Fred Rawling

Thanks, I will check it right now. My 73 caprice with a 400 had the dwell at 33 degrees. I was going to set the Buick at that until I could find the correct dwell tomorrow. If anyone does know the setting, I would rather finish it tonight. Fred

I mixed up the wires while changine the distributor cap. Can anyone give me the firing order and dwell? Fred

I mixed up the wires changing the distributor cap. Can any one give me the firing order and dwell for a 1972 445 engine? Fred frawling@bristolhomeloans.com

I need help. I mixed up the wires changing the distributor cap and I can not find a manual. Can anyone give me the firing order and dwell? Fred

Can anyone give me the fireing order and dwell on a 72 Electra 455 engine. I mixed up the wires changing the distributor cap. frawling@bristolhomeloans.com Fred

I tried that on my 1928 and it did not seem to work. Can you tell me what part number you used and anything else about the installation. Fred frawling@bristolhomeloans.com

I forgot how to polarize the cut out. Anybody on line now that knows how? Fred

Tony is about ready to cast these steps. Anyone interested should contact him as soon as possible. Fred

Jon, I was always afraid that removing the screws from he die cast piece in the ventri would cause it to break. I always glued a piece of sand paper to a stick and sanded it down while it was still in the venturi. What was your experience with them breaking?

The photo posted by Leif is what the 1927 and 1926 Buick hubcaps look like. They are made of Aluminum and are NOT plated. The inside diameter of the standard hubcaps is 3 1/4 inches; the master is 3 3/8 inches diameter. You can get beat up hub caps with pipe wrench marks for around $5.00 at most of the swap meets. Really nice ones hardly ever show up. When they do, they are usually over $25.00. I have a copy of an article that appeared in Antique Auto magazine several years ago which describes how to restore aluminum hub caps by making a mold to use as a backing so you can dap out the dents. If you want a copy, send me your e-mail address. frawling@bristolhomeloans.com Fred

If the casting is in good condition, you can get rebuild kits for the pump with modern diaphram material. They are pretty easy to rebuild. Fred Rawling

One additional thing: My understanding is that the wood on these steering wheels was formed under heat and pressure. If that is the case, duplicating one exactly will be very difficult. Fred

FROM THE 1930 MASTER PARTS BOOK: The steering wheel is the same for all 4 cy. cars from 1922 to 1924 PART NO. 170800 except the 1923-model 39. That does not mean that a steering wheel from another year would not fit on your steering column. From 1924 on the 6 cyl. cars had a different spark and throtle lever arrangement and you would have to make serious modifications to use one. The 1923 6 cylinder and earlier cars used the same type spark and throttle lever arrangement. My opinion is that if you can not find a 1922 - 24 4 cyl. steering wheeL, it would be better to replace the wood in the one you have. 1922 Illustrated parts book gives # 151574 for the 4 cyl steering wheel. 1924 Illuarated parts book gives # 170799 for the 4 cyl. steering wheel. Fred Rawling Bellflower, CA

Send me an e-mail with an updated list. I may have some of the items you need. frawling@bristolhomeloans.com

You might try buying a modern made cut out relay and transplanting the guts into your case. I tried on my 1928, which has only a cut out relay, to put in an anode after I found that they wanted $85.00 for a cut out relay. I did not have a chance to really see how it works before I started the engine rebuild. Maybe someone else could elaborate more on that subject.

Tony Weiss in Duval Washington is working on reproducing the fender steps and bumper steps for the above cars. contact him at weissduvall@aol.com if you are interested

Tony Weiss in Duval Washington is working on reproducing the fender and bumper steps for these cars. If you need one, contact him at weissduvall@aol.com for more information.

My love is my 1935 96C convertable coupe. My first old car was a 1927 Standard 4 door sedan. That led me to oovet a 1927 Convertable coupe and I spent a lot of time looking at the picture in 70 years of Buick. Last year one droped on my door step without any effort from me. It is in pieces but it is a 27 54CC. I believe that I am quite fortunate. I am still looking for a 1922-1924 SD4, a 4 cyl truck. I had one but a condo project in a bad real estate market forced me to let it go. I am interested in one in any condition.

