valk

Thanks so much Ben. And no hurry, at your convenience please. peter

Thanks Ben. The one I get will go on a rear wheel under a shroud so it will be mostly hidden. I’m very interested in one of yours if it isn’t too badly worn. thanks again Ben Peter

Bob’s has new stainless steel ones for 150 each, and Cars, Inc has them for $71(they didn’t know if they were chrome or SS). So I’m trying to determine why the wide disparity. Any ideas?? Don’s only has old crummy ones right now.

Thanks Ben, any chance I could get a pic? also, Bobs says the originals were stainless steel, but mine are chrome. Is he correct?

“...you may have to replace four”. Eesh, I sure hope not. Thanks for the heads up re Bob’s. Peter

Much to my dismay, I lost a hubcap somehow. Never heard it fall off despite having wheel shrouds. Maybe it was swiped but in any event, I need a replacement. Must be perfect to match my others. I know Bob’s and others sell them but thought I’d start here first. I believe ‘41 through ‘50 are the same but not sure. Also, while the Roadmaster has unique size wheels, I believe hubcaps from a special or Century will work (but not Limiteds). thanks, peter

Nice rebound, Matt. You got your mojo back. Peter

Bravo Tom. Can’t wait to see it. I see you are keeping rather busy during this trying time. take care, peter

...and I do recall you mentioned this before but my memory chip failed me..

That’s pretty slick. I’ll look into that, thanks! are you painting your firewall with the engine I place? That’s the last frontier on my car with respect to painting so I’m interested in whether it can be done. thanks again, Peter

Not sure what Holly part you are referring to or what they look like. Any chance of a pic?

I have a brake line on it now and it looks like, err, a brake line so I wanted to correct that. I also kinda like the serpentine curves of the original so I might try and copy that with the tubing kit. Bloo, your suggestion is best as it makes the choke function best but I think it's over my abilities.

Hmm. Two really good suggestions, thanks men. I shall meditate on this...

No second port for the tube so I’ll have to rig something up. Probably just rest it against the exhaust manifold where a second port logically would go. I’m not going to spend a lot of time making it work well as I don’t really need it. Understand it will have very little/no effect, but I think it would look like it belonged and better than not having one at all.

After mulling this over, I’d still like to get an original Carter choke heat tube for a ‘41/‘42 main carb if I could so it will match the one on my other main carb. I have a dual main carb set up and want them to look the same. If I can’t find one, I’ll punt and get the aftermarket kit. thank you, Peter

This guy (Sebastian) is a total stud. Wish I had a fraction of your talent.

Nice work Matt. Only thing I would add is to try and calibrate the new sending unit the same as your old one by bending the new unit’s arm to match the existing one. I tried this halfheartedly and wish I were more diligent as now, while the gauge now works, a full tank doesn’t quite go all the way to”full” and I have about 3 gallons left at “empty”. Still beats a busted gauge though. peter

Thanks Ben and Matt, much appreciated. Didn't think this would be sold separately.

Looking for a carb choke heat tube that will fit a '41 Carter carb off a 320 engine. Don't know if the heat tube from the smaller engine/Carter would work. Has a brass fitting that screws directly into the carb housing.. Thanks, Peter

Got it, thank you!

on some of my posts a trophy appears in the lower right corner. What does it mean and who determines I get one? thanks Valk Pre-war Buick

New sending unit came today and is now installed. Fuel gauge works great so case closed. I got it from CARS, INC as opposed to Bob's for 2 reasons: 1) the old one I had was from Bob's but developed 2 crippling problems - a cracked float that filled with gas, and the float arm did not move freely up and down but got seriousy stuck. Either issue would render the gauge useless, and 2) Bob's minimum purchase policy and exhorbitant shipping charges just rub me the wrong way. The gauges are a bit different - both have good and bad charactoristics that I believe are a wash. Thanks all for your help. Peter

I should mention the Eastwood paint was not readily available - on back order - hence my decision to proceed with what I had.

I paced around for about 20 minutes before I went ahead and sprayed the rear with the Rustoleum on hand and it turned out ok. Definitly in the "better-than-it-was" catagory. I need to spray the area above the tank next and might try the "stipple" technique Hugh mentioned above.

Eastwood offers satin black chassis paint that also looks pretty good and I can get it in a couple days. I think I’ll settle for this as I’m generally impatient and lazy... thanks Hugh and Kgreen for your suggestions.