capgage

Second on the molasses. Essential for parts you don't want to blast. I had a friend I recommended this to who had an old radio with a piano hinge. Worked really well for him. I've done it on road wheels. Does NOT take off the chrome, but takes off the rust. Did it on some 65's with center rings knocked out. Only had to rechrome 1 of the 5. Put them on a 58 for a brief time just for fun. Really really good for delicate stuff though. I think if you leave it in too long though, it will outdo its job and start to eat metal. But that takes a LONG time. Like months. Be prepared for the smell though, while not God awful it is very strong and food/grease like and can turn some people's stomachs. And it could take up to a month for the molasses/water to start to ferment. You'll know when the smell comes.

To fix that horn wire right you really need to take out and disassemble the steering column. It's a puzzle. You'll find that the wire is soldered to a brass collar that is likely got a split it in. I got a tip on here, used a copper plumbing fitting to replace it and it worked great. You can install a new wire too while you are at it. I doubt you want to dive this deep in this car though since you are not keeping it original. Could be wrong. The way you are going with this car it would probably be better to install a horn button.

Does Just Dashes do a good job on these? In USA.

PM sent, Pete.

Yeah, but found a little luck on Ebay. I got two, we'll see what shape they are in. One looks good, the other still has a tire on it. So inside should be protected.

Wow - I thought this would be easier. I am going to search for these now. Maybe the yard in Seguin might be frutiful. I think lots of people are not paying attention to this forum anymore, who used to. Some of the main guys if you know what I mean. Hard times.

I don't need these to drive on, I'm putting together a set of rollers for a restoration. Any number will do, 1,2,5 whatever you want to get rid of I'll probably buy. Does not have to have the beadlocker, but has to be Buick with the five slots for clips. Gonna put some old whitewalls and some small hubcaps on. For 58 Buick, I don't care I just want to be inspired by a cool look for all that time I am about to spend putting this 58 Century Conv. together. I've got a few that are heavily rusted and I suspect will have pinholes once blasted. I can always put in an inner tube. But I need a few more.

I've painted around 20 Buick road wheels over the years. Talking about the lobes. What I did was make up some magnet sheets, cut up to cover the chrome ribs, center and surrounding area. Blasted the hell out of the lobes in my cabinet with aluminum oxide. Going on around 10-12 years, not seeing any paint flake off yet. Course the lobe area is sort of rough to begin with, but still they are filled with chrome. So yeah rouging up helps as far as I have seen.

You got creative on this 58.

I now remember clearly Pete Levchik creating this early 2000s. Started as a 4 door sedan. He had obtained also a 49 Olds convertible also which was the most gone car I have ever seen, as a convertible donor. For stiffening the body and who knows what else. Think he planned on using the folding top from that but did not work out. Talked about having to spend big bucks on covering with canvas what he did build up for the top, which was non folding and a take off. He used to love putting the newer Mopar drivetrains into his cars for some reason at that point. His creations were always painted the same color too. If he had had a chance to finish the interior it would have been buckskin leather. This looks just like I remember it the last time I saw it in 2004 or so. Jeez, the driver side pillar is still on the car! Not finished. He did not put money into his stuff, nor keep them original any more than he had to, at that time. He used what he had. Street Rodder. Very talented. He just didn't have time to finish this one. Still, $10K?

Hold on - I think Pete L. in Bynum was doing this car. His last project, doesn't look like he finished.

I think these might be 56 olds 98 convertible seats. Do any of the olds folks on here know? If so, can they fit 1958?

Are these available?

Bill, Thanks so much for sharing that. Now I have a starting point for Sanden. I guess I'll have to buy one and then see what mods I can do to the factory compressor brackets to make it fit. To start with toward getting my after market AC unit to work. Did your 60 use a sealed A5? Or an A6? If it used an A5, how does your Sanden work out with the factory AC brackets?

Sorry guys, should be asking the vendors.

Thanks Ed! Yet another way to preserve metal and refreshing my memory a bit. In my industry, Metal Etch has an entirely different meaning. Car sized machines that process Silicon wafers. Wafers are later sliced into computer chips. Uses way more dangerous chemicals than this.

This compressor, pully, and bracket stuff has been on my mind for years. I have two cars: First: A 1958 41 series (non factory AC). Replaced the 364 (still have it with matching VIN but not rebuilt) with a rebuilt 401 with 59 factory AC setup on the engine only. Takes an A5 Sealed compressor as bolt-in. Will use an underdash unit. Second, being built, is a 58 Century Convertible built in California no AC. 58 364 low mileage engine which I do not intent to rebuild at this point, got all the pulleys and brackets again but this time for a factory AC setup, engine only. Will also use an underdash unit. What is the best way to get a compressor into these? What Sanden model. I am willing to modify factory brackets. Or fabricate. But I don't know nor have done the research as to what Sanden to use. Considered using A6. Someone makes one which will bolt into a Cadillac as a replacement for an A5, but I don't think that would work out very well. From the beginning of this journey to putting AC into these old cars, I figured I would be better starting with factory AC setups as far as the engine. These things changed every year and there are many variables involved in getting it right.

Are the 57 A5s bolted together and hence rebuildable? The 58/59 (and on up to?...) are sealed and not rebuildable. Except I hear a place in Florida can do it for many $$$s. Also, I know that the 58/59s don't bolt to the 57 brackets. Sorry just sharing this random knowledge trying to get a compressor in my 58 with a hanger AC.

How do you Metal Etch?

What's up with the VIN tag?

That's right! Been so long since I thought about it. But now I recall seeing many later model lamp reflectors in white as well, from the factory on various cars I've owned. If that works better than silver paint, then issue resolved. Thanks to both Pete and EmTee's replies. They both helped me sort this and I can move on.

Thanks Pete. I was thinking that any attempts to paint the reflector would not result in as bright a lamp as a proper reflective surface. Chrome is the best thing I can think of, I know I have seen on here where a guy had a local place in Michigan coat his reflectors with the "right" stuff but I don't want to send anything off, yet.

So I've got a lot of exterior parts lined up to take for chroming for my 58 Century. Some are lamp housings. These are chrome plated on the outside in some cases, but all have a reflective plating on them in the lamp area. Should I just get them plated in chrome (would that work OK for the lamps)? Or is it best to find someone to do the special reflective plating. Look forward to hearing the replies on this. Thanks.

Paul, Many thanks for looking at the wheel. I am the point of costly recast or just going with black which I have an excellent one of.

Steve, Those panels look beautiful. I haven't contacted SMS about my interior yet because I haven't decided whether to keep the original paint Reef Coral (pink) with black and white two tone interor. If I may ask, what did you have to send them to get them going on the door panels? I don't think I have enough left to even make up the boards. This car came in very rough shape and I don't have any kick panels unfortunately. Or trunk cardboards. I would love to have the Century 66R to reference, but I would not want to steal any parts from it since it's complete. Plus I don't need another Buick right now! I need to get mine back together.