rocketraider

Thanks for the address Steve. All of you, please share this with your Olds circle and make sure to send a card while we still have her.

There's just something about that phrase this time of year... we Olds types can't resist it! The best of the season to you and yours, and your favorite Buricks too!

Just something about that phrase that we Olds types can't resist this time of year... The best of the season to you and yours!

As always around this time of year, Happy "Holidays" to you and yours!

No problem- sometimes dealing with such a company is enough to drive people over the hedge. I gotta admit Maniac's idea is intriguing...

I've seen one company offering rebuilt digital dashes on e-bay, but I can't remember the name. I found it searching for Bravada stuff. I like 90-92 Toronados a lot, but the digital dash display scares me away from them.

100% stock is not relevant here. I like a modified car as much as anyone. The point is that Leno, and especially his builder, did not believe the Toronado FWD platform was capable of supporting what they wanted to do and chose to not only use a non-Olds powerplant, but to totally disregard what makes a Toronado a Toronado- <span style="font-weight: bold">front wheel drive</span>. If they wanted to be imaginative, and set trends, they would have started with something besides a generic GM engine. That's been done to death and has created a whole genre of boring-ass custom cars. When I see an otherwise nicely done car and find yet another dyked-out 350 Chevy powering it, I tend to lose all interest. As I said earlier- put in a comparable Oldsmobile engine and all wheel drive, and that's something to talk about.

Olds Club of Arizona based in Scottsdale is the only one I know of, but the National Antique Olds Club hosted their National Meet in Prescott a few years ago so I'd think there's some pre-1965 cars there. You can link to the NAOC website using the "Participating Clubs" toolbar to your left. OCAz- 7402 E. Paradise Drive, Scottsdale AZ 85260. In absence of a local marque club, an AACA group is the next best thing! You can use this website to find a local chapter or Region in your state.

Someone from Joisey showed up at my place of business with a large stick, I'd probably give 'em the keys to the joint! And then run like hell! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> Maybe you and LaTorre need to get together and take a ride out toward Missouri. I don't think he ever got any satisfaction on that interior kit they botched.

That sounds like the same bullhockey HydraMatic Division spouted in the mid 80s when Turbo-Buicks were toasting 200-4Rs. "We can't build a transmission that will hold up to those engines!". Baloney. What they were saying was the bean counters wouldn't let them spend the money to build one. Interesting how, around 1985 or so after several years of extraordinary transmission warranty claims, they suddenly built a 200-4R that could take it. I mean, after all, they built transmissions that could take big-block Olds, Buick and Pontiac engines. Besides- the Turbo 425 was overengineered in the first place. Had this builder WANTED to build a high-horsepower Olds powerplant for this car, he would have found a way to do it.

403 is an Olds-design engine, used in 1977-79 B-O-P as it was the most emissions-friendly V8 engine GM had in those years. Matter of fact, Olds was selling so many engines to Buick and Pontiac that they ended up having to put Chevy 350s in their own cars, and we all know what that led to. I often wonder if the lawsuits and payout influenced GM to ditch Oldsmobile. 403 are torquey engines, just what is needed to get a heavy wagon moving. They respond well to typical hot-rod mods, and can benefit greatly from using earlier Olds small-block heads though you will have to ream out the bolt holes for the 403's 1/2" headbolts. Their weak link is that they are windowed main web engines and can't safely go much over 5g. You'd have to design your own MFI. I know several people who have used Holley Pro-jection TBI on Olds engines. 400/425/455 are kinda scarce these days. 65-67 are the best 400 engines but those and most 425 use 45 degree lifter bank angle and cams have to be custom made. They also use large diameter lifters that may be pricey. 68-9 400s are strictly for the restoration crowd- long stroke and prone to grenading if pushed too hard. Early 400/425 are short stroke engines that like to rev. Another weakness of the Olds engine is the oiling system. It will tend to suck the pan dry at high RPM and it will all collect in the rocker area. A serious Olds engine will have to have restrictors installed in the cam and lifter oil galleries to keep the oil on the crankshaft, and lot of people also modify the head and valley drainback holes so it'll run back to the pan quicker. Prices are comparable to Ford FE stuff, i.e. expensive. 350-400 horsepower is no problem with the Olds engine- some years, 2-barrel 455s made over 300 horsepower, and Ninety-Eights regularly had 365 hp 455s installed- that's why you find so many nice 98 sedans sitting around engine-less. www.realoldspower.com is a good resource for high-performance Olds engine builds. And no, sticking a 350 Chevy in your VC won't stir up any bile. We'll just write you off as a closet Chevy case and yawn when we look under your hood ("oh god, not another crate 350")! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> But if you decide to go that route, you need a Chevelle parts car with a good wiring harness, because all the electric stuff is on opposite side from an Olds engine.

