valk

So I am aware of 3 potential sources of engine-turning capabilities: Eamonn Keogh, Boyer's Restoration (Skip), and Doug Seybold. Would be great to source examples of each to compare - regrettably, I can't help. I believe all 3 of these gentlemen produce very high quality work but it would be interesting to see which is closest to original in terms of swirl size, tint, finish, etc. Peter

Ok who is Skip? Bill Anderson told me a few months ago he is working with another guy (Skip?) to determine and replicate the original finish which perportedly has a green tint to it but no word on his progress.

I emailed the guy above and he said he's done about 15 or so late 30's/early 40's Buick dash panels over the years. The price is very reasonable at around $300 for both BUT one must have the panels 'double" chromed first, ie., dipped twice, which is costly. His website shows stunning work on incredibly valuable cars. Peter

My car stumbles a bit on take off when cold but runs great once fully warmed up. I attributed this to the chokes being out of sync but there is no good solution since there isn't a choke tube "port" on the rear exhaust manifold as there is on the front. I have rigged the rear heat tube to just rest against the manifold but since the front is a "ram-air" set-up, ie., exhaust gas goes through the tube to heat the choke vs. just conductive heat thru the steel tube, it doesn't work as well as the front choke. I suppose a "Y" fitting could be fashioned for the single port, but the heat tube lengths would be very different and thus the chokes would still not be the same. Maybe bagging the rear choke altogether - like the original set-up - would work best. Not a big deal so it's down on the priority list...and, err, I agree painting the valve cover would do wonders for your engine bay since everything else looks good. Let us know if you perceive any difference with 2 carbs. Peter

Shoot Dave. I just realized who you were - we met at the Rockville show a while back. Hope you're doing great and look forward to seeing you at the local shows.

Nice work. Looks like you made a sleeve for the rear carb so the air cleaner would sit right? What do you intend to do with the rear carb choke and heat tube? Peter

I'd love this car as the big brother to my coupe...

I just used some Mcguires #7 after claying and it works great. Topped it off with Mothers Canauba Wax and I don't believe the paint can look any better. On to the undercarriage - has anyone tried dry ice cleaning of the undercarriage? Looks like the way to go. Typical of this area, there is no one offering this service near me (Maryland) so it may be moot unless I buy the equipment. I could also use a lift but, again in this car hobby deficient area, there is no place within a thousand miles that will rent me one. Dry ice cleaning is intriguing... Peter '41 Roadmaster 76S

Of course, my apologies. I'm a bit skeptical it's the fuel mixture because it would have run like crap with the mixture so wrong. You know more than I but I would put it back together and take the temp checks you mentioned to confirm there's a problem. Might be other reasons the header paint failed.

Since you didn't go for my temp gun suggestion which would tell you definitively whether your running hot, look at the plugs. Should be easy to tell if you're way too lean on the rear 4 cylinders. I check my plugs after every long run and make small adjustments to dial in the right setting.

Thanks so much, Neil. This will be incredibly useful when my time comes.

This is a better pic showing what it does...

Maybe one of these gyzmos would help: Raytech Minitemp. I think I got this years ago as a gag present for Christmas but it has proven very helpful, particularly for my air-cooled British bikes.

I came across this - looks like great work to me. http://www.cs.ucr.edu/~eamonn/et/et.htm

Does anyone know what became of Buick experts "Jyrki" or "Alleycat"? These guys were around some time ago and apparently knew a tremendous amount about getting the most out of straight eights. Wish they were still around.

Stumbled upon this collection for sale - some really cool, rare Buicks.... https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/csw/cto/d/chanhassen-1940-buick-1941-caddilac/7060608000.html

They look simply beautiful...great job.

My Roadmaster coupe trim, like Keith's, is around 87" give or take an inch or so. The curve in question is, indeed, the same as on Roadmasters but it isn't long enough, for coupes anyway. So unless sedans are different, these wouldn't be for '41 70 series.

Err, late to this post. Agree that this is a great price and dismayed they aren't for a Roadmaster! Although I do not want to get in the way of my Roadmaster buddie Keith.

I've heard good things about Collinite. But has anyone ever used Pinnacle Signature or Wolfgang Fuzion waxes? They are very expensive and I'm wondering if they are worth the extra dough. I bought and used some Calyx, an exhaust manifold rub-on paint and it works ok. It certainly goes on easy but the finish looks a bit cheesy, like it was painted. Better than my rusty look but no one is going to confuse my manifold with a new one.

Dave, sorry to hear of your public humiliation. Let me know if you need an extra set of hands or eyes. Peter

My go-to metal polish is a tub of Mothers Mag and Aluminum Polish. Works very well on any non-plated metal surface. I also use it to clean up old chrome as it has gentle abrasives in it that cleans up pits and discoloration. Been researching wax and 2 products seem to be at the top, Pinnacle Signature and Wolfgang Fuzion. Both cost a lot and I'm wonderong if it's worth it. Anybody have any experience with these?

looks like Pinoccio's handlebar mustache...

Might be useful to start a separate board for "Products and Tools" so folks can get an opinion on stuff like wax, paint, oil, detailing stuff, carb sync tools, fuel lines, air/oil filters, gauges, tires, plugs, tires, etc. Just a thought.