ply33

It is the same locomotive: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Union_Pacific_4014

Lots of nice back roads in the hills and mountains of inland San Diego County. . . I am now in far south Orange County and those SD roads are the nearest nice touring roads near me (OC is way too built up with only a couple of short nice rural roads left).

I gave a link in my reply earlier today: https://www.ply33.com/Parts/groupUMS#43467 Lever arm shocks were used for a lot of years and I think many of them on many brands used a similar linkage setup. The front links are shorter than the rear and I think having the length incorrect might cause some problems. But off hand, I can’t think of a reason why your link rods are getting bent and mine are not.

I haven’t looked that close construction/drain setup on an early 1930s rumble seat but I do recall an expert tell me that the lack of a good seal and drain was a design flaw in them. Scott: Could you remind me of where you are in SoCal?

I used some sway bar link rubber ends for my 1933, see: https://www.ply33.com/Parts/groupUMS#43467 The original links were, I think, forged to create the little seat for the washer that holds the rubber bushing. I ended up getting some 3/8 steel rod and threading the ends much longer than the original. Then I simply threaded a nut down to the where the seat needed to be. When you tighten them remember they need to be able to pivot where they attach to the shock arm and to the axle (where my original ones wore through). If they can’t pivot then I guess the rods could bend but I’ve never had that problem.

Should I assume this is a joke? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brian_Wilson Not a car guy but did write some car songs like

Very similar to those in my 1933 Plymouth. Top side looks very, very close. But the mounting hardware on the Plymouth is different. I wonder if Chrysler used the same vendor for interior components as the manufacture from whatever car those seats came from.

It probably depended on which unit in the Roman army marched the mille passuum (thousand paces) though wikipedia claims it was the equivalent of 4854 feet. One of my pet peeves with respect to talking about cars is “old skool”. First, because it usually seems to describe something that wasn’t done in the old days. Secondly, if it was done in the old days the old timers would probably not use the term “old school” for whatever it was and certainly would not spell it “old skool”.

Sure looks like an overhead cam driven off a vertical shaft at the front. I am away from home and my reference materials to check, but wonder if the “Jackson” on the Geo. J. Scott Motor Co. shop window identifies the chassis.

The drag link was made of relatively thin wall pipe with a keyhole shaped slot for the ball of the pitman arm to fit in. That tubing wears around the opening for the pitman arm ball and once thin deforms. Rare Parts in Stockton, California makes a replacement drag link which looks original but is made of a bit thicker material.

I discovered the DC-DC converters being made for golf carts recently. An organization I am with has a remote solar powered weather station and our transmitter got fried by an over voltage condition due to how the solar controller and batteries are configured. Easiest solution was to drop in a golf cart DC-DC converter that takes an input voltage between about 10v and 50v and outputs 12.8v with way more wattage than we need. Marvelous little device, apparently intended to run 12v headlights on a vehicle class that has a wide range of battery voltages.

Many states have periodic safety or smog checks now. Have the odometer reading at the time of inspection recorded. If inspections are not every year, have the owner report the odometer on the registration renewal form. To reduce the number of dishonest owners, a sizable fine could be applied if/when a discrepancy is found between the owner reported odometer and one done by an official inspection station.

Rusty has it. . . A fairly common heat related problem on our older Plymouths when parked hot is that the fuel in the carburetor bowl gets warm and expands then floods into the manifold. Not a vapor lock situation (vapor lock would keep fuel from getting to the carb) but heat related flooding. Generally setting the carb float to a little lower than the original specification to account for modern gas greatly reduces or eliminates the problem.

Just looked up the headlight bulbs for early Dodge in my 1931 Chilton’s Multi-Guide. Looks like they changed from using a 1129 lamp in 1927 and 28 to a 1110 lamp for 1929 through 31 (except for the 1931 Dodge 8 which used a 1120 lamp). So the 1929 Dodge came from the factory with the same headlight bulb as my 1933 Plymouth. And that bulb was typically replaced by later owners or service people with a 1000 lamp. The 1129 is listed in my 1970 lamp guide as a S-8 shaped glass, single contact bayonet base, rated for 6.4 volts giving out 21 candlepower consuming 2.63 amps, with a C-6 filament, rated at 200 average lab life hours. I guess Dodge did not have more modern type high and low beams until 1929. The 1120 lamp is not listed in my references so I don’t know what it was or how the 1931 Dodge 8 differed from the other Dodges for that year with respect to headlights.

First I’ve seen that particular illustration. The 1970 GE “Lamp Technical Data - Miniature and Sealed Beam Lamps“ I have lists the base as “D.C. Bayonet’ and they look like the Ba15d in your illustration. The ones with offset pins (“Bay15d” in your illustration) would have been listed as “D.C. Indexed”. Checking my stash of 6v lamps, the Mazda 1000 bulbs I have have the bayonet (Ba15d) base, not the indexed (Bay15d) base. And the 20 year old Classic and Vintage Bulbs quartz-halogen lamps currently in my car were labeled as Ba15d. Finally, I have a 1959 single sheet “MoPar Fast Movers” “Loose Leaf Parts List Service” sheet that shows Mopar part 142308 as the cross to lamp number 1000 and lists it has having a “DC-Bayonet” base (there are some other bulbs on that list, like the 1154, which are listed as DC-Index so they seemed to use the same terminology as my 1970 GE lamp guide). I could take a post some photos of the Mazda 1000 bulbs I have, but the pins on them are definitely not offset (indexed) and the bulbs, some in original packaging, are clearly labeled “1000”. so I think you are wrong about about the #1000 bulbs being Bay15d. Good to pick nits. . . If one’s car needs an indexed base (“Bay15d” in you illustration) and orders a bayonet base (“Ba15d”), or vise versa, then they will have problems.