If you ordered one thing, and they made and sent something else, then the screwup is theirs. If you have a copy of the original order and invoice showing what you ordered, and shipping papers identifying it as a different construction, point that out. I wasn't happy with the California CC I got for my green Starfire either. It is a heavy duty outdoor rated cover (overkill since the car is garaged), but the fabric is so satiny and slick that it is hard to put on or take off the car single-handed. One of the best covers I've ever owned is a Budge from Auto-Zone, that I paid $49.95 for 7 years ago. It fits the Ninety Eight well, has done a good job keeping dust etc off the car and was reasonably waterproof the few times the car had to stay outside in wet weather. It needs repair where the hood ornament has poked thru it, but it's about as easy and cheap to get another one. Trouble is it's hard to find that size any more.

You're not the first, and I doubt you'll be the last to take a reaming from that company. All I ask is that we not have a bash-fest here on the forums. Keep your complaints and comments factual and professional, and spend your money elsewhere. That's the best way I know to get the point across to someone like that. You can't stay in business if there is no business. You need to file a written complaint with your credit card company for non-delivered merchandise. They'll generally put heat on companies that do not deliver product ordered by credit card. It comes under fraud statutes in most states.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I can't say these are my picks for ALL Car movies but here goes.. BEST RACING MOVIE GREASED LIGHTNING With Richard Pryor inan early role as ELMO SCOTT the only sucessful Black driver thus far in NASCAR RACING this one sticks closer to the real story and doesen't try to be too PC</div></div> Let's make this [color:"red"]<span style="font-weight: bold">WENDELL</span> Scott. The Scott family still live in their compound about a mile from here, and the city of Danville renamed Beavers Mill Road "Wendell Scott Drive" to finally recognise his accomplishments. Several of Wendell's #34 cars are still in the garage area behind the house, and I had the honor and pleasure of talking with him shortly before he died. Wendell wasn't completely happy with the movie, either.

The best I can do is that they are not Oldsmobile. I'm reasonably sure that the 4227349 and 9850326 are mid-to-late 60s judging by the similar part #s used in my Olds books.

Hee hee- nothing in the power window wiring circuit is really simple. Try checking the switch first before tearing into the door. If that doesn't pan out, remove the door trim and try running a jumper wire to each terminal on the motor (be warned the motor plug is sometimes a real bear to get off). You can also do that at the switch block by jumpering from the feed terminal (red/white wire) to the UP terminal (dark blue wire) and the DOWN terminal (brown wire). The blue/white and brown/white are for the right door window and the green and purple are for rear doors. My bet is it's either the switch or a broken terminal in the switch block. You should be able to get the <span style="font-weight: bold">?</span> shaped terminal at a GM dealer, and possibly the switch as it was used for many years in all GM carlines. I've also seen corrosion and rust cause problems like this. I had a 73 88 convertible that I had to clean the switch internally about once a year to keep the windows working. If it turns out to be the motor, replacing it is not difficult but requires a 3/4" hole saw to access the motor attaching bolts. Once you get to those, the motor can be removed and replaced with the window in the car and raised fully UP. All this including electrical diagrams and diagnosis/troubleshooting is in the 1976 Fisher Body Manual.

An Olds 350 will drop right into your engine bay, on the same mounts and all accessories will bolt right onto it. For that matter a 403 will too. Then you can think about 400-425-455 Olds engines. For performance parts, pretty much anything that works on an Olds 350 also works on 330-403 330 isn't really that difficult to find stuff for. They have steel cranks and are tough little beasts, fully capable of making more than 1 hp/cubic inch without a lot of mods. www.usapartssupply.com, or check the parts vendor list sticky in OCA General. If you're absolutely determined to put that Chevy crate engine in it (where's the puke smiley? <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" /> ), you'll need motor mount perches from a Chevelle, a Chevy bolt pattern transmission, and you will also need a Chevelle wiring harness since everything is on the opposite side from the Olds engine. I'm assuming the car in question is a Cutlass or F85, since only Delmont 88 fullsize cars got 330s in 1967.

