capgage

Neil E-<P>Can you tell us more about how they do this (cutting the whitewalls in)?<P>I understand that below the black rubber is white rubber, but how would you remove the black layer so that you would be left with a smooth whitewall? What kind of tool could do this?<P>I have a feeling that the guys at the tire shop would either have a good laugh or look at me like dogs watching a card trick!<P>Mark

Actually, I would be interested in any usable taillamp parts for 58 small series (special, century). But specifically, I need an entire assembly for the left hand (driver) side.<P>Mark<P>Austin, TX

Justin,<P>You and I are thinking the same thing. Last time I was in Mexico (Nuevo Laredo, and yes it was to buy FURNITURE) I went into an Autozone and they were selling the 12oz cans of R12.<P>I didn't buy any, but i WAS wondering if I would get nabbed bringing it back it it was a small amount.<P>You think that really could be propane??<P>Mark

Jim,<P>Would you be willing to trade your two 64 road wheels for a pair of 65's if I can get some? I know a guy here in town who very likely has some (I think I saw some at his yard). I would like to get the 64's if you don't want them.<P>Mark<P>mschmerbeck@austin.rr.com

Your best bet for this car is to find a 58 that has aftermarket add-on air and take the parts from it. The aftermarket add-on's I am familiar with (not the factory add-on) will usually have a large squarish piston-type(not the round "rotary" type) compressor which is more readily rebuilt than the rotary type, which is good. If you can find a car with this type of add-on, there will hopefully be all the pulleys and brackets too. This type of setup runs on a belt that does not touch the water pump. There will be two idler pulleys, each with a bracket, an extra pulley that goes on your harmonic balancer, and of course the compressor pulley which may be a double groove even though you only use one. Also, there will probably be some kind of spacer to move the fan out an inch or two. <P>This aftermarket add-on is much more common than the factory add-on (which I am not as familiar with, but I think it's much like the factory built-in).<P>I have been trying to get an A/C setup together for my 58 for years. I definitely recommend the add-on approach for a four-door sedan. <P>Don't be tempted to get the factory A/C components from another year like 57 or 59, because the brackets and pulley setups are almost completely different even though they may all be on a 364. If you do convert to the 57 or 59 style however, make sure you get ALL the pulleys (balancer & water pump), ALL the brackets (generator, AC, power steering), and the components. I know the generator sits on a bracket for 58 and hangs on one for 59, so they have a different orientation. <P>For 59 there is a dual belt set that runs around the generator/compressor/water pump/balancer. This is on the two grooves closest to the engine. The power steering has its own belt that goes on the third groove and runs around the ps pump/water pump/balancer. <P>But for 58, the inside groove is for the generator/water pump/balancer, the next one is for the ps pump/water pump/balancer, and the next two are a dual belt set for the compressor/water pump/balancer.<P>I think that 57 is similar to 58, but with all different brackets and definitely a different compressor. The compressor is the same for 58 on up to 62 or so.<P>Hope this helps - I know its alot of info, but I thought you could use it since I have spent years sorting it out. Unfortunately I cannot part with any of the 58 and 59 stuff I have collected, because all the parts I have are spoken for between the two 58's I have, and until I get it all together I do not know what will be left over. <P>I do a set of 57 A/C brakets which I think is short one piece, if you are interested.<P>Mark

MartinSR-<P>I didn't know all nailhead distributors interchange, that is good to know. Thanks as always for imparting your knowledge!<P>Mark

Your photos are not showing up for some reason on my browser. Can anyone else see them? They show up as the "torn photo" icon.<P>Mark

Interesting the way these things come together...<P>Robin-<P>I would gladly trade you a stock flexplate from a 65 401 (just needs to have the center bore enlarged, bolts to an ST400) - <BR>for your 59 dynaflow flexplate. I need one but I had not started to search for one yet.<P>Hub-<P>Final funds are in transit!<P>Mark<P>[ 07-17-2001: Message edited by: Mark Schmerbeck ]<p>[ 07-17-2001: Message edited by: Mark Schmerbeck ]

MartinSR-<P>Just curious, what were your reasons for grouping the engines like (264/322) (364) (401/425)? I think I know some reasons, but I would like to hear yours...I know the 401/425's have the same "outside dimensions" for one thing - I am planning on possibly using some 58 (364) AC/alt/power steering brackets on a 63 (401) engine which will go into a 58 with the 58 dynaflow. <P>I am not sure if that is going to work or not but I think it's a good chance it will - we'll see.<P>If not, I have some 401 brackets I can use but they are from a 65 401, so I may have to go to the alternator instead of the generator.<P>Mark<P>[ 07-17-2001: Message edited by: Mark Schmerbeck ]<p>[ 07-17-2001: Message edited by: Mark Schmerbeck ]

