Minibago

Did you fit the tyre and rim onto the front of the wheel or the back?

In my experience here in Australia the tyre fitters have no experience nor expertise with our wheels and with the best of intentions, not understanding how they should work can do more damage using their equipment. I am at a loss to understand that if the rim with tyre mounted was offered up to the front of the wheel, (inflated or not) how it can have possibly gone over the lip on the felloe (wheel) and now be jammed past it. The only way I can see this happening is if: A. The rim is a size too big. But you say this rim came off this wheel. B. The rim has opened up under pressure. But the tyre should prevent this and the tyre and rim do not look like this has happened.

I like this one Matt, Coffee and cake!!!

When looking at the wheel on the car the outside of the wheel is the front. The inside of the wheel (the side behind the front) is the back. I am at a loss to understand your predicament as the wheel felloe is designed with a larger diameter lip on the rear to hold the rim with the nuts and keepers on the front pulling the rim up tight against this lip. So logic says it cannot be fitted from the back but also that it cannot go too far over the lip from the front. I note your opening statement. The tyre and rim should fit onto the wheel using your hands only, lining up the inflation valve in the hole provided and the locating tongue to prevent rotation during braking. so more information please. Did you or your local tyre shop use an hydraulic press to push the rim onto the wheel? Perhaps past / over the back lip?

Just to clarify please. You have somehow fitted the tyre and rim onto the rear of the wheel and now cannot remove it. Is this correct?

Compression test then please. I think you are looking at a burnt exhaust valve. Or………an experience I had was with an original two part valve, the head welded to the stem parted company.

This could be a lead. A plug. A burnt exhaust valve. An exhaust too short and exiting under the car. But…… it could also be blow by from the rings causing crankcase compression and blowing fumes out of the oil filler. Remove the plug from number one connect it to the lead and lay it down on the head if you have spark at the plug then it is not spark. carry out a compression test with a proper compression tester to ensure equal compression on each cylinder (should be around 55psi each) check exhaust pipe exit point. Undo the oil filler lid and with the engine running place a plastic or paper bag over the oil filler to see if it inflates.

The tyre is removed once the rim and tyre assembly are removed from the car.

I a perplexed by item 5. The tyre complete with the rim is removed in one piece inflated or not, no flexibility required.

The reason the rim (light green) is so far back from the front of the wheel felloe (dark green) is because it has been fitted from the back. Please see my previous post. Put the wheel back on the car. Fit the rim and tyre.

The should wheel remain on the car. The rim is designed to be removed by undoing the nuts and retaining clamps and removing the rim from the front (outside) Replacement is the reverse of removal. The rim will not fit because it cannot be fitted from the rear (inside)

Remove the tyre and rim from the wheel. place the wheel, drum down, on the bench. place the tyre and rim over the wheel. Or. Remove the tyre and rim from the wheel refit the wheel on the car. fit the tyre and rim on the wheel. The tyre and rim only fit from the outside. You have the tyre and rim being fitted from the inside. The rim has a raised land that locates on the wheel and the clamps hold the rim tight on the wheel.

Great job Matt and fast, as usual. 🏆

The hood bows are for load carrying when you don’t have a ute.

More Petronix information.

I know this is an old post and the issue has been resolved and was not caused by the oil but I would like to clarify some points in this response regarding the recommendation of oil type / viscocity. The cars listed as examples using much lighter oil are later cars with different gearbox design. The gearbox design in the four cylinder Dodge Brothers cars fitted with multi plate clutches disconnects the lower gears / layshaft once top gear is selected. Much is made in this post about the 1940’s 50’s 60’s Landrover and the Military recommendations, with respect, not applicable here. The heavy oil recommended for the late teens early 1920’s Dodge Brothers cars is to assist in spinning the layshaft gear set to allow second to be selected, correct road speed and engine revs are most important. The easiest way to effect a quiet gear change is to drive the car in each gear and note the road speed and engine note. Changing down should be done at those road speeds with corresponding engine revs. Momentum is important so going up hill avoid waiting until you run out of puff, change down at the road speed you should be changing up. If your up change is noisy then you need to increase your speed before changing up. Back to the oil, please take into account the vehicle in question.

No stress Al, just trying to save you some time and suggesting both some interesting and informative reading. Please continue to ask, we have many smart and experienced DB owners only to willing to share the knowledge.

Interesting that the headline states “Three passenger Roadster” Yet the editorial only mentions two. Also interesting is the reference to the law prohibiting vehicles to stand on the street for more than 2 hours.

Just a suggestion, rather than asking the same questions (the transmission oil is a good example) you could peruse the previous posts covering the subjects and save some time. Another recurring suggestion has been as a first step, buy the Instruction Book. Just a thought.

The rivets are probably holding the female bracket (there are three) on the inside of the ring which mate with the male on the light body, (they should not be there. Undo by turning the ring anti clockwise about 15 degrees while pushing inwards slightly against the spring. Be careful you don’t drop the glass.

Many motor vehicle terms originated in the Carriage era and “Dumb Irons” is one of them. Far from being derogatory this term is quite correct and describes the curved chassis rail extending out to support the spring suspension shackle.

Sorry Roger, the photo of my Roadster floor boards is of a Budd body car but the screws used on the plates around the control levers were done during the restoration some 25 years ago (Not me) The plates to are not original but home made.

Jack, I am sorry but I am unfamiliar with the speedo part number 3851 Many owners have issues arise with the Dodge Brothers cars due to alterations made to the original design, sometimes changing parts thinking that the change will fix a problem however these changes then cause their own problems. Changes were made during the production years (gearbox layout and control positioning, foot pedals etc) and in order to incorporate / accommodate those changes, changes were made to the dashboard shape, scuttle height / width etc. As you have discovered, the room required to safely operate the controls of the later cars is not available in the earlier models. My recommendation is to put it back to how the Dodge Brothers had it.

As the speedometer is mechanical it cannot physically work correctly in both directions.

What matters is this persons history of asking for advice over and over and then ignoring it, taking pride in showing us that he managed using methods more suited to folk who wear blue and white striped aprons under the guise of “Using 1920’s engineering” This is most insulting when you consider the engineering skill and expertise that the Dodge Brothers displayed. Please pardon me for thinking that this is not acceptable.