Minibago

I just did a bit of seal research so please correct any misconceptions Matt. The ceramic seal you are using is two fold, stator and rotor requiring spring pressure to seal hence the removal of the cap nut. This seems to be the best sealing option. The following is my research results for comparison.

Very poorly now with alzheimers a big problem, his business is now taken over by Ray (Swan Hill) and our Dodgy friend Dimi Parker in Maryborough Vic. The shafts that Cled sold were from Cindy and Tom Myers so straight / aligned keyways.

I have new shafts made here in Adelaide with the correct drive keyway orientations.

Nice job Matt, could the original nuts be used to hold the seals in place?

Thanks Mike, much appreciated.

Is this water pump seal a modern upgrade? If so I would be interested in the process and seal part number please Matt.

Careful Nat, this is their last effort.

I have water pump casing spares if required Matt.

I will take the boards out tomorrow so you can see the trim better.

This is mine, 1917, the guy who restored it some 20 years ago was pretty keen on originality.

Driver access must have been from the passenger side.

Back in the late 1950’s we visited this spot in Belgium for a bit of fun. It opened in 1933 and is still operating now. Note the steering wheel, the off set axle position on the front wheel and the bike on the left in the background with an oval front wheel. All the bikes we different but none were normal.

I can do round stuff on my lathe (sort of) Out of round takes a bit more skill.

Clive has been unable to sell his business so he has just closed the doors, very sad, a huge loss.

Are you fitting an updated camshaft with a bit of valve overlap? This too will improve the combustion gas flow by incorporating the tail end of the exhaust to increase the inlet charge.

Do you have the correct colour coding Matt?

Lucas oil stabiliser is very similar and made in the USA

I too am a fan of Moreys.

Nothing wrong with learning from experience, reading the past threads can allow you to learn from others experiences, this path is often quicker and cheaper.

If you have a distributor then simply remove the rotor, loosen the screw on the shaft, replace the rotor, turn it to line up and tighten the shaft screw.

Yes, both Tom and Cindy are most helpful and a pleasure to do business with. As mentioned before the distributor rotor can be adjusted to suit the variation and I guess if you know what you are doing (but it is not recommended) you can move the gears in the magneto however as Tony pointed out you are limited to one tooth at a time and that only gets you close not exactly correct. The misalignment of the keyway advances the ignition timing too far on full retard and waaaay to far on advance. This causes rough running and overheating with a possibility of a kickback on starting breaking the starter chain.

Correction my mistake, it is ignition timing and yes, most Australian cars up to 1925 were fitted with magnetos

No what Tony Aus wrote is that the water pump shaft needs the keyways located correctly in order to have correct valve timing. Trying to set the ignition timing to standard with the valve timing incorrect does not make for a happy engine.