Oh My-<P>I just realized that the original message on this thread was from AUGUST 2000!!!<P>Ringger, you went looking way back for this!<P>FYI, the only automatic that this engine will bolt to is a Dynaflow. The seller first thought that the engine was a 65, but it turned out to be an early one from about 63 and I plan to use it with a dynaflow.<P>Sorry! (whew..) Looks like the deal is still on for sure!<P>Ringger-<P>I do have a 401 available for sale that WILL bolt to a non-dynaflow transmission. It is well used, ran when removed, but burns oil. Would be a great core for a rebuild. I am in Austin, TX. Let me know-<P>Mark

Hello Hubbards-<P>This is not the same engine that I am buying, is it? <P>We should be able to close the deal this week on the ~63 401 dynaflow motor - I owe you for the shipping, plus the remaining $50 for the engine.<P>Mark<BR>mark_schmerbeck@amat.com

I had one that came from the factory in my 1978 LeSabre Custom 2-dr. My friend had one that I think came in a Trans Am from the same period.

Ed,<P>Not sure if you sold it yet, but I'll take it for $25!<P>Mark<P>mark_schmerbeck@amat.com

mrbuick714 & lotsabuicks-<P>I have a set of 57 AC compressor bkts (4 pcs total, I think). I got these ten years ago for my 58 thinking they were the same, but they ARE NOT. I wanted to hold onto these, but if we can arrange so I can get the set from that 58 (plus GEN brackets) I would give them up!<P>Let's talk-<BR> <BR>Mark Schmerbeck<P>mschmerbeck@austin.rr.com<BR>mark_schmerbeck@amat.com<p>[This message has been edited by Mark Schmerbeck (edited 04-16-2001).]

Thanks all- I think the bracket I have is an alt & A/C bracket (it accepts the compressor via the two tabs) from a 64 - it has the slot as part of the bracket. I thought this bracket came from a 65, maybe a mid-year change? Anyway, the alternator hangs from the long bolt and the short bolt rides in that integral slot. The bracket is steel, and as Matt points out there is another bracket (actually fastened to the main part somehow) that extends to the rear and mounts to the studded head bolts.<P>If I want to mount a compressor, do I have to get additional bracket(s) to stabilize the rear of the compressor? Unfortunately, I do not have any parts books that go up to 65 to see what it looks like.

With all the this about not being able to find a non-AC 401 alternator bracket, I would think that someone could explain the difference between the AC version and the non-AC version!

I know someone knows better than me the difference between these two...

Does anyone have pictures of these two brackets? I have one that I can't part with, but I don't know which one it is. It is supposedly the AC version, but I can't see how a compressor could be mounted on it without additional brackets. There are two small vertical tabs on top of the bracket; each with a ~ 1/4" hole that I guess would accept horizontally placed bolts.<P>Mark

Justin,<P>Yea, Hub and I have been in touch through my work email. My home email has been receiving messages intermittently all week, apparently there is a HUGE queue of emails on the Austin Roadrunner server.<P>Mark

MARTINSR,<P>Which one of these 400's is the "switch pitch"? <P>I am guessing the ST400 since it has the variable pitch torque converter?<P>Mark

Thanks, Hub.<P>I emailed you on Saturday, not sure if you got it. When you do, please respond to both my emails (home and work) so I can respond to you more timely.<P>Thanks!<P>Mark<P>home mschmerbeck@austin.rr.com<P>work mark_schmerbeck@amat.com

MARTINSR-<P>Thanks for posting that! If only I could go the other way - I have a '65 401 that I want to put in a 58 with dynaflow. I know, can't be done without a crank swap.<P>I am still researching which rear end to put in the 58 to use with the TH400 I have. But the use of the 401 with the dynaflow would conceivably be the "lower cost" (at least in short term) alternative since I am coming up with $1500 estimates for converting to rear end with open driveshaft. <BR>(I would love to do the fabrication myself but I just not have the skill or someone to help me with it at this point. I'm gonna have to learn how!)<P>Just curious - Any takers on doing a trade: a 401 dynaflow crank for my 401 TH400 crank??<P>Then again - why would you want to, when you can just use this bushing! <P>I have heard you also have to do some other machining on the dynaflow crank, so you can swap the dynaflow triangular flex plate for the TH400 geared flywheel. I am under the impression (but have not verified) that the TH400 geared flywheel has a smaller ID than the dynaflow triangular flex plate. So the TH400 geared flywheel would not fit the dynaflow crank without trimming down the OD of the "locator" (boss?) on the dynaflow crank.<P>Mark<P>[This message has been edited by Mark Schmerbeck (edited 02-28-2001).]<p>[This message has been edited by Mark Schmerbeck (edited 02-28-2001).]

Looking for a pair of these, notorious rust traps. These fit Special and Century.<P>Mark

Bill - glad to hear that paint worked out. I meant to check last night, but I am guessing that the "ford green" cans I have are the Krylon #2114.<P>I guess you had some mixed from a sample. Have fun! I am thinking I will do a day trip to pick up some other parts very soon, so I will call you.<P>Mark

I found the same thing.<P>Try <A HREF="http://www.parrautomotive.com" TARGET=_blank>www.parrautomotive.com</A> <P>That's the one.