harry yarnell

Have to pull the harmonic balancer; no easy task. No code will set.

I disagree with mssr.Dirk as to crankshaft position sensor failure; these sensors fail on their own accord, no mechanical involvement. The CPS is my FIRST suspect with this symptom; fuelpump second, ign. module third.

ackits.com is a good source. So is E-bay. Most of these new compressors are Chinese, but they appear to be of high quality. I've been using them for years and never had a problem. We're talking maybe 12-14 compressors.

Maybe the vacuum line to the HVAC is disconnected. No vac, and it defaults to defrost.

I personally like the wood grain panels and harvest them anytime a '89-'93 Riv comes into the local yard. The door panels won't fit, though they look like they will. I've got all I need.

I think you'd do better swapping (selling) the wood grained panels for the stock drab panels...just sayin'.

The vacuum 'tree' that you broke is common to many GM's of the era. Check salvage yards. Someone on this list may have one at a reasonable price. As for the thermostat housing, it's being held by the O ring that seals the housing; just pry it off.

As to the shifter cable; the actual shifter cable isn't the problem. There are two cables hooked to the consol shifter; one to the tranny, and one to the steering column. It's this second one that maybe the problem. It may have just popped off its stud in the consol. Maybe I should have made this clearer earlier.

How about the shifter? If there's slop in the shifter cable, the key won't return to LOCK.

Yes; they are intermittent.

It's an air bleed.

Beautiful. I've made up a similar jig for the brake system on Allanti's. Pressure gauge is available (cheaply) at Harbor Freight.

I'm not sure there's an external cooler for the trans. There's one for the power steering in front of the condenser; about a foot long by 3". I've seen factory external trans coolers on Cadillacs and some Buicks as an option; about 6x9".

I thought the HVAC module was under the glovebox, not in the engine bay. Or are we talking the blower module?

I've had a Cadillac Northstar with a chronic code 171. Turns out to be a vacuum leak in the HVAC vacuum line to the vacuum tank.

All bets are off; I screwed up... Apparently it's the PRESSURE line that's been eaten. Now that I've poked around the chewed line, there's insufficient pressure to start the car.

What I want to do 'temperaraly' is take the return line out of the circuit so I can drive the car. My understanding of the FPR is that it only relieves fuel pressure to the return line. As the throttle opens, vacuum decreases, and the pressure goes up. Has NO effect on fuel delivery to the injectors.

The 'eaten' line is the return line, and is at a bend in the line; hard to put a splice in without rerouting the line. I'm thinking of capping off the return at the FPR as a temp; anybody see a problem with this? If I remove and cap the vacuum line to the FPR, will that cut off the flow thru the return/

They're at it again; damn squirrels. This time they've chewed a hole in the plastic fuel line just under the drivers seat. Looks like I'll have to sideline this vehicle ('90 Reatta) til the lift is free, but that'll be awhile. There's a Seville up there getting an engine transplant...

I'm concerned by the terms 'loose' and 'not together'. Do you mean they're not connected to anything? They're a number of splices under the seat/carpet; are these wire ends near a splice? These splices often corrode from water intrusion and the electrical connection fails, but usually the wires are still wrapped together giving the illusion of connectivity, but not the case.

This '98 engine that I'm thinking of buying, comes with its own tranny (4T65?). It's in a clapped out Riv with 81K on the clock. What else should I pull from this car? Half shafts?....

I have the opportunity to pick up a '98 Riviera supercharged engine. I've got no plans at the present as this just popped up, but the thought of putting it in a '90 Reatta interests me. I know some of you guys have done this so I'd like to pick your brains. I'd like to keep the Reatta electrics intact. The engine is a '98. I've done engine swaps before (3800 in a Fiero; corvair powertrain in a VW bus) so this looks like an interesting challenge. Any thoughts?

Don't forget the '89-'93 Riviera's for parts. Almost an identical car.

The switch portion of this assy is what goes bad; the rest is bullet-proof. Not sure if it's sold separately, but it does unbolt (one screw). I harvest them when I'm at the yard. About 50% are good.

BCM is easy to remove. If I recall, one screw holds it right in front. Glovebox has to be removed...or am I thinking Cadillac. Still early before morning coffee...