rocketraider

The rear bumper may get expensive because 1) they rust out from behind in the bracket area, and 2) it fits the Starfire. A parts car with good door trim is your best bet for the door panels. You may have to dye a set to match. If it's just water damage on the bottoms, a good trim shop may be able to make new cardboard sections and cover them.

Think he's looking for the rear door weatherstrips. Buick Electra and Cad SDV should be the same.

www.oldspower.com has a strong g-body presence though it's not quite as good as it once was. There's also a g-mail list but I don't have a link for that. You should be able to find it thru OP.

Pic won't come thru, but he shouldn't have to pull the knob if the radio is already out of the car. He can look behind the RH knob and see the wires and three pins going into the radio chassis from the fader switch. The rear speaker could be in either location depending on carline. All convertibles had the rear speaker in the grille in the seat; Ninety Eights often had it in that location. Most others had it under the right side of the package shelf. If the fader knob is on the radio, it should say "FRONT-SPEAKERS-REAR" if it's a rear speaker radio. Radios without it had a plain knob. If he hasn't pulled the unit out of the car yet, he's got to pull the knobs to get it out, so what's his balk? Remind him the knobs are held on with a setscrew so he won't tear them up taking it out.

Slim Jims are such weird animals that I'd be wary of using synthetic unless the trans was newly rebuilt. Even then it may not be compatible with the clutch facings. Most folks now are using Dexron in older HydraMatics. D-II was probably better for Slim Jims than D-III, but I haven't heard of any failures directly caused by using it.

Every 63-66 AM-FM I've seen had the rear speaker provision, but I suppose it was available without. Look behind the tuning knob and see if there are three holes in a vertical line behind it, with blue, green and white wires going around the side of the radio. If they are there it is a rear speaker radio and your existing speaker fader control knob will operate it. Used to could buy rear speaker fader kits at Radio Shack, Lafayette Radio, places like that, but I don't know if you'd find one now or not. My green Starfire has an Archer reverb unit which controls the reverb amp and fader, but it seems to cancel out the original speaker fader control. I'd as soon be shet of it. Maybe soon I'll have time to work on that car some.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">the 4-GC has no "personality". In other words, <span style="font-weight: bold">it either always works, or it always fails.</span></div></div> Truer words never spoken! The one on my blue Starfire has always been one of those that "always fails". I give up- it was wacked from the factory- had to be.

ROP is up and running again. The site was hacked to pieces early this week and the entire database of info was lost, but the Hunts have done a remarkable job of getting their site working again. Highly recommended site for those of you with a performance bent. I understand thru the grapevine that several other auto forums including V8Buick and MalibuRacing have also been hacked recently, supposedly by the same hacker. What would make someone destroy something that had never done him any harm, other than bragging rights of saying he succeeded? I have my own ideas about hacker/spammer/virus author punishment, and it ain't pretty. I cannot stand people who destroy just to inconvenience or [censored] someone off.

I've never used it so can't comment. I generally use Wenol, Mothers, or Blue Magic. I've also gotten really nice results on metal using Meguiars' paint polishes.

I have a 1964 Oldsmobile radio jingle record album. Unfortunately it is warped so that the first 3 or 4 bands on each side are unplayable- on a modern turntable, anyway. Tone arm just bounces everytime it crosses the warp. Anyone have any good tricks to straighten a vinyl album? I'd kinda like to record some of the jingles to cassette or answering machine.

Closest I can get you is that it is something on the front clip. It's not in my 74 book, and my 62 and 64 are body only.

That mess over on ROP isn't helping much. Wish I knew who hacked it. Russell said on oldspower.com a few minutes ago that they hope to be up and running again pretty quick.

I like dat! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

Check your Private Messages. Lead on a source in SC.

Hallo Bill- PM me with a price and honest condition on the 57, 58 and 75 New Product Info. I use them as reference so I'm not really looking for show display quality, though I like to have complete ones not totally falling apart!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayIS...TRK%3AMEWA%3AIT Just what the doctor ordered. It is the correct GM part # for 61-64 Slim Jim. Let me know if you want to bid it, because I have it on my watch list. I already have a couple of spares, so I'd defer to you in this case. Be warned that it might go stupid, especially since there's a couple of noobs already into it. We're not the only ones looking for them. If this doesn't pan out, www.autotran.us which is David Edwards in MA. He has a stock of these filters as well as rebuild kits for most obsolete automatics.

