capgage

I know someone out there knows where to find these!<P>Mark

Anyone know if these are available?<P>I have a beautiful inner fender that I am going to use, but the battery tray is rusted through at the front. The front end won't bolt down because the slot/hole is gone. Usable, but sure would like to replace the tray! It appears to just be spot welded in place, so it's fairly easy to replace (for the non-welder/fabricator) I think.<P>Mark

Scott,<P>Please do not tell me that I have been into 58 buicks for twelve years and never knew that the V was to signify the V-8 engine!<P>Anyone know where I could get some of those V centers? (I know 58 buicks did not use them, but I had this idea for making center caps with them for use with my 64 rally wheels...dont ask!)<P>Mark

I don't know if this helps, but for 1958 I know that cars with power steering had a spacer ring (about 1/8 inch thick) that is installed on top of the (front) driver side coil spring. It takes into account the extra weight of the power steering gear, to level the car. <P>The ring that is on my car has no nylon or rubber, it is just a steel ring. It could be that my ring "lost" the rubber/nylon at some point, leaving only steel. In fact, when I got my car it was *missing* the driver side spring (how does that happen?) and the ring was just sitting in the spring well on the lower control arm. (This car is a 58 Century Convertible, and sat in a leaky barn for twenty or so years, but only lost the floorpans and front seat to rust, the rest is intact. Maybe someone needed a spring at some point. I know the owner was eccentric and made car scuptures and the like, and robbed a few parts from this car.)<P>If your car has power steering, it probably is not missing a ring, but only needs it on the driver side. I learned the purpose of this ring from the chassis manual.<P>Mark

Jim-<P>How did you install this insulation? Did you cut it into pieces slightly larger than, but the same shape as, the exposed area and then work it in? Referencing my 58, it seems to me this material was originally installed before the two pieces of the decklid were assembled and the edges "crimpled" around the perimeter.<P>Did you actually disassemble the decklid?<P>Mark

Thanks, Jim (jezac)!<P>I spoke to Tony with Florida Fasteners and they are looking to see if they have the ones I need, will let me know tonight or tomorrow. Sounds like a small start up outfit with LOTS of fasteners to sell.<P>Forgot to mention in my first post, the fasteners I am looking for are captive nuts, they are rectangular in shape and are mounted to a u-shaped clip. 5/16 coarse thread.<P>Congrats on your rebuild!<P>Mark

Does anyone know a source for these? They are used on the front clip sheet metal I am short several, as I broke them while pulling front clip parts for my '58 century from another donor (now I think I can prevent breakage in the future, but oh well, live and learn).<P>Also, when new are these supposed to have that green protective "primer" on them? I have blasted the ones that I will reuse and discovered the "5613" on them, but they are already turning dark after three days of exposure and I would like to get them coated with whatever the correct coating is (if any).<P>Mark

Come on, guys! I know someone has some ideas on what to do with old rusty body bolts and captive nuts after you blast them. When new, were they that same green color as molding clips? I used to have some primer that was that color, was supposed to be good for rustproofing. Or should I just use them as is after blasting (to rust again?)<P>Mark

Bill,<P>Let me know what you find out. I have the same types of questions on my 58 Century. I will soon be reassembling the front clip and have many bolts to blast and paint (or powdercoat?)<P>By the way, who is doing your powdercoating, and blasting of large parts? I will need to go over my frame and some other large parts at some point, right now I am blasting (in a cabinet) and painting my medium to small parts. I am in Austin, TX. Let me know- I should probably be powdercoating everything...<P>Mark<BR>mschmerbeck@austin.rr.com

Thanks for all the ideas!!!!<P>I have to say, though, that I tried the torch method that Doug suggested and it works GREAT! It's clean (no solvents involved), quick (no multiple applications), and really not that difficult or dangerous if you are careful. I am using the torch method as a first pass (removes 95% of undercoating), followed by a quick cleanup with a varsol-type solvent that is relatively benign as far as solvents go, then blasting in the cabinet. I must say I am very happy with the results.<P>If I ever have more room and isolation from neighborly prying eyes in the future, I may try the stove oil or kerosene-in-the-drum method for some hands-off cleaning. I don't think I will find stove oil (same as heating oil?) in Texas, and my neighbors cats may find their way into an open drum-o-kerosene unless I made some kind of fancy venting hood/lid type of arrangement. Also this type of setup would not be looked upon favorably in an environmentally sensitive area such as the one I live in (Austin, TX Barton Springs Watershed). Can't spill any chemicals here!<P>Thanks again,<BR>Mark<P>PS Doug I haven't forgotten about your nailhead buildup articles...sorry for the delay! I need to complete the copies...

I am blasting and painting the underhood sheetmetal parts on by 58 Century, and some of these (like inner fenders, underside of battery tray) have thick undercoating on them which will not be removed by blasting.<P>I have been using some paint/varnish remover called Kutzit (usually used on wood) and this has helped loosen it up some, but it still takes labor intensive scraping to remove the undercoating, and even then it takes several stages of applying this caustic stuff which burns the skin also if you are not careful.<P>Anyone have any better ideas for doing this?<P>Thanks,<BR>Mark

Jim,<P>That wire is connected to a copper collar down at the lower end of the steering shaft. As you have probably seen, there is a contactor mounted close to the connector for the turning signal wires. This spring loaded contactor connects to the collar and maintaings contact via the spring as surface of the collar slides under it when you spin the shaft.<P>The problem I have seen is that this collar tends to develop a "split" over time, and the horn will cease to work. That is why you often see a "temporary" button mounted somewhere else. I have never attempted to repair this, but I imagine that it would involve removal of the column. I would look for a donor steering shaft if I were you. My 58 Special still has a temporary button, which is not really so temporary!<P>Mark<BR>58 Century Convertible 66C<BR>58 Special 41

I have found it is quite easy to drape a hooked chain around the pumpkin, hook the chain into a loop at a suitable place, then use a comealong between the chain and the rear frame cross member (or bumper, better).<P>This method seems MUCH safer than the bumper jack. Aren't those just for show?<P>You may want to consider removing the gas tank first, though. The comealong cable will be rubbing across it the whole time. But it doesn't take much force to move that rear end once it is loose. Also, you should consider disconnecting the shocks, because they will limit the fore-aft motion of the rear end.<P>Mark<BR>58 Century 66C<BR>58 Special 41

I will be in Seattle this weekend (I live in Texas)...any places (other than Buick Specialists in Kent) that I should visit???<P>Mark<BR>58 Century 66C<BR>58 Special 41

I would love to hear any info anyone has on this as well!<P>Mark<BR>58 Century Convertible

I've never found that WD-40 did anything for me when loosening rusted bolts. It's not really a penetrating oil. But, Liquid Wrench (or that other stuff mentioned above, more expensive) does work well with the overnight soak. Also, before you let it sit, tap the bolt (lightly) head on a few times. You likely will be suprised the next day when the bolt is loose!<P>Mark

Bill,<P>Let me know if you know any good powdercoaters in your area. I am in Austin and I want to do some powdercoating for my 58. <P>From reading your previous posts, I think I have put things together to figure out that I spoke with you briefly, in person, out at Pete Levchiks's a few months ago! You and he were walking around looking for a jack, you were picking up a straight 8 engine, I was there with my brother picking up a hood and some other items and I remember us discussing the "vintage" look of the original ignition wires on that straight 8 you were picking up.<P>If this doesn't ring a bell, then I guess I have the wrong person!<P><BR>Mark<BR>cpq1bpsn@gte.net