I believe I found mine at one of the better local hardware stores. But that was a while ago and those types of hardware stores are getting pretty rare. I guess is a vendor that sells the hood lacing probably also stocks the rivets. For what it is worth, I managed to get mine installed adequately using common hand tools I already had. It probably would have been quicker and easier with the special tools linked to in a post above, but I don’t think it is absolutely necessary.

On a business trip to Australia a few decades ago I noticed that many cars, not just 4x4 or trucks, had “brush guards” installed. I asked one of the people at the site why that was and he didn’t know what I was talking about. So we walked out to the parking log and I pointed out the brush guards on a sedan and his response was “Oh, roo bars”. A new term for me. This is the first new post I noticed just after getting home from one of our rare night drives in my 1933 Plymouth which is equipped with Ba15d base quartz-halogen bulbs. I was reminded on the drive how yellow those look compared to more modern cars with HID or LED headlights. I bought some Ba15d LED replacements that looked very much like those on your link but from a different vendor and could not get them to focus in my 1933 Plymouth. They are still sitting on my work bench waiting for me to figure out how to proceed with them. If you have installed the ones from this vendor and they focus well in a headlight assembly designed for a Mazda 1110 or Mazda 1000 bulb I would like to hear about it.

Blockage on the line to the pressure gauge happened to me once and it took be a long time to figure it out as it did not occur to me that could be the issue with my 0 PSI readings. I went through the oil pump and pressure relief systems a couple of times, etc. before I used a different gauge and found the issue wasn’t in the engine but in the measuring device.

So is a 2021-22 VW ID.4 a real VW or not? (It doesn’t to me but I still compare VWs to the 36 hp '57 oval window Beetle I once had.)

If you want the more modern style bleeder valve like the one you have out, you should be able to get them from any good auto supply store. But they are not authentic for your car. The one you show still in the wheel cylinder is the correct one. This is correct. If you want the original style and cannot find a source, you can take a modern one and modify it. Remove the hose bib part then drill out the center to the correct diameter and tap it for 1/4-28. You will then, of course, need to make an equivalent to the original bleeding hose/tool. As I mentioned in an earlier reply, you can make one from a short 1/4-28 bolt and metal tubing. For myself, I went with the original style. I don’t have to bleed the brakes very often and it is almost no additional effort to remove the 1/4-28 bolts (dust caps), install the bleeder adaptor then bleed the cylinder. I will admit that I changed out most of the grease fittings for the more modern style as it makes doing a chassis lube a much easier process and I do a chassis lube much more often than I bleed the brakes. I have kept the original grease fittings so they can be re-installed if/when I want to.

Matt, Is there any fore-aft tilt in how you have the engine mounted in your test stand? I don’t know how your engine is fitted in the car but many of them have the front slightly higher than the rear which would help bleed any air from the back of the engine when you fill the cooling system. If you don’t have that then a pocket of air in the back would create a very hot spot which might blow the water out of the front of the engine. You have aluminum heads which are very good at transporting heat (which is why they use them for higher performance applications) so once some place in the engine gets very hot that heat will be transported across the whole top of the engine. Might not make any difference, but making sure that the fore-aft angle of your engine in the stand is the same as it will be in the car just to make sure any air can get out the way the factory intended.

I missed that earlier. There is no way that an unpressurized system using water or water and a mix of antifreeze could get that hot which pretty much means there was no water there. So either all the water in that area vaporized very quickly and/or there wasn’t very much water in the upper water neck to begin with. So while I still wonder about valve timing (a compression check should show if it is way off) I am becoming sympathetic to the concept that there is a lot of air in the cooling system that shouldn’t be there.

Definitely a puzzle. And I am no expert. I am wondering how the exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe can get that hot that fast. Seems like there is combustion happening in there. There have been others speculating on ignition timing which seems a good guess. But I am also wondering about valve timing. Is there a way on that engine to check the valve timing without ripping everything apart?

Also, like 31plymouth, I have never had much success using a one man vacuum bleeder. What has worked very nicely for me was making a pressure bleeder. For my car the reservoir is built into the master cylinder and the vent tube on top of it is a standard pipe thread, so I made an adaptor that replaces the vent. The 1929 uses a remote reservoir so my solution won’t directly work but maybe there is some other way of rigging a pressure bleeder on it.

31plymouth's photos, however blurry, show the setup if using the original bleeder screws. The original “Wheel cylinder bleeder screw”, part 77671, is drilled and tapped for a “Bleeder screw dust cap”, part 123291 (there is also a “Bleeder screw dust cap lock washer”, part 120380). Turns out that 123291 is simply a “1⁄4-28x5⁄16 Cad plated steel hexagon head cap screw” and 120380 is a “1⁄4 Cad plated steel lockwasher (standard)”. I made an adaptor with a 1/4-28 bolt (“hexagon head cap screw” using the parts book lingo) and some metal tubing by drilling a hole down the middle of the bolt then pressing the tubing into the hole. Or, alternatively, you can replace the original bleed screws with something like part 1263929 which was used on the P15 era cars and is readily available at places like NAPA https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/UBP11410?impressionRank=1&keywordInput=up+11410