Rock10

We were going through the valve lash setting when we heard this noise. Any ideas on what it could be? About have way through when we give it some gas. Thanks

Maybe just sealing washers? The bolts/screws still contact the metal tank. The sender post should be insulated from the tank.

I believe from previous posts that the gauge needles are all between 2 pieces of glass and care must be taken not to bend them when removing the gauge. On the gas gauge, power goes to the lower post and the sender goes to the top post. Grounding the sender wire or post should send the needle to empty. With power to the gauge and the sender disconnected, the needle should peg at the top. Is yours still 6 volts?

Yes, but removing the tube from the head can be a difficult problem. Search the forum for examples. You probably have enough slack in the tube to pull the dash out enough to remove the temp gauge. I'm sure other members have more info.

1) No. The temperature line is filled with a gas or liquid. Has to stay together. 2) Yes. It's a tubing connection. Just be very careful. And oil may drip out when you take it out.

My brother replaced all of the tires on ours. They looked brand new but were at least 20 years old, maybe much older.

Is there any instruction set for rebuilding a distributor? Exploded view? Thanks

The 8 ohm is the speaker rating, not the rheostat.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/buick,1940,special+40,4.1l+248cid+l8,1485974,ignition

😂 It was amazingly quiet. We didn't know it had started at first. A little lifter noise once it warmed up a bit and LOTS of smoke. But smooth and steady idle. Even with the leaky carb.

HEY! It runs! A few problems still, but IT'S ALIVE!

HEY! It runs! A few problems still, but IT'S ALIVE!

We assume standard fuel pump and pressure. The needle valve seats in the fuel inlet. Float tested? What should the fuel pressure be?

I used a 1 1/2" freeze plug and epoxied it into the housing. Drilled a 5/16" hole.

I only have a very thin washer on it now. Carb is flooding. Need more needle valve in the fuel bowl.

Are there any instructions on adjusting the float? I would assume you bend the tab on the back where it contacts the needle valve but that looks like fairly heavy brass. Don't want to break anything. Thanks

One more

Final of 4 coats with sanding in between. Applied with an acid brush. Hoping to get it started for the first time this weekend, but having some carb and spark problems. The fun never ends.

Just PM to you.

Thanks. I'll keep it in mind.

Rotor fits good and tight. Won't go down any further. Going to mic the old rotor tomorrow. Something is out of wack.

Is the center terminal in the distributor cap spring loaded? We bought a new cap an rotor and can't get the cap back on. It pivots off of the rotor and won't seat. Cap fit fine without the rotor or with the old rotor which was damaged. Cap: STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS DR196 Rotor: STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS DR142

Thanks

Our 36 has a model number 663Y. It looks like it was from a 37 maybe? It should be a 663F. Is there a major difference? Thanks

Did he get a price?