Rock10

They really had cast iron pistons?!?! I thought that was a typo. Holy Mackerel 😳

When the engine gets hot it transfers heat to the starter and solenoid. As the solenoid gets older it's more susceptible to failure while hot. Usual sign would be unable to engage the starter to the flywheel and no starter function until the can cools down. Since it just began happening and the trips were short, that might be remote.

Heat soak on the solenoid switch?

There should be a threaded hole in the shaft that lines up with the hole in the bottom of the bracket. A bolt goes in there to secure the shaft. On the 36, the bracket for the Master cylinder secures the other end with a spring clip.

Looks like the shaft for the pedals is way too long. It should stop at the brake pedal and be secured with a clip.

This is our 36 series 40

Thanks. I didn't see the update. Just the original pic.

Just a little darker than Sixjay? 🙂

Is there a chance of warping the block at those temps? An overheating engine can warp a head.

🤓

Wow. Beautiful stuff. 👍

Yeah, I'd be hesitant to get into that. 😳

Yeah. What he said ^^^

In the electronics field it's called it a capacitor. It's basically an electrical storage device. Most automotive units measure between .2uf and .3uf. That reads as micro farads. In the car it serves to smooth the flow across the points as the field in the coil collapses to recharge ( when you break or open the points). A good one should read infinite resistance on an Ohmmeter.

I did research on our 36 which had been converted to 12 volts. The coil in the car said to use with external resistor. The consequence for not using the resistor was burning the points. His coil should have an internal resistor but it may have failed? Just a thought. Not sure what the resistor does as far as voltage drop. The points don't see the 55,000 volts. I think it works on the low voltage side of the coil between the coil and the points so it would be reducing the amp draw @ 6V when the points break? Not an expert. Just my thoughts.

Just a thought on burnt points. That will happen if the coil is too hot. Does it have a working resistor? Sorry if this was discussed before.

Grounds are very important. I would check that first. Our front fender lights didn't want to ground through the housing. Had to add an extra ground wire.

Did they work before or is this a new issue?

Interested to see what you find. 🤓

Can you pull it apart? Either the piston is stuck or the spring is broke. Was it new or rebuilt? Warranty?

Very strange. Does the pedal come back up to the normal height? Is there resistance when you push it or does it move like it's not attached until the very end? Almost sounds like the piston is stuck in the back of the MC. You might try giving it a couple of raps with a hammer before you take the lines loose.

Well the drama continues. We took the rocker shaft off to inspect it and found 2 of the rockers had worn through the babbitt bearing and steel backing and were running on the rocker itself. The shat was badly worn in one area. None of the bearings looked good. So we got lucky with Dave and he sold us a whole assembly. When i got the new parts, I took it apart to clean and inspect. That's when I saw how bad our old bearing really were. Then I noticed the shafts were not the same. Our old shaft had the oil holes drilled straight through the center and the holes were bigger. Also the hole at the front for the oil input didn't line up with the hole in the tower. You can see from the pictures where the oil had been flowing on the shaft. The new one has smaller oil holes for the rockers and they are drilled at a slight angle in the bottom third of the shaft. The input hole lines up with the locator screw hole in the second tower. Our old one didn't have any restricter in the oil line. The new one has a very small hole in the fitting that screws into the head. Looks like less than 1/16. I guess my question is any idea what the old shaft came out of and is that small hole going to provide enough oil flow for the rocker assembly?

That will be messy though as all of the fluid will drain from the MC and some of the lines. How did you bleed the brakes if it won't build pressure?