valk

The late 30's early 40's Centurys are known for being the fastest American cars around due to the big engine coupled with the smaller body behind the cowl. The wheelbases and hood lengths are identical. Selfishly, I'm curious where the Roadmaster coupe fits in. I would think the lighter Roadmaster coupe body would give the Century (at least the 4-door models) a run for its money. Any thoughts? Peter

Another beautiful Buick on "Bring a Trailer"...... https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1931-buick-91/ Peter

Misspoke, I have a 76SSSSS, not CCCC...good grief.....

My 1941 76C has a woodgrain dash. As Grandpa noted, '41 convertible dashes were painted body color, not sure about Limiteds. Sure would like to see some pics of the 76c referenced above. Peter

Don't like dark colored convertibles because they...what?? I'm trying to show restraint but my goodness! You're ruling out so many nice rides. Peter

...and I am looking for a cool front license plate, maybe something WWII related like an Air Force insignia or even better, a 4-star General plate!

Ha! Hey Mike, you seem to know me pretty well...three projects are being mulled over at the moment, 2 rather controversial. 1) Install a non-intrusive, no holes to be drilled, 2-tone (to match the car) windshield visor 2) Paint the firewall; and the most aggregious sin to purists, 3) a monogram on the driver door. I understand this one is a bit self-absorbed and egotistical but, hey, you only live once... Peter

Some one got a great deal on this one IMO... https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1931-buick-8-90-series-roadster/ Valk

Thanks Boys, and thanks very much for your help. This is a cool option and I'm lucky to find them and have so much help with installation. Peter

Hi Neil, I plowed ahead and tapped the voltage regulator for power. Everything's finished, install looks and works great. Case closed. Peter

Mike, Yea I guess I could do that. There are 2 wires, though, that need to go through the firewall if i understand it right. And the switch itself already has a fuse, are you suggeting I need another one?? This is how I'm wiring it:

I think I'm going to route the wires through the spring holes in the pic above as it reqires no fiddling and positions them very close to where they have to be under the dash. According to Bill Anderson's book, fog lights were a dealer installed option, not factory installed. Pressing my luck here, but I could use some guidance regarding how best to connect the 2 fog light wires to the 1 power wire coming from the switch, a "Y" connection of sorts. Thanks very much, Peter

Well I'll be damned. You're right as usual Neil, I can't see sh*t anymore. So I could drill another hole or squish the wires through but, again, it's pretty there crowded already. I may have to do that but I'll poke around for another discreet route.

The metal cover covers the whole hole (that's pretty weird...) and cannot be removed without either disconnecting all the harnesses and stuff going throught it or cutting a slit and bending it off, neither of which is an option for me. I could drill another hole in the metal cover but it's pretty crowded already. I'll figure it out...

That is the obvious choice, but my main "porthole" has a metal cover and is already maxed out with added window washer tube and wire. I may use one or two of these spring holes just to the left of the voltage regulator.

That sounds like a good alternative. Not many options for wires to pass through the firewall and I don't want to drill any holes. I'll keep exploring..

....and I'd love to know how the factory wired 'em, including routing of the wires, if anyone knows or has a factory installed fog lights....fat chance on that one....

As suggested here, I'm running a single 12-gauge wire from my dash fog switch to right behind the front grill, then "splicing" in the 2 fog light wires so I don't have to run both light wires all the way to the switch. How would you guys suggest I make that 3-way connection? Butt connectors so the lights can be removed easily should I have to? Thanks for your opinions. Peter

Now that you say that, I bet the long spring on the fender wall (lower pic above) is an owner mod. This set up is only one side, probably because there is no place to anchor a spring like that on the opposite side. Cool idea though and worked well before I took off the bloody latches. My issue is related to the 4 latches themselves, and whether or not there are any washers on the pivot pins on each (4) hood latch. With no washers, the hinges are resting and turning on the body itself which just doesn't seem right. Hoping some one may know...

Does anyone have a schematic of the hood latch hardware on a '41? I took mine off (all 4) so I could paint some of my engine bay, put them back on and they work but do not operate smoothly. There is a spring that is supposed to retract the hood lever but it binds. I'm thinking there should be some friction washers around the pin somewhere but mine did not have any. And putting those springs back in place is no pleasure...

Thanks man. I'll give it a shot.

The pic looks like there is plenty of room to get a straight shot at the hole but it's deceiving and the bit can't go straight in without bumping up against thre housing.

Matt, How did you drill and tap the accessory knob in that one can't get a clear, straight shot at the pilot hole without the bit fouling on the edge of the housing? I see how one can miss the sweet spot and ruin the knob. I see no alternative but to start with a really small bit and try and widen the hole gradually so as to not mangle the housing.

Thanks Matt. And just for giggles, here's one WITH the relay:

Here's a stupid simple schematic of wiring the fogs without the relay - is this correct?