/convertible roof color. Think there were three blues that year- the solid sky blue, metallic medium blue, and metallic dark blue.

Frank, I'd look around first to see if those engine controls are still available. I'd hate to think about any of that complex system quitting hundreds of miles away from home, with the likelihood of finding a mechanic who actually knew anything about it near zero. If it quit with all 8 cylinders would be one thing, but if it quit and left you on 4, well, you get the idea. It was an interesting and advanced concept and could probably be made to work with today's electronics. Surprising no carmaker has revived it. The reason it didn't catch on was because it was prone to failure, and Cadillac owners weren't keen on their new Caddy spending more time in the shop than on the road. I'd say yes, it will have some collector value just because of its engine management sytem and the fact one still exists and is functioning.

The OE part # is group 1.050 p/n 391191, listed as 1966-67, but that doesn't mean a later one won't work fine. 68-81 is a lot of years to cover and there's different p/n's scattered all thru the books for those years. This may be one of those times you have to bite the bullet and use a generic aftermarket part until you can find the GM piece- which from my experience on ebay and at swap meets has become a high dollar item especially if it fits a 68-72 Cutlass. I've noticed that some aftermarket brands, notably Imperial, can be rather noisy when they engage. Get the thermostatic type fan clutch as that's what the cars came with.

Starchief was Pontiac's middle line full-size car and incorporated an "Executive" subseries for several years. I think 289 is a typo; all the big 62 Pontiacs had 389s. A Starchief will also have Jetaway Super HydraMatic, which is much easier to live with than the Catalina's Slim Jim. Value? Hard to say, but any nice original car is a desirable find even in 4-door versions. BTW all 62 Starchiefs were 4-doors. You could get them as hardtops or sedans.

Driveline components were typically made 3 weeks to 3 months ahead of the car, but 5 months wouldn't be excessively ahead. Look on the body data plate underhood and you'll see a "TIME" code which will look something like 03A or similar, which in this example is first week (A) of March (03). Since the car was sold in March 65, my bet is that you'll find a 01_ (January) or 02_ (February) time built code, which would put the engine casting date right in line with the car's build date. Nice catch, BTW. 65s have the sexiest tail of any Starfire, which becomes a problem when you need to replace any of it <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" />.

The original equipment white-letter option would have been a Goodyear Polyglas GT, Uniroyal Tiger Paw or Firestone SuperSports Wide-Oval bias-belted "low-profile" tire, size G70-14. Firestone still offered a single pinstripe whitewall Wide Oval that year which would also be correct for your car. The standard OE whitewall would have been a single 1" whitewall for Cutlass and S, or a dual-pinstripe whitewall for Supreme, size G78-14 bias-belted. The same manufacturers and General made these. The current comparable size in modern radials is 215/75R14 for whitewalls or 225/70R14 in white letter. Most tiremakers still offer these sizes.

Take the rubber seal off to check the fluid. My guess is either the fluid is low or you've got leaking wheel cylinders. Possibly also weak rubber hoses. For a car as heavy as a Delta, good brakes are critical. If you plan to drive and enjoy the car, money spent on the braking system is money well spent. You can get all the parts except hard steel lines or drums at NAPA or CarQuest.

They're worthless. Send them to me and I'll cover the shipping costs just to help you get rid of them. All kidding aside, C&F albums in good condition and complete generally go for $85-100 and up from a literature vendor, a bit less expensive in private sales or between enthusiasts. I've noticed that one big-name lit vendor from MA (who shall remain nameless) asks premium money for C&F albums that are missing pages, color chips missing or stuck together, dirty fabric samples etc. The gentleman also does not like returns. Some years that cover popular models tend to go high. Not unusual to see any 50s GM C&F go for $350 or more.

The 1968 drivetrain would actually be a near drop-in in a 1964 Jetstar 88 as they used 330s which are the same engine family. You'll have to shorten the driveshaft and put the Turbo 400 yoke on it. All the auxiliary brackets from the 330 will bolt onto the 455. The 64 radiator is different too, the return hose is on the driver's side meaning you'll have to get a radiator custom-made or use the 1964-only 330 water pump.