The 1934 and 1935 Ser 40 engines were the modern type with the distributor in the side of the block rather than run on the generator and the Ser 40 had a down draft carburetor. The 50, 60, & 90 Series engines were the old style with the generator on the side of the engine run off the timing gear and the distributor in the back of the generator, then came the waterpump run off the back of the generator. They had updraft Marvel carburetors.

I have the new running board rubber for a 1935 Ser 90 under our bed with my Wife's approval. Beat that one!!!

Try this web sight for more information: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/1930buicks/

I have the wheel wedges for $1.00 each, as many as you want. They are for 1926 to 1928 Buicks, all series. frawling@bristolhomeloans.com If your wheel bolts are in bad shape e-mail me or call me at (562) 644-4670 and I will tell you how I fix them. Most are fixable. Remember that the wheel bolts are there to hold the wheel wedge on, they are not supposed to be used to pull the rim onto the fellow. That is how the threads get stripped. Be sure that the rim is tight against the back of the fellow before you tighten the nuts. Also you should check the run out on the tire with a pointer mounded on a stand. You can correct the run out by tighten or loosening the wheel bolt nuts. Above all remember that overtightening the nuts WILL strip the threads on the bolt.

Regarding the die cast piece in the venturi of the carb: There should be a .005 to .003 clearance between the die cast piece and the flapper. If you do not have the clearance, the flapper will not close properly and the car will run but not as well if it closes. The best bet is leave the die cast piece alone. If you try to remove it, it WILL break and there are no replacements available. I have one with cracks in it and it has lasted for over 84,000 miles that I put on the car. Remove the flapper and with a piece of sand paper glued to a thin flat stick, sand down the face of the die cast piece. Re fit the flapper and check the clearance with the flapper closed. Do this until you have the proper clearance. I did not go to the trouble of pluging the heat pipe from the manifold to the carburetor. I just set the valve in the exhaust open all the way and left the linkage to it on the shelf in the garage. I am in California with warmer wheather than you probably have and the car runs good. As mentioned above, set the idle wheel with the notch one turn open to the post thatsticks down from the bottom of the carburetor. That spring on it looks like a good idea. I have had my valve stem work out and fortunatly fall on the splash apron where I found it when the smell of raw gas caused me to stop. I wired mine with a strand from stranded copper wire to keep it from unscrewing. Some carburetors had a clamp that attached to the wheel of the idle valve to keep it from working out. Open the air valve so that the top is even with the end of the spring on the side of it. That lets the car start. The valve on the bottom is for idle only. Set the carb to run using the air valve. Be sure that the car is well warmed up. Drive is around a bit. Then, I screw the air valve out until the car falters. Screw it back in counting the turns until the car picks up speed. Open the valve half the turns you just counted. From this point pull the accelerator rod back fast to rev up the engine. If it falters, richen the mixture (turn it in one or 2 turns and try it again). When the engine will rev up when you pull back the accelerator rod you have it set for good pick up when you start from a stand still. Also, if, from the middle point between stalling and acelerating, the engine does not falter when you pull back the accelerator rod, try one or 2 turn out on the air valve knob. Fred

First, in 1924 Buick made 4 Cyl. engines and only one size 6 cyl. engine which was a Master. If you have a 6 Cyl. it is a master. The intake manifold on the 1924 6 Cyl. is a square tube. On 1925 it is round. In 1925 through 1928, the standard engine had the water outlet on the front of the head. The Master engine had a 3 foot water tube mounted on the top of the head.

1915 to 1918 frame numbers are located on an oval tag on the chassis under the left headlight. 1919 to 1922 are on an oval tag on the rear of the chassis on the left by the gas tank. The frame numbers for 1916 run from 144717 to 254501. There were 2 wheel bases for 1916: 130 inches and 115 inches. The 130 inch wheel base was dropped in 1917.