Grimy

Recommend you measure the thickness of your original plate (non-safety) glass BEFORE removal, and be sure you can get the same thickness in modern safety glass. Sometimes the new stuff readily available is 1/32 or more thinner and you may have to scratch for the correct thickness. By measuring before you take the car out of service, you will minimize downtime.

Thanks, Bob (vwlfan)! That works well on my PC w/mouse, not so much on the touch pad on my tablet.

Amen to Bernie's unnumbered post above (if it were numbered, I wouldn't have to try to distinguish it by using his name). Further (hope this can be addressed), I wish we could return to numbering successive pages on the "unread" list AND when back-arrowing from the 3rd or 4th or 10th unread screen to actually return to the last additional page just viewed rather than to the first page of unread. Some of us check "Unread" 3 or 4 times a day (or less) and tend of look at threads in descending order of personal interest. For example, if I'm catching up and find a thread of interest on the 4th Unread screen, I'd like to be able to go back to the 4th screen rather than the 1st.

Hi Carl, The updates to the system, necessary to prevent Korean and other spam, also unleashed a user-unfriendly format. We're all trying to be patient until pre-changeover photos become available again. The previous format was intuitive and easy to learn, unlike this one. Very many of us are following your adventures and are eager to hear the latest. George aka Grimy

You might try placing the piece on top of the exhaust side splash pan and see how the tab and bolt hole line up--that is the way other cars' similar pieces fit. The apparent purpose is to provide a closer fit surrounding the downpipe, and is often slightly adjustable via elongated bolt holes on the larger splash pan to accommodate slight individual differences in downpipe (or replacement) position. These pieces were not cut out from the exhaust side splash pan, they were supplements to it. But I can tell you that such "final fit" pieces were usually discarded years ago, as they appeared to be too much trouble to re-install for little apparent benefit. Accordingly, they are reasonably rare and certainly desirable for judging. BTW, I claim no expertise on Plymouths. This particular piece may be for some other car, but it is worth saving and definitively identifying.

"Maybe a removable piece to make it easier for the exhaust to be removed." keiser, you're on the money again, several makes of cars had those.

I agree with Seldenguy that Trippe provided a wiring diagram which may be available on the internet or from dealers. My comment should have been restricted to the *automobile* manufacturer. However, any Trippe instructions are necessarily generic. Again, please do NOT run them from your original headlight switch.

In the concurrent, and reasonably hot, thread titled "Trippe lights" http://forums.aaca.org/topic/274220-trippe-lights/the consensus is that Trippes were exclusively aftermarket and not available from the factory or as an authorized dealer-installed accessory. Therefore, you will not find a factory wiring diagram. In my previous post in this thread, I suggested a headlight relay to be used with Trippes. Alternatively, if you don't plan to show at a major concours like Pebble or Amelia, you may wish to use a continuous-duty solenoid such as Cole-Hersee #24097-BX. This is a fairly good size unit which is more difficult to conceal than a NOS or NORS headlight relay, but you can also run a supplemental electric fuel pump or other high-draw accessories from it, if desired. I recommend the power lead, and the wires to the lights, to be AT LEAST 10 gauge.

I agree with Pete. And fuse them separately--you don't want that much juice going thru your factory headlight switch. I also urge that you add a headlight relay for the Trippes.

Hi Carl, best wishes for a superb and successful adventure! This may help (or may not, but it's quick and easy): About ten years ago on a long weekend tour, my 1925 Pierce had the same issue, and I followed this suggestion from a friend. If you are still running an original condenser (and a modern condenser won't fit into the plate without machining the plate), the problem may be the breakdown of the wax paper insulation in the original condenser. So, at his suggestion, I added a modern condenser wired to the distributor side of the low tension side of the (modern) coil. The condenser body must be grounded, so I used a heater hose clamp around the body of the condenser and the radiator steady rod. Any other good ground would work. I did NOT disconnect the original condenser in the body of the distributor; I just left it in place. The condenser value for the 1925 P-A was 0.026-0.030 uf, which is the same as for a 1962 Ford full-size 6-cylinder, so that is what I bought. This was intended to be a temporary fix, but ten years and about 8,000 miles later it's still in place on this driver. It completely solved the problem! And I've monitored point condition, and because the modern condenser is approximately the same value as the original condenser, there has been no cratering of the points. Looking forward to your continued travelogue! And if you return thru the Bay Area, please let me know. I'll be glad to offer you a bunk and garage space.