Razz, give us some basic info on the car. What body style? Town or Luxury Sedan (4-doors with posts between door glass), Holiday Coupe (2-door) or Sedan (4-door) without posts, Convertible? Options? I've seen loaded Holiday and LS cars and totally stripper Town Sedans. Give us some idea what you're working with, and what you urgently need, and we can help you more. Also the budget you're working with as some of the chrome stuff can get expensive depending on who's selling it. PM me and I'll send you some reputable big Olds parts sources. DaveZZZ has a 67 Ninety Eight convertible, and I have 2 64 Starfires and am a big fan of Ninety Eights (grew up with them). I have shop manuals and parts books so can help you with part #s and interchanges between model years. As Alan (Starfire) suggested, search ebay for: nos olds*, 1965 olds* and 65 olds* . Also visit www.fusick.com and get their 1961-77 full-size car catalog. They offer some reproduction parts as well as NOS. Let me know where you are and I may be able to find you an OCA mentor in your area. Joining the Oldsmobile Club of America is always worthwhile for an old Olds owner. AACA too. What's sad is that a lot of 60s full-size parts cars gave up their 425 and 455 engines to a Cutlass and then got crushed, leaving us big-car fans with limited used parts resources <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif" alt="" />.

<span style="font-style: italic">Standard Catalog of American Cars</span> says no 1968 Monaco convertibles built at all- 4d sedan and HT, 2d HT, 6 & 9 passenger wagons. Monaco 500 is listed as 5 passenger 2d HT coupe only, production 3400. SC shows 1968 Polara 500 5 passenger coupes and convertibles were built. I've always found the SC to be reasonably accurate. A gorgeous 1966 Monaco 500 coupe showed up at a cruise night in Lynchburg VA last week.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I thought the letter from the bank was a good idea but they looked at me like I was crazy. Said how did they know I wouldn't take out all the money after they wrote the letter.</div></div> With a crack like that, I'd have closed the accounts right then and there and found a new bank. I'd have made the branch manager handle everything too including explaining to above why a longterm customer suddenly cashed everything in and left. There's small service-oriented banks around, you just may have to search a bit. A couple have opened here in the last ten years or so in a backlash against Bank of America and First Union and their megabanks <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif" alt="" /> .

The one that got us, was when we had dinner in a fine little Italian-owned pizza joint, we could not buy a beer to wash it down. Excellent pizza, but no tavern license. Pizza Hut had a tavern license, but I cannot stomach Pizza Hut pizza. Guess we've gotten spoiled to VA/NC ABC laws. Some localities are dry, and some prohibit Sunday beer sales (the county merchants here are always squalling about that because the city allows Sunday beer sales after 1PM and they lose sales), but we can buy our beer and unfortified wine in any grocery, jiffymart (that's a convenience store to y'all not from here) or even drugstore. WalMart does a booming beer business. Kinda funny- Sheetz in their home state of PA don't sell beer. The ones here have LARGE walk-in beer coolers and the lowest prices next to WalMart. And with the Martinsville race this past weekend, it stayed nearly empty. Guess what Dave? We can get Yuengling here. Still no Genesee though.

Engine # should match the VIN. Look on a machined pad, front left side of engine behind the alternator bracket and you'll see a stamped number that should have the car's VIN in it. Trans code should match what the chassis manual calls for. Distributor has a specific number for specific engines. Trans, rear end, alternator, a/c compressor, all that sort of stuff will have date codes that should be a few weeks before actual car build date. If you don't have a 1976 Oldsmobile chassis manual and Fisher Body manual, they're two of the best investments you can ever make for your car. A lot of that information is in them.

We've had decent enough weather here that the Ninety-Eight and the Toro have both been on 200-mile plus road trips thru winter. The Toro went to a cruise night in Lynchburg Saturday- about an hour each way. It was near 80 here that day and His Lizardness let me know I didn't put enough lead additive in his tank to compensate for winter blend gas on a warm day. Persnickety beast... I still have to get the green Starfire out, and the Hurst still has no interior or weatherstripping though I have found a guy locally who can put the vinyl roof and stripes on it. Maybe, just maybe, it will go out before summer's end.

These plugs also occasionally show up on ebay... I've found them when searching "NOS Olds*" as they were also used on the 61-63 215s.

Carlisle Productions has a notary and title office on site to handle change of ownership paperwork and issue a temporary Pennsylvania transport tag if needed. I'd recommend getting a letter of introduction and credit from your bank or credit union, on their letterhead. That letter will identify you as a customer and will guarantee that the bank will honor your check up to an amount that you and the bank agree on beforehand. That may convince a seller to take your check. Otherwise, cash talks. I think CP can also do electronic funds transfer services, so that if you find a vehicle you want, you can call your bank and have them wire the money to you at the swap meet. Just make sure you've discussed the possibility of such a transaction with a bank officer before you go. Another possibility is a credit line on a charge card. You might have to pay a user fee but it'll get the job done till you can pay off the transfer.