Grimy

Glad to be of assistance, anytime. I use modern chassis grease via zerks for spring eyes, drag link, tie rod ends, king pins, and other suspension parts because that lasts, arguably, 1,000 miles vs. the much shorter intervals specified in the manuals when Special Compound or grease cups are used--but then I drive the cars more than *seriously* show them. For serious competition like Pebble or Amelia, by all means put the original fittings back in. If you used modern grease and a grease gun in your all-morning process, that should be good for 1,000 miles.

Beginning with the 1929 model year, Pierces used modern-style zerks with check balls and no longer furnished the earlier push-type dispensers, and used pipe plugs on the steering box fill hole. To save the next mechanic, you might want to put a pipe plug in the steering box filler hole, and save the no-check-ball zerk for Pebble. No check ball meant it overflowed when full, so you wouldn't put too much pressure in the box.

Yes. Pierce was tied to Enterprise Oil Co. in Buffalo, whose trade name for 600W was "special compound." That also made Pierce owners seek factory-authorized service when they couldn't find "special compound" by that name at parts houses.

I'd reinstall the modern zerks next grease job and save the originals for Pebble Beach. The original tool roll (look under the front seat) had an item described as "compressor, grease" which was a pistol grip "liquid grease" dispenser (Liquid Grease being 600W gear oil (or as Pierce called it, Special Compound). One pushes on the pistol grip and the gun dispenses a small squirt of 600W. IMPORTANT: Don't use modern chassis grease or a modern grease gun on the fitting on the steering box! It will blow out the felt seal at the bottom of the steering box. Unscrew the early zerk (has no check ball) and pour in 600W or Penrite steering box lube (latter from Restoration Supply Co. in Escondido, CA) in 900/1200/1500 weights, depending on how much leakage you have. This takes awhile to drain down and burp out air. BTW, use 600W (the dark, smelly viscous stuff from Model T and A Ford vendors, NOT the honey-colored suspected-repackaged SAE 140) in both the trans and the (non-hypoid) differential. I like to leave the diffs 1/2 an inch low due to felt seals around the axle shafts.

"Once you get your radiator cleaned, how much debris can you have?" It's not your old (or clean or new) radiator that produces the debris, it's your cast iron block! Let's say you've just rebuilt an engine and the water jackets are clean and there's a pretty, gray coating on them. Good! But give it 20 or 30 heating/cooling cycles, and that gray coating starts coming off and heads for your radiator, and then the continuing rust of the water jackets recommences, even if you use (and should!) anti-corrosion additives, whether a 50% anti-freeze mix or something else like Penncool (formerly Nalcool). To you scientifically minded doubters out there who have some time on your hands, try a stocking filter for 500 miles. After that period, drain down just enough coolant to set the level below the bottom of your upper hose, remove that hose and the stocking, and examine the stocking. Even if you have a brand new rebuilt engine (except for you Franklin and Corvair owners), I'll bet you find crud in there that would otherwise be building up in your radiator. As Bernie and John348 have pointed out, the best solution is to clean out the water jackets and passages in the block and head. That's a clean start, but the process begins anew as soon as the engine is run again. As to potential clogging, the stocking--or Gano--is NOT an install-and-forget solution. The filters simply trap and hold debris generated within your block that would otherwise be deposited in your radiator and slowly build TOWARD a clogged radiator. For the 15 years I've been doing this (and it's not my idea, nor do I sell stockings), I've never had cooling issues--and most of my cars are known for running hot or overheating. Of course maintenance is important: I chemically flush and replace coolant every three years on a schedule.

Hidden filters are almost necessary if you will be having your car judged. I've never had a blockage with a stocking, water gets thru the mesh just fine. As I said above, remove and inspect and clean after 300 miles, which will give you a feel for when you should conduct the next remove/inspect/clean operation. The more heating-cooling cycles, the more stuff comes loose and is headed for your radiator I used Ganos (earlier versions) for several years, including one hidden inside a hose, before switching to stockings, and switched not because I'm cheap (I am!) but because... 1. Ganos didn't work well on near-vertical upper hoses; the crud dropped back down into the head. 2. In some cars with a long neck/short hose radiator inlet (Pierce 48s and 80s, for example), I didn't have enough space for a Gano. 3. Despite the two traps in a Gano, it didn't catch the really fine stuff that I find in the stocking. Re Matt's #7, PLEASE put in a filter BEFORE running a flushing agent, lest all the stuff the flushing agent knocked loose become deposited in your radiator. As you can tell, after 15 years I'm a believer in the stockings, but not a zealot. Act on what you believe.

For me, the cheapest and best is the toe of a woman's pantyhose. I prefer to use the short ankle-high stockings that women wear with slacks, as they are heavier gauge. Remove top house, push toe into top tank of radiator with a screwdriver HANDLE or other blunt object, wrap selvage around the upper neck, so that water goes thru the mesh. Install before adding any flushing compound. After flushing is complete, use a new stocking because the first one has probably been compromised by the flushing chemicals. After first install, drain off some coolant and check after 300 miles. You will be amazed at the nasty stuff caught which would otherwise be clogging your radiator. To clean, remove and rinse under a hose bib, then reinstall. I've never had one fail on me in service, but I replace when I change coolant every three years.

