Fred Rawling

I have some. If you still need them, e-mail me. frawling@bristolhomeloans.com

I believe you can buy a shop manuel from bobsautomobilia.com. He has an on line catalogue. This is not like a shop manuel for a newer car but it does get you to the right place. It sounds like the carburetor float needel is not seating. Try polishing it or laping it in with tooth past or fine metal polish. Also, recoat the float with modern fuel proofer. The new gas may have eaten the varnish off the old float. The fuel system was gravity feed from the vacuum tank. Try reducing the fuel pump pressure.

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/1927buicks/?yguid=91167445 This is a good web sight for information on early Buicks. Even though it is entitled 1927 Buicks there is information that will help you.

There is an article by David Ware Chambers written in the March/April 1971 issue of Antique Auto Magazine. It has a lot of information on early Buicks to 1930. This is not a restoration guide but generally interesting and usefull information. I can make you a copy if you would like. The last time I made one I think it cost about $1.75 with postage. If you are interested, let me know at frawling@bristolhomeloans.com and I will count the pages and figure the postage. It costs me 3 cents per page to copy it. Fred

Try Egge Machine in Santa Fe Spings, Ca.. Also Bobs Automobilia had some used ones a while back. All that Failing, e-mail me and I will see if I can find a good used one in my stuff. frawling@bristolhomeloans.com

I have the Fisher Body Parts book for 1928 Buick. There are no chains on any of the window operators. Sorry to disapoint you but now you know that they are not similar.

I have a 55 Special dynaflow in pieces. It is in Bellflower, Ca.. Is any one interested in the whole package or parts?

I tried to sent you a picture of some antena parts that I have from a 55 Special. Your e-mail on the message board would not go through. Send me an e-mail at fredrawling@verizon.net if you are still looking for the parts.

The intake is a 2 barrel. I also found the back window for this car. $25.00 if any one is interested.

The best solution is to have the rims shot peened to strengthen them or what ever shot peening does. That was the concensus from the last discussion and from another article that I read about using radials on older rims. That said, I have about 50,000 miles on my 1950 roadmaster with 735R15 with out doing the shot peening. All of the rims were in excellent condition when I made the change. I got tired of the bias plys following the ruts in the road and I like the bigger looking tires on the car.

You should put your request on the Buick Club forum also. I would recomend that you buy the new one. If you find a used one, you will probably have the same problem again. The new ones are made with better metal composition than the original manifolds.

I will check on the intake manifold tonight. I sold the engine to some guy about 4 years ago and he never picked it up. I guess I can do something else with it after all that time The wheels listed above are 4 3/4 bolt diameter and 3 1/16 inch center hole diameter. They have some nice looking G78-14 tires on them which will go with them if anyone wants them.

All 4 doors from a standard series 4 door sedan. They have some rust pits in the outside but look to be pretty straight. The wood is gone. The hinges are there. $10.00 each. Pictures by e-mail

I also have a late 35, to 37 right pick up door for $15.00.

I need to clean up the yard for the city. Any offers?

Frank, I have not been able to find my brake parts books. Everything is in a big jumble because I am trying to clean up the yard because I have a notice from the city. Fred

If they are the same as the 64 dynamic 88, I have a set of good drums. I think that they are 2.5 inches wide. If you are interested, I will dig them out and give you the exact measurements and amount of wear. fredrawling@verizon.net

You can buy a new one from bobsautomobilia.com

Is this a bulk sale or are you looking for customers who want only enough plugs for their cars? Can you post some ball park prices?

I will look them up and let you know. It may take a couple of days. Fred

I have Frame # 293. It has the brake and other handles attached on the right side, gas tank straps, and a few other levers and rods. There are a couple of cracks in the frame. I think it is worth $150.00. What do you think? Anyone interest or have the rest of the car to sell?

Guffin, I tried a an Anod in the cut out on my 1928 Buick and I am not getting good results. I copied the set up that they sell for early Ford V8s. The Ford with the positive ground uses a Diod. I figured that with the negative ground, I needed an Anod so I bought one with the same value as the Ford Diod. My car worked fine with the cut out relay but when it went out and they wanted $75.00 for a replacement one, I tried the modification. Do you have any ideas that will help me on this?

When you crank it by hand, be sure that the ignition is off if all you want to do is crank it over to loosen it up. To start with the crank, remember not to grasp the handle of the hand crank with you thumb on one side and fingers on the other side. Keep your thumb nest to the fingers so if it back fires, you will not get a broken thumb. Keep you head out of the way also.

Nice clean dash for a 4 cyl 1918 Buick $20.00 plus shipping. Best to e-mail me at fredrawling@verizon.net

I have 4 @ $5.00 each fredrawling@vedrizon.net