The Old Guy

That is a generic piece ,and is probably worth $5 as a core

Try :www.factoryautomanuals.com Dan Bower, the man that runs the place is very honest and fair.

I am, but I am driving my 40 convert because I am going from there to Helen GA for the BDE meet

The straight 8 filter was not a full flow unit,so you only had to change it every 7,000-10,000 miles. The oil is drained from the pan, and new oil is poured in the filler hole in the rocker cover. If you replace the filter, you can pour the filter can about one fourth full before installing the filter. It really is not necessary,as the oil pump will fill the canister quickly. There is an orfice fitting where the line goes into the head which will restrict the flow so the filter will fill fast enough that the top end will not run dry.

I bought my 1940 Buick Super convert in the spring of 1972. My wife and I were in charge of registration for the second national BCA meet in Flint MI, and the teller at the bank told me her husband had an old Buick he wanted to sell. It turned out the her husband was the flag man at a track I raced at ,and to make a long story short, I have owned it since May of 1972 and driven it over 93,000 miles.

Bill, it it a bulb or a 6V sealed beam unit? I have one of them ,but no bulbs.

I will go check in the barn. I may have one in an old light. I will let you know this afternoon.

It is either a Super Buick ,or an Olds88 ,but GM never made a Buick Super 88

I love the information available on these forums, but I am not knowledgable enough about computers to post pictures. I wish i could!

One pair of 1962 Invicta tail lights(lens good &die cast has small pits)$50 plus shipping 1962 Grille Very nice $100 plus shipping Call Joe :810-655-8988

Placing a fine mesh screen in the upper hose will also help keep contaminents out of the radiator. Set it in place and check it occasionally, you will be amazed at what you find. I was told that water still cools best and if you do not need antifreeze, don't use it

It is $1.63 fo regular in the Flint Mich area. I filled up last week for $1.33

The Electra had a 5 0n 5 pattern until they down sized the car in 77

I think if I were you , Iwould read the posts about the Poston intake.Most of the ones I have read say it is no better than the cast iron stock unit. I also think for street use ,you will have better luck with the Q-jet that came on the engine. The cam that seems to get the most favorable comments on the performance boards for a street car is the TA performance 118 or GSCA 118. I have one in my 72 GS convert ( which weighs in at 3990) and with an Edelbrock performer intake ,Q-jet and headers it runs low 13s at 105+ and that is with a 3.31 axle and a 200-4R overdrive automatic

My 91 Park Ave Ultra will pull 26-27 on the interstate, and normal everyday running gets 20-21. It has 116,000+ on it and has not had a plug change yet to my knowledge. I bought it with 85,000 and all I am doing is driving it up.

It depends on how fast you drive and which roads you take. Itis approximately 60 miles.

Be VERY careful when you tighten the badge,as the stud is epoxied in place, and if you put too much tension on it, the badge will pull loose. I made a nylon washer that fits tightly over the stud and fits against the head of the stud, with the back tapered to clear the badge. I had one come off, but fortunately it fell off while parked, so I came up with this ,and have had it in place for fifteen years.

Bill has the drill right down pat!! Just make sure you have friends with long arms to reach over the fenders!

The modified question has come up before. One thing that has been pointed out is that the BCA is getting older, and we need younger people in out club. If you have looked closely at some of the modifieds that have been shown at the national meets, you will find some real quality workmanship, and some beautiful cars. The BCA has maintained that thay must be Buick bodied, and that makes for a very exclusive group. The previous poster also pointed this out. Judging ,if it is necessary, could be just the opposite of our 400 point system . Every modification made would give the car points, and the Buick with the highest points wins. We have a performance division within our ranks that have Buicks modified to go fast, and they are of show quality and would have nowhere to present their cars if it were not for the modified class. This class abounds in younger people, and they can use their talent later to do a quality restoration. I became a member of the BCA in 1969 because my boys were old enough to use my race car, and that worried me. I have had some decent Buicks through the years and have had the good fortune to have two of my Buicks at The Meadowbrook Concurs'd'elgance ( one was not invited until after I sold it ) Now my children are grown ,but I am not , and I have two modified Buicks, a 72 GS 455 that I drag race, and a 37 Buick coupe that is all late model underneath. It also has a 455, and I still enjoy all the facets of the automobile hobby

They were first used in 1949, and rumor has it that one of the designers installed some on his 48 and they had lights in them . The general manager of buick at the tome ( I don't remember his name )saw them and had them put on the 49s. The first few had ducting for cooling, but that was soon dropped. They were part of the design for quite a few years, but I am not sure when they stopped. The 53 Skylark was the only Buick without them for a long time.

My buick is a 1940 model 56C and it originally came with a 4.40 axle. I changed it to the optioal 3.9 back in 74 ,and then found out that the rear axles from 1940 to 1955 were interchangable. I then installed a 3.42 from a 55 Dynaflow ,and it will run all day at 70+ without a problem

The shimmying problem you are experiencing is a common one. Bias tires are not being made as well as they used to be. I experienced the same problem with my 40 Buick when I installed new tires and found that I had two that were not round. I have driven my 40 over 95,000 miles and knew that something was not right. The problem seemed to get a little worse at 65-70 but my wife complains when I run that fast in the old car, so I had the tires trued,and she doesn't realize I' going that fast anymore. I normally run 70+ on the interstates with my 40 ,so I do not understand why there are so many people that think that they won't go over 60

I have a 63 Electra 225 2 dr hard top with 25,000 actual miles on it. It is black with a gray cloth interior. It looks VERY good, and is all original. I bought the car with 17,000 miles on it ,and drove it to Colorado just to check it out. I have too many cars and am offering it for sale for $8500

I just looked through my papers, and I can't find any numbers for the parts. I would almost bet that the pistons you have are after market, as they would not run on pump gas.

When the lights go out when you apply the brakes, the first place to check is the ground. If the ground is bad you will have the problem you are experiencing. Run a jumper to the socket, and see if that solves the problem ,and if it does, run a ground wire to the chassis. Trying to get a good ground through all the fender welting and insulators for the light is a problem.