Minibago

You stated, “My Car”

How to make your lawn look good.

Which car is referred to here? The one that has more rust than metal or the one you crashed?

This is a very sad situation, Glenn and Rosemary have dedicated many years to producing first class replacement castings, many unavailable anywhere else. The standard achieved takes time and skills rarely found, unfortunately the business found no buyers so is closing down. A huge thank you to both Glenn and Rosemary for all they have done for our benefit.

Sorry Peter, no tyre rim spare. We do have a chap over here in Australia rolling outer rims but the cost plus freight might be a bit high. Put up a separate thread request and see if any one over your side of the pacific has a spare. Best regards, Nige.

No idea on the brand I have on the car. I do have two spare 25 inch rims, I will look them tomorrow and send some photo’s. We are talking about the rim for the outer spoke ends yes? Not the outer rim for the tyre.

Not sure how the wheels differ Ray, my 17 roadster has steel fellow 25 inch wheels with eight bolts.

Like many things over 100 years old original parts wear out and the most easily available items were used. 1917 cars had 25 inch wood fellow wheels without the shoulders on the rear spokes to provide extra support for the braking. Later cars had 24 inch wheels with the hubs interchangeable and were produced in greater numbers so many early cars now have the 24 inch fitted. Due to the tyre dimensions I have found my 25 inch and my 24 inch wheels (separate cars) have the same rolling radius.

Anti rattle springs? Could you make them Matt?

Available from Myers Early Dodge Parts.

Just pressed in Ray.

Tom and Cindy Myers are first class folk, ten out of ten from me. The vacuum tank’s work great but need good vacuum, running up hill in top equals low revs and low vacuum and will cause starvation. Changing down will provide the necessary revs / vacuum but second is very low.

Welcome TT, you have a great car and nice family history. Put a working vacuum tank on it and enjoy yourself. Myers, Romar or one of our fellow enthusiasts will be able to help source one.

Remember the name to avoid for the future. This is not what this forum is all about. Hopefully Karma will even things out.

In my experience the outer band has a tendency to squeeze the drum face inwards over the years so the resulting measurement of the outer diameter will include this as well as the wear. I have not found a nice ledge on any that I have seen.

Older tyres become very hard and lose a lot of their grip particularly in the wet. Any “Dry Rot” is too much.

Semifluid grease for me. Grease caps to turn regularly to keep the grease up to the rotating faces.

Myers Early Dodge or Romar should be your first call.

As Matt also pointed out, there could be other issues, one is the rear universal joint behind the gearbox, this is often neglected when lubricating the various points and the top hat bearing cups will wear significantly in combination with the four drive pins / lugs. This wear can be considerable and will cause bad vibration, failure could be catastrophic so driving on amazed that it still goes is not to be recommended. Find the problem, fix it and enjoy the drive, Safely.

The gearbox has bearings front and rear for the main shaft and originally these were open allowing oil to migrate back down the torque tube on steep inclines, emptying the gearbox of oil, overfilling the diff and unfortunately lubricating the brakes. Sealed bearings are now available and it is common practice to remove the inside cover allowing lubrication but retaining the outer cover to prevent oil migration. The layshaft runs in caged roller bearings and the shaft has a tendency to wear. All these bearings, bushes and shafts are available new from the dedicated suppliers of Dodge Brothers parts. As Matt said, it is most important to ensure correct viscosity oil in the correct quantity is in the gearbox.

The clutch out put shaft wears on the square. This causes the intermediate gear to wear internally. This is a good shaft and a new gear (placed upside down on the shaft to show the correct fit. New shafts are available in Australia. It is this area which causes the most vibration / noise in 1st and 2nd gear. If the noise / vibration quietens markedly when top is selected then this is your problem.

The Transmission in our cars has a number of areas of wear but is simple and straight forward to work on. The bearing in the flywheel centre holds the clutch nose. The bush in the output end of the clutch shaft holds things straight. These are all available new.

Outer band.

Maybe check the linings first? It looks like the back side of the rivets are there.

The head return pipe directs water from the block / head back to the top of the radiator under pressure from the rotation of the pump impeller. No water flow out of this pipe? Pump not working. So yes, out of is the same as from.