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Everything posted by valk

  1. I guess I just have to goose the idle speed more than I was doing...moving on...
  2. Update: The larger main carbs (490s) from the 320 engine worked pretty well, actually, very well. My only complaint was that the car would occationally stumble slightly on take off. Mostly out of boredom, I purchased 2 528Ss, the main carb from the smaller engine that most folks use in this set up, and installed them yesterday. One is a good rebuilt unit (thank you pont35cpe), the other NOS (thank you Lawrence). So far, it runs pretty much the same as the larger carbs but I haven't gone on a run yet. One problem that has surfaced is that I'm having some issues balancing the carbs using a Uni-sync tool. Engine RPMs slow down and the engine will be close to stalling when I put the tool over the carb, even with the tool's air valve open so much the red indicator just goes to the first line. So I have to place the uni-sync on the carb, note the position of the red indicator, and quickly take it off before the RPMs slow down. Did anybody else have this issue when trying to syn the carbs? Chokes are wide open and all 4 idle mix screws 1 turn out. This wasn't a problem on the bigger carbs., I was able to place the tool on the carb and leave it there without the engine slowing down. Any ideas? Thanks, Peter
  3. All this from a 21 year old from France, on an American car. You are truly remarkable, Sebastian.
  4. Thanks Lawrence, I’ll give them a call tomorrow.
  5. Thanks Greg! Got one, need to snag another.
  6. What are you doin’ in purgatory, you been a bad boy? All sins forgiven if you sell me a carb...
  7. Huh? That one went right over my head... I’ve secured 1 carb from a generous fellow forum comrade, just need one more...
  8. Out of bordom, I am considering conducting an experiment to identify the best Carter carbs for a '41 320 dual carb set-up. The conventional way to go, largely a result of Lawrence H's excellent work, has been to use 2 Carter 528S's, the main carb from the smaller engine, and many here have expressed satisfaction using these. I elected to try 2 of the larger Carter 490s (actually a '41 490 and a '42 533S), the main carbs from the larger engine, and while they work great when the engine is warmed up, it stumbles a bit on take offs when cold and I can't seem to get rid of it by choke adjustment. As such, I want to get 2 528s to see if they are better and if they are, I'll sell one of my larger carbs. If not, I'll pass the 528s on to some one else. So anybody got a nice Carter 528S to sell? I saw the ones on ebay but the cheap ones are too far gone and the expensive ones are, I think, over-priced. Thank you! Peter
  9. All great ideas, thank you. Went for a spin yesterday and the pump was pretty quiet so maybe I can postpone this a while. It’s been pretty noisy at times but it works and temp has not been an issue (yet). I’ll now be ready when the time comes.
  10. Thanks Dave. I used to buy a ton of stuff from the Kanter brothers many years ago when I had a Packard. I’ll check them out for sure. hope you’re doing well peter
  11. I’ve not heard from him but I think I’ll just get one from Bobs or Cars as I’m a little skeptical of older pumps that have been sitting around for a while. Thanks for the heads up though.
  12. Thanks boys, I can’t recall any bad things said about any of them so I’ll go with either Cars or Bobs. I’ll try it first without removing the rad but I will if I run into trouble, which I do more times than not. unrelated, I bought a hub cap from Bobs for under a $100 (with shipping) and it’s beautiful.
  13. Figures...my water pump has started making noise again (it kinda dissapeared for a while). This after I removed the radiator last year when I could have replaced the pump easily. I've reviewed what posts I could find on the subject so first I'll make sure it's the water pump and not the belt (thank you Matt) but what did we decide regarding which is best, a rebuilt pump (for less than $100) or a new one ($160 - 215)? The price range for pumps is all over the place but don't remember if we had consensus on which are good and any to avoid. I don't want to be doing this again anytime soon. Thanks much, Peter
  14. This is all too familiar to me. My ‘41 arrived to me when purchased with one broken and one bent push rod. Took me a while to discover. The engine had been rebuilt and the valve train looks new so I have no idea how this happened. The broken rod could be lifted out from the top when the rocker was loosened but I had to beat the bent one back straight enough to clear the cavity and be able to be lifted out the top. Got replacements from Bill (?) Tacheny who is a great resource.
  15. ...oops, posted in wrong thread
  16. ...I can always paint everything black down the line...I have a tendency to extend projects for as long as I can ...
  17. Thanks boys for your comments. Since you can’t see the inner fenders, I think I’ll just clean them up and leave them as is - faded body color. The fenders do have separate inside splash guards/pans that are visible and I’ll paint them black along with the frame and wheels.
  18. Thought I’d clean up and paint more of my under carriage. Are the back sides of the fenders supposed to be body color or black? My rears are body color but I think would look better black. Any ideas? thanks, peter
  19. If fuel and spark are there, maybe air restriction somewhere? At least you had a Dairy Queen nearby, I love their blizzards!
  20. Dave B came by in his beautiful ‘41 today and we measured and adjusted my valves hot. Since they were quiet to begin with, and there is strong support for leaving well enough alone, we only adjusted 2 (with the engine off) that were clearly not as tight as the others and buttoned her up. And now I have peace of mind none are too tight. Thank you Dave!
  21. ...babes in the woods. Better suck it up, you have a long way to go.
  22. “forced to acquire a ‘41 coupe”...some people have all the luck.
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