The silver pieces are for F85/Cutlass/Supreme. The black painted areas are 442-specific even though the taillight bezel and trunk moulding are otherwise identical between 442 and the others. A 60% gloss black works good here. If you'd rather not fool with mixing and spraying paint, Krylon Semi-Gloss black spray bombs work too. Clean the pieces with a good wax remover, then mask and shoot a light primer coat (barely enough to cover). You'll need that to get the topcoat to stick to the chrome. Finish with the black topcoat and walla! The lighter coats the better so you don't lose the grain in the trunk moulding. Make sure to use same brand primer and paint, and also use top quality masking tape- 3M or equivalent. You can trim the outline of the letters with a frisket knife or x-acto knife to get a good sharp edge.

The best resource is a 1955 dealer Color & Fabric Album. It shows all carlines' interior trims and exterior color availability. The downside is the 1955 book is very expensive when found. They were going for $250 or more 20 years ago for complete ones. To match original fabric, www.smsautofabrics.com and give them the TR code off the car's underhood data plate. They will send samples of their closest matching fabrics. You can then get your upholsterer to estimate yardage needed. SMS is not inexpensive, but they have fabric for almost any car made. I think I'm right that 1955 Ninety-Eights use the same body cloth on both the seat facings and door side panels.

Brake booster and wiper motor are actually plated. Booster is zinc dichromate (gold w/rainbow effect) and wiper is generally a dull silver. The master cylinder and exhaust manifolds are natural cast iron gray. Several companies offer brake booster rebuild/replating services. If you don't want the expense of plating, Eastwood has kits to duplicate the booster and wiper motor finishes. Use hi-temp cast iron gray paint on the other stuff.

Cold engine (coolant temp below 115 degrees): switch in "run", "[color:"red"]GEN", "[color:"red"]OIL" and "[color:"green"]COLD" should light. Turn to "start", all should stay lit and "[color:"red"]HOT" should light. All go out with engine running except in abnormal conditions. Warm engine: same as above except "[color:"green"]COLD" does not light. A good way to check the bulb and circuit is to turn switch to "run", disconnect the sending unit wire and jumper it to a clean metal ground. Lamp should light; if not, either there is an open in the wiring or the sending unit is bad. I suspect your oil sender is bad. On the "COLD" light: these cars use a dual terminal temperature sender. It was last used in 1970 and is not generally available in modern parts stores. If the sender has been replaced with a later single terminal type, the cold light will not work. The good news is they seem to be readily available on ebay, both NOS GM Delco-Remy and aftermarket. I prefer genuine D-R parts as I have seen aftermarket senders do strange things, like cold light never goes out, or oil light flickers. GM part #s: temp sender, grp. 1.150, p/n 1993316, 1963-66 except F85/Toronado. Oil sender, grp 1.800, p/n 6460391, 1956-64 exc 1964 330.

www.smsautofabrics.com You can do a search on the website by furnishing them the trim code. You'll find it on the data plate underhood. Look for TR followed by two or three numbers. They'll contact if they have it and will mail samples.

Does car currently have a BB Chevy in it? or Olds 400? Answer to both is yes, whichever engine car is set up for, the 402/454 Chevy will bolt in place of each other, and the 400/455 Olds will do the same. Chevy and Olds will not bolt in place of each other- different mounts etc. Try 442.com and realoldspower.com . Guys on those sites have done this swap dozens of times, and have also experimented with different reciprocating assemblies.

Gregg, if you can't find a cable, there are tools that can re-coil the end to fit on the control head. May be a little shorter, but if worst to worst, I think you could probably get a lawnmower throttle cable at Wally World and replace the inside wire of your control cable with the one from the new mower part. Use the coiling tool to make it the right length with new coiled ends. You can probably find the tool at www.eastwood.com, but I got mine off a tool trailer that always comes to Charlotte and Carlisle swap meets. Cost about 5 bux. Not that I ever get to go to the spring shows anymore since we have become the Nuclear Fossil Division and spend the whole month of April in outages. Good to have you on board.

Not only is Dan a fantastic automotive artist, he's a good guy too. Not above setting up in a small local swap meet, even outdoors. The "reflecting" and junkyard pictures are his specialty. I just wish he did more Oldsmobiles...

The quickest place I know of would be the AACA Library, which you can link to from this site. Keep in mind Kim has just suffered a catastrophic personal loss.