harry yarnell

I harvest twilite sentinel photocells and HVAC blower controller modules. Not too many Reatta's or Riviera's where I pick, but PLENTY of Cadillacs.

I used to repair TV's; and if I saw a single vertical line, I knew there was an issue with the horizontal sweep. This was rare, as the high voltage for the crt required a horizontal signal..no H sweep, nothing on the screen. That said, I sure would like to see a schematic of the Zenith CRT, so I could troubleshoot. I'm still trying to figure out the horz wiggle on the lower half of the screen.

There is no vacuum booster on any Reatta.

Maybe. I don't think there's any performance difference between the Delco and the Magnavox; just that the Delco SEEMS to be more reliable. The issues you mention could be any number of things, including the ignition module. Any codes set? Plugs, wires, dirty IAC, leaky EGR, and a plugged cat, pop into my head right off the bat.

Fumy can also be a very rich exhaust, maybe due to a miss.

NO. Epoxy it in from the front like we're ALL doing. It works.

What causes the CRT screen to 'wiggle' (shimmy)?

Crackling is a commom complaint, not sure about buzzing. There are six electrolytic caps in the radio (inside the consol) that go bad. There should be a 'how to' FAQ on Ronnie's site. (I think).

You mean to tell me all a Select 60 is ,is an EMBLEM?...and 16 way seats?

So what's the big deal with having a Select 60?

It's a Braille thing.

I don't see a problem, unless the HB is REALLY shot, then it just will wobble. If it appears to run true and the rubber looks good, you should be good to go.

Car should run just fine. Alt. light will come on, but no codes will set. If the belt was smoking, you should be able to turn the alternator stator by hand (with the belt off) to feel if it's binding.

I'm curious how this turned out...

Change out the sensor.

There is NO way the belt can rub that bracket, unless you didn't route it right. The belt comes down from the power steering pump, on the left of the HB, wraps ALMOST all the way around the HB (UNDER the bracket), then switches back up the left side of the water pump, then down to the compressor. Then again, if it was misrouted, I doubt you could get it on Just a thought...

You have a R134 retro fit, and the nipple is for R-134. R-12 hoses won't fit.

What damage could it do; it's rubber. If it remotely got sucked into a cylinder, it'll burn up in no time. Might, just might, hold an intake open for a short period before meeting it's fiery demise.

I didn't think the alarm on a '89 disabled the starter as does vats.

Is the shifter in PARK? I don't think an '89 has Passkey anti-theft.

47# is fine. What does it show with the ignition on and the engine off?

The pads are loose in the caliper, but not in a dangerous way. I personally like the sound of loose pads, as that tells me they're not stuck!

Bleeding off some Freon will bring the pressures down, and ,theoretically give you colder and quicker chilled air. my concern is this 'shutting down' you speak of. A code 447 indicates low Freon, but you stated you've got 55# with the engine running. You may have two issues here; a bad sensor, and an overcharge. Are the radiator fans running ? If not, pressures will be VERY high and poor to no cooling. Check the fans before you bleed Freon. As for the high side, 330# on a 90 deg. day is about right. Both high and low pressures vary directly with ambient.

55# is way too high. I'm assuming you're using R-12; low side running should be around 32#. If you're using R-134, look for 40#

Wait a minute, guys; he said it wouldn't CRANK. Has nothing to do with the crank sensor or the fuel pump! My money's on a bad starter or battery.What does it do when you attempt to start it? Click? groan? Nothing?