I usually prime the carburetor--it's easier. Remove the bowl cover of the carb and fill the bowl. An old mustard squeeze bottle is my tool of choice, but I don't let fuel stand in the bottle during storage.

Those are indeed GM trunk hinges from the 1938-40 period but may be Cadillac. Length is important for ID. Please also post in the Cadillac forum.

Way to go, Carl! You brought your Pacific Northwest weather to us in the process. Should improve Monday afternoon, as you know. Let us know if you need help.

+1 to zeke01's comment. Cracks in the pot metal head (lid) will compromise the vacuum. I use a thin coat of black RTV on the TWO gaskets under lid (above and below the flange (lip) of the inner tank. BTW, MOST Stewart vac tanks use the same 4.25" OD head, although fitting locations may vary--and that's irrespective of whether the reservoir portion is long and narrow or short and fat. Other things to check: The two valves under the head are (1) suction valve and (2) atmospheric valve. The are connected by an overcentering lever with two springs. The springs ensure that one valve is closed while the other is open. New springs in stainless are available. Corrosion can also grow on the brass hinge pins. Best with a helper: Hold the lid upright with the float danging, then move the float up and down; check to see that the valves are snapping open and shut, as they should. If they are hanging up, that's at least one of your problems. Two things happen to the valves: (1) they grow white "whiskers" (corrosion) which cause them to hang up--the corrosion can be removed with aerosol carb cleaner and a NYLON brush. (2) the seats for these valves were originally staked (very gently!) into the pot metal and sometimes come loose. You can re-stake (GENTLY!) or epoxy back into place. If the latter, use a minimal amount of epoxy so as not to clog the valve. Flapper at bottom of inner tank can accumulate gummy residue from gasoline, resulting in either (1) flapper doesn't close all the way, or (2) flapper is lightly "glued" shut. Again, carb cleaner and a NYLON brush are your friends. This fault seems to happen to me more frequently in the spring after about the first 10-20 miles after the car's winter nap. Prevention is to drain vac tank before the winter nap. I always carry a METAL pint can or two of fresh gas in a vac tank equipped car. And a funnel! Pour in one can, which can often remove the gummy residue. If your reservoir has accumulated crusty deposits (the gummy residue turned hard), you need solvent PLUS abrasion. I use methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) as the solvent, let it soak a couple of days, then use a wire wheel on a hand drill to remove the crusty residue. Then I apply Metal-Prep or similar to the inside of the reservoir. After that dries, I paint the inside with a thin coat of gas tank sealer. Do this every 20 years! My most recent malfunction turned out to be a clogged atmospheric (vent) passage between the atmo valve and the external vent tube, cleared by aerosol carb cleaner and shop air.. These tanks are simple and generally reliable, but they do need maintenance every 20 years or so. If you google "Stewart vacuum tank" I think you'll find on the web a pdf of the original "owner's manual" showing the innards and giving instructions on troubleshooting. Good luck and keep us posted.

Thanks, Matt, for mentioning the sometimes extreme difficulty in putting SOME tops down or up. My 1930 Pierce roadster takes two people to do it. My 1918 Pierce 48 5-p touring is supposed to have a one man top, but he'd better be Charles Atlas! And the photos in the 1918 owner's manual show the man doing it while keeping his straw boater in place on his head--not bloody likely! The 1918 top down process requires (1) detaching and rolling up and stowing the broadcloth liner, (2) removal of the rear quarter curtains with beveled glass and stowing them where the glass won't get broken, (3) folding the long top, and (4) getting the large folded top into the bag (another 2-person job). Other considerations for whether one prefers top up or down include: * how long are the tours and in what weather? I'm a regular at the annual 4-day Modoc Tour in the NE Calif high desert, with temps in the 90s. Thank you, I'll keep the top up with no side curtains and enjoy great visibility and a good breeze. * how much wind buffeting can one tolerate at speed with no wind wings (1930 roadster)? At 55 mph and up, the wind beats the heck out of you over an hour or so. This car's windshield folds flat and looks REALLY great that way, and feels great at speeds of 25 mph or below--above that, not so much.... Windshield is folded flat for July 4 parades and other such events. * one's own susceptibility to skin cancer. I'm not in the running for Poster Child for skin cancer, but I've had a number of occurrences. For me, SOME top down time is fun and worth the risk, but I don't want to overdo it. It's interesting how some with electrically operated tops on more modern vehicles don't consider the effort and the considerations involved in dealing with manual tops on older iron...

