capgage

Max,<P>A bit wet too in Dickinson, huh? I was in Houston (Pearland) last Saturday and it rained all day.<P>You will need to hook up a comealong to somehow pull the rear axle back while you line up the block with the cross member. The tendency is for the axle to be pulled forward by the springs.

i'm 33 - my cars are 44

-edited- (decided not to go on a rant...)<p>[ 07-18-2002: Message edited by: Mark Schmerbeck ]

one more thing - just take the dimensions off your transmission. If you get it right, the rear end will sit nicely in the center of the wheel wells just like it is supposed to.

Max,<P>I have done this on my 58 - it should also work on your 57. What you need to do is make a "mock up" of your transmission. I used a treated piece of 4 x 6 lumber. Took some measurements, used a hole saw (and some extra chiseling) on the end, and when I was done I was able slide the splines into the end of the block, use four lag bolts to bolt the torque tube to the block, and use two more lag bolts to connect the tranny crossmember to the side of the block. Worked like a charm. I wish I had the measurements with me, since I have to do this again for another 58.<P>I am sure there are many other clever ways to do this (like welding some I-beam or angle iron together) but for me it was easiest to just use wood. One word of advice that is obvious but I'll say it anyway - don't depend on that rear axle to sustain any serious jars! This method should just stabilize the rear axle for loading and unloading from a trailer, or for manually pushing the car around.<P>Let us know how it goes - <P>Mark

Bill,<P>I say go for it - it is not that difficult. Just make sure you are careful and note where any springs and bb-like check valve balls fall out. Though nothing should fall out as long as you keep the carb upright when you pull the two halves apart.<P>One more thing - I am referring to a Rochester Quadrajet, not sure if there is such thing as a Carter "quadrajet" though I am quite sure there were Carter 4-barrel carbs.

Skyking,<P>Cool! What kind of bubble balancer do you have? I have some freshly painted red steelies with wide whites mounted, they are just waiting for a balance. I can't stand the thought of putting weights on the outside of these fresh wheels.<P>Mark

That's the Coats model. There are a few on ebay, looks like by the time bidding ends the prices are over $100.

PackardV8,<P>Do you find that the static balancing (via bubble balancer) is as good as a spin balance, which would provide both a dynamic and static balance?<P>Or maybe that's a myth designed to get us into the tire shop waiting line... <P>I have always wondered at the prospect of being a DIY'er in this arena - now I am on ebay looking for bubble balancers and possibly tire changers (though you don't need a changer as long as you've got the tire irons, big enough hammer, patience, grease, and elbow grease, right?)<P>Mark

PackardV8,<P>Do you find that the static balancing (via bubble balancer) is as good as a spin balance, which would provide both a dynamic and static balance?<P>Or maybe that's a myth designed to get us into the tire shop waiting line... <P>I have always wondered at the prospect of being a DIY'er in this arena - now I am on ebay looking for bubble balancers and possibly tire changers (though you don't need a changer as long as you've got the tire irons, big enough hammer, patience, grease, and elbow grease, right?)<P>Mark

Ed,<P>If you find out let me know! I am going to blast each of the ones I have and reuse them. (Got myself some needle nose vise grips, blast them one at a time in the cabinet. Very labor intensive)<P>Then I plan on enclosing them in a wire mesh cage, and having them plated somewhere. Either cadmium if I can find someone that will do it, or I guess zinc would do.<P>You can get the bolts themselves (with the recessed heads) from CARS or elsewhere, but the square washers just don't seem to be available. They came originally as captive washers anyway I guess, already threaded onto the bolt? Modern day body bolts would work, but the look just would not be right.<P>Mark<BR>58 66C<BR>58 41<P>Mark

<p>[ 02-17-2002: Message edited by: Mark Schmerbeck ]

I too buy mine at a local farm supply, it's kind of like an auto parts store except it's for farm equipment. Apparently some tractor uses this same battery, because they always have them. They are Interstate batteries. It may not have the correct "Delco" logo or whatever, but it fits perfectly in the long skinny tray and the terminals are in the right place. <P>These places tend to be more like your old fashioned auto parts store in many ways than the car freshener stores.<P>Mark

"What a shameful end to the beautiful styling of the 55,56,and 57 Buicks"<P>Well, I would say that the end of the 55-56-57 styling era was the 57! So don't look at the 58. The 58 is a different styling, I'll give you that (but only on the outside)...<P>So if you like 58's, then I suppose you would say that the ugly 59 was a shameful end to the beautiful styling of the 58?!?!?!<P>I think that most of us love them all! And maybe each individual should just not talk about the ones he likes less.