And it's RHD!

Use an online calculator like this one http://www.advanced-ev.com/Calculators/TireSize/ you may need to determine your diff ratio first. I think the standard ratio was 4.44 but there may have bee deeper ratios offered.

Fram G2 (see thru plastic), Wix 33032 (NAPA carries Wix under their own name and number). If you want a large-capacity 5/16 metal-case filter (especially good for use with gas tanks which have not been removed and cleaned recently), use a larger diameter Fram G3802A--available everywhere, used on many Ford EFI applications. I use a G3802A on vacuum tank-equipped cars, so there's no apparent restriction problem. I write the date replaced on the filter can with Sharpie. If the filter is anywhere near the exhaust, I wrap it with heat resistant material. Since you're using an electric pump, I suggest mounting the filter near the gas tank BEFORE the electric pump. Often there a lateral wood body frame member in front of the tank to which a bracket can be screwed. Plumber's tape is not elegant but works. Place the filter where you can get to it easily on the road to change--and always carry a spare in the vehicle.

The insulation was jute (no asbestos), usually about 1/4 inch thick, often sold in rolls. For repro mats, try the rubber repro vendors plus those specializing in 1930s MoPaR parts,

Fully retard the spark for starting, then advance it all the way and leave it there. With modern gas you don't need to retard for hills unless Ed has worked his magic on that Dual Delco system. Full retard at idle also slows it 'way down to impress bystanders at shows. If the car hadn't been driven in a few months, you might add a rich dosage of Seafoam to the fuel tank to do some internal cleaning--but only if someone has added an inline fuel filter--itself a very good idea.

Fast Eddie, "Uncle George" is a name I'm happy to answer to (I have several nephews and nieces and their offspring); I'm usually called much worse! Actually the 48-B-5 was equipped with oil control rings from the factory, and it's the first year for a thermostat! Speaking of thermostats, Hupp36 please check to see that the car runs at least 150*F at this time of year; if not, check for a failed safe or missing t'stat. Hupp36, suggest you identify the mixture control setting at 40 mph where the engine is smoothest and doesn't lag when you punch it a bit, then add a tad more fuel as a running setting once warmed up.

With great respect for Ed, I must caution against running really rich, as this will dilute the motor oil. A design defect in Pierce dual valve engines, including my "new" 1918, is that there is minimally adequate cooling for the exhaust valves. This condition is exacerbated when cylinders are bored out. The exhaust valves, although small, can get very hot and burn under high speed driving and lean conditions. So yes, we do want them running somewhat rich, but not pouring out black smoke at idle and at light acceleration or cruise. A Best Practice during rebuild of these engines is to sleeve back to standard or even less-than-standard bore, and to chamfer the tops of the bores at the deck to minimize "sharp edges" which would get hot faster. I mentioned in a PM to Chuck the OP that two things to check are (1) the float level as shown by the index mark on the carb bowl sight glass and (2) to ensure that there is some (little) slack in the cable which operates the primer--and that the primer needle and seat are clean and closing properly.

That purple tint is usually confined to the Bausch & Lomb headlight lenses. I'm told it's the effect of UV rays on high-manganese glass.

The thread diameter and pitch, plus the taper, are the most important aspects. You can easily fabricate a new tie rod itself to fit whatever is available that will work on the important aspects. Been there, done that....

And a feeler gauge, I hope! :-)

Thanks! I'll take great joy in telling my Lady Friend that I was right, for once! :-)

Without recourse to references of any kind, I'm guessing 1933-34 Olds. Cadillac V-16s 1934-37 had similar teardrop louvers, but their hoods were WAY longer. The hood handle looks very B-O-P.

If not the pushrods, there is indeed likely something wrong with the valve job. There *was* reasonable compression in #8 before removal, so I doubt it's the head itself. Perhaps check #8 compression again in the cold light of day, sans Wild Turkey... :-)

Perhaps... * an incorrectly seated pushrod * a sticking valve in the guide * a not-correctly-seated valve spring retainer that's dragging on the stem

Highly unlikely that a #8 cam lobe went flat while the head was off (thank goodness!), so some inspection is required. Have you tried watching the movement of the #8 valves while engine is being cranked, and comparing distance traveled to the best cyl (#6)? Watching while engine is being manually turned would be even better. It's gotta be something in the head...

+1 on the nylon stocking toe. I run them in all my old iron. Stuff the toe of the stocking into the radiator top tank thru the upper neck with a blunt object like a screwdriver handle or ratchet handle. Fold the selvage over the outside of the neck. The upper hose holds the stocking material in place. You will amazed at the rust, crud and corruption that will be caught, especially after several heating/cooling cycles.

My 1934 56S coupe is long gone, and I never did install the radio I acquired for it. Memory says it was the same for B-O-P (Buick-Olds-Pontiac) and came in two models: AirChief and AirMate. Don't have any photos, nor do I recall the brand name. The panel for the control head fit neatly into the somewhat-slotted position under the center of the dash below the ash tray, and was bolted to the "curled-under" surface of the dash. You might find some pre-drilled holes there. You might try googling Air Chief and Air Mate.

"Century" designation wasn't used until 1936. In 1934, the 50-60-90 series cars had chrome headlights, whereas the 40 series had painted headlights, as in the OP's photo.