The Old Guy

Tommy, as much as I enjoyed your picture, you just might be wrong. The older Buicks had 4,4-1 rear axle ratios, and contunued 70 MPH on the interstate will cause them to run hot. They did not have the type of roads back then to run that hard,so they geared the cars for mostly high gear acceleration and running 50-60MPH

This is an old number:706-866-4875 His address is : Hundley Acuff 1423 Wilson Rd. Rossville GA 30941

You might want to check out :WWW.V8buick.com They have a group that is more into the modified Buicks than this board.

Our news caster just said that some of them were stolen, and he was standing in front of what appeared to be a 40 ford Sedan. They just flashed on the car, so don't quote me.

This is a chance for every member to have a say in how our club is run! If you do not take the opportunity, and then feel the board is not doing what you think it should, it is YOUR FAULT!!!

1603 Ford green is almost a perfect match, and can be found at most stores.

If you engine is a stick (which I assume it is) you will have to remove the flywheel to get at two of the bell housing bolts. The only way to remove the flywheel is to remove the flywheel bolts, as the flywheel must slide straight down. The flywheel bolts can only be removed by pulling the pan and removing the rear main cap. After removing the main cap, you can rotate the flywheel and take out the bolts. What are you going to do to the engine? I have a BIG engine stand,and if I do not have to remove the crank, I bolt the bell housing to the stand and leave the whole unit on the back.

The info provided by Stude 8 is correct. The stainless rings can be removed without damaging them by carefully working them with wide screw drivers. The trick is to move things VERY slowly and take your time. i had a 32 90 series for years,and removed the trim rings with no problem

The shafft is pressed into the sprocket inside the housing. I used a stack of washers and a nut to remove mine. Just stack the washers until you can just start the nut, tighten the nut until you run out of threads, remove the nut and stack and repeat until the shaft comes free. When you reinstaal the shaft ,be VERY careful toalign the serrations so the shaft will stay in place.

Sid; I have one that I used in my 73 Riv,which I sold a few years ago. If you are going to Helen GA for the BDE national ,I will give it to you there . This may be considered a partial payment for the tow in Canada last year. If you are not going to Helen, I will have it for you in Flint. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

AK Buickman, Thanks for bringing this up. I have experienced the same thing, and just forgot!! It is HE** to get old, but I guess it beats the alternative. Wildcatr, The high volume pump should give you more pressure at idle, so if you feel you need it ,go to it!!

The oil pump replacement will probably not help your pressure . The usual cause of low oil pressure in the 455 is excess bearing clearance. If you have a guage instead of an idiot light ,you will usually find that the pressure comes up to acceptable levels when under motion( the RPM goes up ) The 455 needs only 10 lbs. of pressure for every 1000 RPM so if you have 25PSI at 2500 RPM ,the engine will live for a long time. If you are going by the light, put in a can of STP, which is a viscosity improver, and the light wil usually go out at idle. If you see the light while driving down the road, you REALLY have a problem

Yes!! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

I have a 1967 Corvair coupe, that has just 58,000 actual miles that I would consider trading. It is a plain jane three speed manual with no options. It even has a radio delete plate. I got it in a trade,and really do not need it. If you are interested at all, let me know.I am sure we can come up with a deal satisfactory to us both. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

You might check the firing order, and also check the distributor cap for signs of cross firing. It may also be wires that are cross firing. Wait until it is dark ,and open the hood,start the engine, and see if you have any blue sparks jumping anywhere. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

The BCA preformance division race will be Friday July 25th from noon to 4PM. We are hoping for a good enough turn out that we will be able to have 2 brackets and a ladies race. The cost will be $25 per car and driver. Additional passengers and Spectators will be $5per person. It is hoped that all participants will pre-register to give us some idea of the amount of cars coming,as the track needs a count to figure the number of employees to work.At the last performance division race in Indiana, we had a variety of cars: a 1941--2 55s--and a half dozen or so in the 60s.It was an interesting day and everyone had a ball. We also had quite a few GNs and GSs that ran in the low 9s. (that really sounds wild until you hear that it was a 1/8 mile track . It would be greatly appreciated if anyone planning on attending therace would pre-register. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" />

I think the choice was a good one! Baker has improved in the last year, which was a learning year for them, and is giving us a magazine we can be proud of. The quality is excellent, and the lead time is great. It is nice to see what is happening in our Buick world without having to wait 3 months <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />.

I believe your Buick has a 364 engine. Pontiac had a 389. I am surprise that the Edelbrock carb does not fit, as it is almost a direct copy of the AFB

Brian, If your ring gear is bolted on then you can interchange with any Buick from 1940 to 1955. The only exception is the 90 series. Most v8s with dynaflow had 3.31 --3.42--3.6 ratios. Any one of them will work . If you want to make a stoplite racer out of it ,you can install the 4.4 from a 1940. The only problem with that is it makes your Buick REALLY thirsty, and limits you to 55-60 on the highway <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

www.TAPERFORMANCE.com has new ones www.v8buick.com should have a used one

The answers you received on the AACA board are right. Either the 2 1/2 or 2 3/4 are right for your car <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" />

I ran the Hot Rod power tour in 2001 in my 37 Buick street rod ,and found that the best book to show route 66 is the one by Tom Snyder. he has directions to find all the road, even the different alignments they made through the years. It is a GREAT TRIP!!! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" />

Contact Mike & Nancy Book at the BCA national office. They have judging manuals available.

There is onr more thing that should be checked if you do not find the problem. I changed the complete center section in my 40 and when I put the drive shaft back on the pinion shaft, it did not run true. When you pull the rear end back so you can see the drive shaft, rotate the drive shaft and make sure it runs dead center in the torque tube. There is a whole section in the shop manual about this . I did not do this when I assembled my 40, and it shook me right out of the car.I ended up clamping the rear end to the floor and using a hydraulic jack to move things around until the shaft ran true, and that cured the problem. I just bring this up in case you changed anything back there. I changed mine because the 4,40 ratio did not run on the interstate very well. I put a 3.42 from a 55 in ,and made a real highway cruiser out of it.

Have you looked at yout tires and wheels? I find it hard to believe that this could cause a vibration at that slow a speed, but the only other thing is the rear end itself. One of the side gears may have lost a tooth which could cause it to jump, but it sounds like more of a balance problem than anything else.