What are the odds of <span style="font-weight: bold">THREE</span> 1942 Oldsmobiles being less than 75 miles apart? In Nawth Cackalacky no less...<img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> Bob and Julian, when y'all get those 42s together, let me know. I want to come see.

Good lord. That means I need to get my ass in gear and finish this 1974 Hurst! Tell you what- post this also on realoldspower.com . There's a few 73-77 guys on there, and also try www.hurstolds.com for 1973-75 H/O's. I think the Oldsmobile Cutlass Coupes chapter of the OCA is now defunct, and they were exclusively 73-77- they called it "The Forgotten Five". I know of a nearly 100% original 1974 Cutlass sedan in Reidsville NC, unless the guy has done things since he bought it. Typical ugly 70s gold and a low option car. PM me and I'll try to help you contact him if you're interested. Those of you not familiar with <span style="font-style: italic">Collectible Automobile</span>, you're missing out. One of the finest and most accurate collector car magazines in existence.

www.fusick.com has the correct color red paint. 1964 block, intake, oil pan and heads are red; timing cover and water pump are natural aluminum; aircleaner housing and valve covers are dull silver. Always thought that was kinda odd because 1961-63 Starfire engines had chrome valve covers and aircleaners. In addition to the engine paint, Fusick has a lot of underhood detail items for this car. They reproduce all the hoses, battery cables, a-frame seals, hood bumpers, battery hold-downs etc. Depending on how far you want to go, Antique Auto Battery and New Castle Battery both have repro batteries in the correct size for the battery tray. With a J-I, you have the advantage that all the exterior trim is Dynamic 88 so 1) there's less of it, and 2) you don't have to pay Starfire price to replace it. Plus it's just a drop-dead gorgeous car- cleanly styled, nicely appointed, and will run like hell. There was a light blue one on traderonline a few months back, and I sure did wish I'd had some extra money and a place to keep it. My ultimate Olds collection would include 1964: Starfire, Jetstar I, and 98 Custom Sports Coupe- and maybe a four-speed Jetstar 88 coupe. And I keep dreaming <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" />.

As far as I know the Strato-Bench seat frames and tracks were identical for all carlines that used it. All 64-72 6-way seats used the same motor and transmission. You might have to transfer the tracks from one to the other, but that should be no biggie. Question- if your car already has power strato-bench, why not just repad and reupholster that one? Or is it a 2-way and you're looking for 6-way?

76-78 Eldorado rear discs will bolt on to the axle, but you have to consider that those cars used HydroBoost instead of a vacuum power brake booster. I'm not sure if the Eldo master cylinder will bolt onto a vacuum booster and if not, what other m/c is compatible with the mid 70s GM rear disc setup. If you have to adapt the HydroBoost, that means you also have to get power steering pump and hoses from the donor car. I heard the factory service people grumble so much about those rear disc setups that I decided it wasn't worth the effort to put them on my 69. When a Zone service manager looks you in the eye and says, "Believe me, you don't want that system" it tends to influence your decision.

Roberta, I will reserve my comments about GM's fascination with placing non-automotive people who are padding resumes in high executive positions.

Folks, this is an exceptional car that I would love to own myself except, like Julian, I currently have nowhere to store it properly. (Planning to build a garage next year and the money will have to go into that instead of another toy <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> ) You may have seen it at Lansing 97 and Cincinnati 2003. It is a Luxury Sedan with all the amenities that go with that package- Olds' absolute top of the line.

The entire instrument cluster has to come out. You'll first have to remove the heating and ventilation controls, light switch and ignition switch to gain access to the four cluster attaching screws. Once all the electrical connections are out of the way, you can remove the cluster from behind the instrument panel. So yes, a "mission". Not totally easy, but necessary to repair your speedometer. If you don't have one, I recommend purchase of a factory printed 1960 Oldsmobile Service Manual. It will prove invaluable in servicing your Sixty. They are often found on e-bay, or the big literature vendors should have them. It's difficult enough to find service for an older American car here in the States. I can imagine what it's like in the UK, and the service book will help both you and your mechanic in repair.