The Old Guy

The 80 series had metal garnish moldings,and the 90 had real wood. The other interior appointments were the same,except for the before mentioned lighter. The materials use on the seats were the same.

I drove a 32 90 series for a number of years,and I did not see any appreciable difference in mileage no matter where the heat was. The car got 10 MPG in town or on the road. The only thing I found was, it ran without the choke being partially on quicker, which might save a little fuel.

Brian, I have a 57 Special on a later chassis(72 Electra) and I put The classic Auto AC unit in it two years ago. It was the best thing I have done for the wife in YEARS.I have under dash Vintage AC in my 37 ,and no matter where you point the ducts, it hits you with a force. The AC on the package shelf comes up to the windshield,and just drifts back. I installed it after out BDE trip to Deadwood SD and it works great!

The 455 uses a 14 MM plug

Me too!! What Bill said!

I have an Eagle One ,and it is a nice unit. I got the aluminum ramps, the wheel kit, the drip pans,and the jack bases that go across between the rails delivered for $3400 and change. The ramps are handy as you do not have to wrestle them into place like the heavy ones.

If you have a 53 322 ,it may be the best move to find another engine. The 53 had a huge dome on the piston and a strange head configuration. The later(55-56)engines were OK, but if you can find a 401 you will find they have many more after market upgrades available,and they are better engines.

The Eagle One can be supplied with either 110 or 220 motors for the hydraulic pump. It also has wheels which allow you to move the entire unit just be attaching them and rolling it where you want it.

I bought the Eagle One ,and it is a well built unit. I am very pleased with it's operation. It also has aluminum ramps, ao it is easier to load and unload.

I have driven my 1940 Super over 90,000 miles, and it has NEVER left me on the road. I replace a water pump and a voltage regulator in the parking lot ,but I carried the parts and was on my way.

The anti- cling static sheets,that you put in the drier to keep your clothes from clinging. I have used these in place of moth balls for some time, and they seem to work ,and they leave the car smelling much better in the spring. Bill, moving south is not an option for me because although it is nice in the winter, I am built like an old Polar bear, and would melt in the summer. I just hibernate in the winterand make sure my Buicks are ready for the spring

Yoou can expect as many answers to this question as there are posters on this forum. Everyone has a way they do it. I change the oil and filter, grease the places that require grease,and spray the underside from front to back with WD-40 I then check all the fluids, fill the gas tank and make sure that the radiator is set for -30 degrees. the car is then cleaned and waxed,anti static sheets are placed throughout the interior,and the car is parked in the garage.I place a light nylon cover over it to keep off the dust,and monitor the battery through the winter. I usually end up putting the charger on at least twice to keep things charged, but the amount of charging will depend on the car. The later cars with electronics will need to be charged more often

Do you need just the cable ,or the casing too? You can get cable replacements at any good parts store

What are you looking for?? Mechanical parts are available through numerous vendors, and sheet metal and interior parts can be found in the ads in the Bugle and Hemmings.

The parts from the 1941 that are offered will NOT interchange with the 1940.

I pulled a 17 foot 1954 Airstream all over the country with a 57 Buick wagon, and had no problem. I would suggest a tranny cooler. The Airstreams of that era have good electric brakes,so you should have no problem. I also pulled the same trailer with a 53 Caddy , but only on short(300-400)mile trips,.

I think if you use some of the suggestions in these posts and obey the main rule( stay out of the 4 barrel) ,you can drive an old Buick very economically. If you are at all mechanically inclined,you can tune the car for mileage, and if you are really serious, you can put in the 200-4R. I have driven Buicks as a primary car for over 50 years, and did it because of something my Dad told me a Loooonnng time ago. He said" If you buy a Buick ,or a big car,you can find good cars that have been maintaind, but if you get a little car, by the time you get it they have been through three or four owners, and are junk". I would suggest an A body as they are lighter, and the 350s with a TALL gear are capable of 15-18 around town ,and 20+ on the highway.I have a 200-4R in my 455 GS and it pulls 17=18 on the highway with a 3.31 axle

If the two paper system is workable, I believe that would be the sensible solution. If it is not feasible, then I prefer the glossy paper,as the others have stated, it makes the whole product seem richer.

I have owned my 40 for thirty years, and have driven it 90,000+ miles. It has only been the last ten years or so that I have had the heating problem. The rad has been supposedly boiled out, but I think in my case, that a new core ,or a rod job is the answer.

I had the radiator out of my Super a few years ago and the rad shop said it was fine. A friend did the same thing with his 40 ,but he told them to take it apart anyway, and it was better than half plugged. I wish I had had them pull the tanks, because I think I have the same situation. When my rad comes back out, it will be disassembled ,and if necessary ,a new core installed. I put in a 3.42 gear to slow the engine down on the highway, and that helped, but I am still running too hot.

The sending unit has a 1/8 tapered pipe thread, and will loosen by turning counterclockwise. I have always removed them with a socket that I ground to fit over the unit. You should be able to remove it with Channel locks. You just have to be careful not to slip,or you will leave marks that the judges do not appreciate.

Mine is also a Super, so it looks like I am home free! Thanx a lot

Does this work on all series? I have a model 56C and I have been dreading the task . I am going to put in a new core,as the car heats on HOT days.

Brian L, if you mean the 56 Centurion concept car, the Sloan Museum has a 1/43 model, but I don't know who the manufacturer is.

The motor mount on my wife's 91 Park Ave Ultra also broke. It seems to me it cost in the $60 range and was easy to replace. Be careful when you tighten the bolts, as they are REALLY CHEAP and they will break.