Hi Bud, I have a 1922 Paige 6-66 with the "8AP" engine, the "P" presumably a Paige variation on the 8A engine. About ten years ago I acquired a 1925 Paige 6-70 parts chassis which had the 10A engine, which remains intact as a backup. The 10A looks the same as the 8A, other than improved manifolding. There MAY be internal differences, for example: Couldn't find replacement valves for the 6-66, but a friend acquired a NORS set for me, apparently for a 10A, which had larger 0.375 stems. So we reamed out the guides... Both 8A and 10A use the same gaskets and share the same B&S, 3.75 x 5. For the second A in 8AA or 9AA, it MAY be that it's a variation for another using vehicle whose names begins with that letter--or perhaps for industrial use. I can't speak to the 9A or other versions, but hope someone can. For what it may be worth... :-)

Most likely a broken axle shaft, although a broken u-joint is possible. Since the speedo needle moves, the clutch is engaged and the trans gears are turning.

I am fortunate to own two fairly rare production Pierce-Arrows: a 1930 Model B roadster (134-inch wheelbase, highest body number known = 106, total differently numbered roadsters listed with Pierce-Arrow Society since 1957 = 6), and a 1934 Pierce-Arrow model 840A (8-cyl, 12-cyl is 1240A) Silver Arrow coupe (highest 1934 body number known for both 8s and 12s is 43, at least 5 of these -- by known-to-PAS body number -- were built for 1935, and four are known to have survived into this century). Pierce-Arrow production records were fed to the furnace when the company was liquidated in May 1938. The SA coupe is on a 144-inch wheelbase otherwise used only for 7-p sedans and limousines. The "production" SAs of 1934-35 used conventional P-A front clips and modified (widened) rear fenders. The very famous 1933 SA concept/halo cars (5 built, 3 survive) shared no sheet metal with any production Pierce. The SA coupe was available with or without sidemounted spare wheels; I think the lack of sidemounts shows the wonderful lines much better. Both are regularly toured and driven, 9.000 miles on the roadster since its 2002 acquisition and 12,000 miles on the SA since its 2006 acquisition.

Congratulations to you and the owner! She is a beauty and the embroidered interior is superb!

Thanks, c49er, for the correction; I sold that Suburban long ago! Whatever ratio it was, it made the Suburban (factory ratio 3.9 or 4.11) a much better highway car but required the use of Low Range to get it started even on the level.

Those 8-cyl 3-window business coupes usually came with 3.54 differential gears, the fastest MoPaR set available for the period, and apparently ONLY offered with the 3-window 8-cyl coupe, either Saratoga or NYer. The entire pumpkin will interchange (direct bolt-in) into LWB DeSoto S11 (Suburban and 7-p sedan) and all other standard wheelbase Chrys 8s (but not, I believe, the LWB Chrysler Imperial). Years ago I put a set of those 3.54s into a DeSoto Suburban, replacing the 4.11s, and was able to cruise comfortably at 65-70 mph and did two cross-country runs. But be sure to get the speedometer drive gear matched to the 3.54s from the coupe's transmission at the same time.

Ring break-in on unbored engine: I think you need 500-1,000 miles with some fairly hard driving, such as pulling up a grade at more than half throttle, or if you're in the flatland, accelerate from 25 to 55 fast and hard. Then coast down to 25 and do it again. Do this 20 or more times minimum.

The 'HU' looks like 'HC" -- High Compression -- to me. That does not invalidate Hupmobile as the source. Very small bore, apparently.

Looking to buy parts lists, or photocopies thereof, for 1921-1925 Paige 6-66 and 6-70 (large series). Please PM. Thank you!

Looking to buy parts lists, or photocopies thereof, for 1921-1925 Paige 6-66 and 6-70 (large series). Please PM. Thank you!