"1958 Buick styling was totally tasteless and ugly" - riiiight.<P>I guess since you said "was" instead of "is"...I shouldn't feel foolish in your eyes for wasting time restoring my 58 66C then?! <P>Come on, now! Why would you go trying offending us 58er's like that?? And after seeing those incredible photos! (or did you look - please tell me you looked.)<P>Though I have heard people refer to 58's as ugly - and it was intended to be a compliment. I choose to take your opinion that way.<P>

A big thanks to Kris Trexler for creating that website with all the pictures (and to Reatta Man for the heads up) - now I have reference pics for how my 58 should look, down to the colors in the engine compartment and all...wow<P>I bet that car goes for at least 3x the estimate.. it should.

Go to Pep Boys - they sell a x-large cover that covers my 58 century well, probably would work for your cat too. ~$100, very nice, heavy "waterproof" (water tends to run off in beads, but will soak eventurally) material, about 1/8" thick - this cover has the appearance and function (as far as I know) of all the nice car covers I have seen for several hundred more. Definitely much nicer than the variety you may find at say Wal Mart. I've had mine for 5 years, used it indoor and out, and it's still very nice except for the areas that have been stressed from sitting sharp corners, etc. - these areas are still intact, but are no longer waterproof.<P>No zippers or pockets, but inexpensive...it does have eyelets for running a cable lock under the car.

Joe,<P>Did you get my pictures of the 15" wheel with the 4.75" bolt pattern?<P>Mark<p>[ 01-08-2002: Message edited by: Mark Schmerbeck ]

Joe,<P>Sorry, that WAS my typo. I meant to say 4.75", not 4.5". In any case it is the small bolt pattern, which is what you want and it is definitely a 15" Buick chrome wheel with the semigloss black lobes. In this context (60's & early to late 70's buick chrome wheels), there are only two bolt patterns that I know of - the 5", and the 4.75".<P>Mark

Joe,<P>I have one 15" rally wheel with the 4.5" bolt pattern. It has a dent which could be straigtened out, otherwise it looks really good. It's yours if you will pay the shipping, it should be about $20 to ship one wheel.<P>If nothing else, this wheel should be a good reference for you so you will know what you are looking for. Or you could use it for the spare.<P>Mark<BR>mschmerbeck@austin.rr.com

what - getting old, or having the leak???

Hi Brad,<P>Did you get a chance to check on the rear convertible seats? $?<P>I'm still interested-<P>Mark

You can also do this (which I have done) - replace the top metal piece (which is covered in vinyl), and front of the dash (the thick padded piece), with a metal three-section (left, middle, right) unit that you can paint dark turquiose. I think that is the factory name for the dark green you are referring to. <P>If you go this route, you have to remove a long bracket from the top of the dash that the front pad bolts to. It is held on with tack welds. You will see what I am talking about when you start taking it apart. Otherwise the metal pieces will not fit on. Also, I think the A-pillar trim pieces are different and you should change them out too.<P>This metal dash is correct for Specials, but I think all Centurys have the padded one. <P>For a good example of what the metal dash looks like, see this link. You will not find pictures of it in the shop manuals. <BR> <A HREF="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=598649470&r=0&t=0" TARGET=_blank>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=598649470&r=0&t=0</A> <P>By the way, this looks like a very cool car even though it's "bottom of the line" - coral (pink) 58 special 2-dr hardtop, 3 speed manual! It's an unrestored original, so it's on the expensive side. Looks like it has a radio delete plate, and no cutout in the dash for a clock!?<P>Whitewalls are too wide too <P>Mark

Does anyone know if Brad's seats (specifically the rear) would work in a 58 century convertible? Both of my rear springs are rotted/rusted beyond repair. I do have good rear seat springs from a Special 2-dr sedan that I was thinking I might could "cut down" for use in the convertible, but I don't yet know if that will work.<P>Brad,<P>what condition are they in?<P>Mark

The size should be 7.60 - 15's for Century.<P>For bias ply: Unfortunately Coker does not seem to have the US Royal tire in that size (that's my favorite as far as looks go), but the Coker classic is there for that size and looks just like a US Royal without the label. If I remember right they do have Firestone and BF Goodrich in that size.<P>I think the width is correct as long as it's between 2" and 2-14", but even though that is correct I think I will get the 3" ones when I buy them because they look so good to me.<P>The Special models had 7.10 - 15's, with 7.60 - 15's as some kind of option.<P>The large series (super, roadmaster, limited) had 8.00 - 15's<P>All this info except the whitewall width is from the Chassis Service Manual, the whitewall width is from some other post on this board.<P>Mark<BR>58 Century 66C<BR>58 Special 41<p>[ 11-24-2001: Message edited by: Mark Schmerbeck ]