Fred Rawling

Body Service manual for all GM cars. $15.00 post paid USA. Cheaper than the book dealers sell it for.

Body service manual for all GM cars. $15.00 post paid USA. Cheaper than the dealers sell them for. frawling@bristolhomeloans.com

1977 Oldsmobile Service Manual for all series. Very good condition with no greasy pages, no dog eared pages and not yellowing from age. $30.00 post paid USA. Listed for $39.95 on the web sight of one of the old car book dealers frawling@bristolhomeloans.com

The last powersteering hose that I needed was for a 77 Olds. The ones at the auto parts store did not fit. The bend in the metal ends was wrong. I finally went to a hydrolic hose place and had them put a hose on my ends. I do not remember how it happened but the finished hose had metal shavings in it. It is a good thing that I blew it out before installing it.

After reading the comment by buicksplus, I had a thought that maybe your waterpump impeller is rusted out and not pushing enough water. I mentioned previously in this post that slowing the water down does not make the engine run cooler. My information also came from an engineer who wrote an article in Skinned Knuckles magazine. These cars ran without overheating when they were new. If it over heats, something is wrong and adding fans and washers etc while they may cure the syntoms, they are not fixing the problem causing the overheating. I have driven the 1928 Master over 85,000 miles since I got it and have never had a problem on 50 mile trips. Years ago I took the 1927 Standard on a 2 1/2 hour trip and did not have an overheating problem in either direction.

It may be a good idea to find another electrical shop and have them check out your generator. They may have a different idea of what your problems is.

The hub cap is 1926 and 1927. The lugs are 1926, 1927, and 1928. As mentioned above, the diameter of the fellow is 1/2 inch smaller than the wheel size, ie, a 21 inch wheel has a 20 1/2 inch fellow diameter. The master wheel fellow measures 3 inches side to side (thickness) and the standard measures 2 5/8 inches. This is not a rear wheel from a Master. I can not tell if it is a front wheel or rear wheel from a standard without seeing the bearing or without seeing the hub with the hubcap removed. If it is a front wheel from a master, the fellow will be 3 inches wide.

If you can not print it out or reade it e-mail me and I will send you a copy frawling@bristolhomeloans.com I tried to print it and it came out too big. If anyone can tell me how to get the attachment on so it can be printed, please do so. Fred

2nd page

Someone on one of these forums asked about freeze plug dimensions. I finally found the information and attached it here. I am sending one page on this post and one on the following post mostly because I do not have time to figure out if I can put them together here.

On my 1935 Ford, I got adaptor rings, some time ago, which allowed me to mount the sealed beams inside the headlight shell behind the original glass. Have you thought about 32/50 or 50/50 candle power bulbs. It may be worth a try instead of the trouble of adapting sealed beams.

Try it on the inside door handle to see if it fits and let us know. If it is for the door handle, why is the bottom part of the tool pointed where it would go against the upholstry? It is not for the water pump. From 1924 -1935, the water pump had a hex packing nut.

The trunk on my 1935 had a liner. It was made of what looked like cardboard or tar paper about 3/16 inch thick. It had a texture on the inside surface.

The #824735 cap is correct. Is the distributor body warped. Also is there rust around the inside of the distributor body?

It probably runs better with the freeze plug out because it sucks in more air and less exhaust gas. Forget the oil gambit. If the bearings are too tight, shim them to the proper .002 clearance. Jack the front of the car up, put it on blocks and pull the pan. You have to remove the cover on the front of the flywheel housing to get out the rear pan bolts. A 1/4 drive socket set with a long extension helps. You can probably get a piece of cork at the craft or hardware store to make a new pan gasket. I have made up pan gaskets out of remnants and joined the pieces at 45 degree angles using yellow weather strip adheasive and they did not leak. Just remember not to use the weather strip adheasive on both sides of the gasket. Use permatex # 2 on one side so you can get the pan off the next time it it necessary.

So, what part is "shot"? Or, does it just not work. If the die cast top is not broken, I can tell you how to make it work again. Fred Rawlin

You have to remove the water pump and the distrubutor. It helps to put a paint line on the outside of the distributor where the roter is on # 1 cylinder. I also remove the coil. Get everything out of the why. I guess you could leave the distributor in but it is more weight and I was always afraid of banging it and damaging it so I removed it. When you get the distributor out of the way and all the rods to it out of the way, loosen the 3 bolts that go into the generator from the front of the engine. The fit is very tight. There are places between the front of the generator where it meats the engine where you can pry with a bar or screw driver to work the distributor loose. You can also pull from the rear of the distributor. Make sure that when it comes loose, that you rotate the generator shaft as you pull the generator out so that the gear on the generator that meshes with the timing gear unwinds from the timing gear and does not catch on the timing gear and shave off part of the timing gear tooth. You may have to remove the oil cooler also. I do not remember. What I do remember most is that it is tought to get out and the less stuff in the way, the easier it is to do the job.

My opinion is that if you expect to drive the car for a while, you should do the job right and pull the crank, have it trued up and not go for the quick fix. You can use the later inserted rods in your engine.

I do not know if this guy is still around but if you have not found the rings, it is worth a stamp to see if he is still in business. The last time I bought something from his was 1987. And, he was not that old. He had a warehouse full of engine parts and his prices were reasonable. Lester Harris, Rt 3 2763 E. Valley Rd., Minden, Nevada 89423

If you have vacuum at the place on the heat riser where the pipe to the exhaust manifold valve would be installed, you probably have a hole in the heat riser tube. Because the heat riser is a circuit from the exhaust manifold valve throuth the heat riser and back into the exhaust manifold, it could be that you are sucking in extra air and exhaust gas into the intake manifold. Even with your freeze plug installed, you could pull in exhaust gas from the connection to the exhaust manifold. It is not hard to pull the heat riser and check it out. I still think that checking the clearance on the rod bearings would be a good idea based on your statement that the engine seems to be running better (wearing in the bearings). I subscribe to a magazine called Skinned Knuckles. There have been several articles and comments by engineers and physicists about water going too fast though the radiator. Their conclusion is that slowing the flow of water through the radiator does not allow the water to collect more heat. Also, the purpose of the thermostat is not to slow the water down. It is to heat the engine up to operating temperature faster.

Does anyone have an original unmolested 1928 small series car? I would like to know if the insert on the dash is painted black or wood grained.

I noticed that you were looking for the exhaust diverter valve. Is that missing or perhaps the valve is frozen partially closed and is sending too much heat back through the intake and restricting the exhaust.

Ask the rebuilder how he set the rod bearings. I have seen new engines with 1 1/2 thousands clearance over heat. The book says 2 thousands. You might consider checking the timing and valve clearance again.

If you are interested, itg is best to e-mail me at frawling@bristolhomeloans.com for a quicker response.

2 rims for 6 cyl Nash 1922-1924. 33 x 4 which is 25 inch. 5 clamps, Kelsey Hayes # 170. $20.00 each plus shipping