Minibago

Well………………………

Sorry Matt, I am pretty sure that all locking rings are on the outside.

Not all accidents are from “Massive” tyres at high pressures but most are because folk did not do the right thing. Be careful. Do it correctly. No problem. I have been witness to so many examples of failure to follow the correct procedure resulting in an “Accident”. So few get reported.

Correct.

On the outside.

Step one. Be very aware that it can be extremely dangerous if not done properly. Safety should be the number one priority. The wheel has what is called a split ring sitting in a groove holding the tyre on the wheel. Dismantling. Once the tyre has been deflated leave the valve out. inserting a tyre lever or large screw driver into the ring cut out, prise the ring outwards (towards the tyre) to clear the groove it seats in, place another adjacent to allow progressive levering to remove the ring. Please note it is not advisable to chrome this ring as the chroming process causes embrittlement of the spring steel. Once this ring is removed the tyre can be easily removed. NOTE. It is important that this ring and its retaining groove is not corroded, bent or otherwise damaged in any way. Re-assembly. The tyre complete with tube and rust band should be installed on the wheel rim and the locking ring reseated in the groove starting at one end and feeding round progressively until seated fully. NOTE. I cannot emphasise this enough. It is important for safety that the locking ring is in good condition and seated securely. I my day these wheels would only be inflated in a very strong wire cage as historically, catastrophic failure has caused many injuries and fatalities. Many enthusiasts who own these very attractive wheels will inflate them under a vehicle or perhaps under the lowered leg of a hoist if you have one to prevent the ring causing injury in event that it lets go. I would recommend an extended inflation hose and a lock on type connection to allow distance between the wheel and you however you MUST have a gauge at your end to ensure NO over inflation. Think it through. Do it carefully. Carry out a condition inspection. Check the ring seating before inflation. NOTE. The ring if released or failing during inflation can kill you.

What you have shared so far is not anything I would be proud to share with fellow enthusiasts. Asking for help and then ignoring the advice while continuing to ask is beyond my comprehension. It is a “No” from me.

Checked.

Been there. Page2.

Bought mine off ebay. A motorcycle shock absorber C spanner 75mm (3 inch). Don’t buy the hinged / adjustable one.

The rattle is caused by the clutch plates rattling on the pins, this will elongate the holes in the plates and cause wear / indentation marks on the pins.

ahhh. I think you will find that these are very recent (last 20 years or so) Glen and Rosemary Smith of Vintage and Classic Reproductions in Brisbane do a range of step plates like these. With a mat. And the earlier rear curved kick plate.

The roadster with the rear guard set back from the door access does not require the extra kick plate. The rear door entry for the tourer is much closer so an extra kick plate is often used. Matt, if the kick plate has a protruding turn up then it is incorrect, the kick plate curve should fit the body / running board valance curve neatly.

Yes, impossible to view the impeller through the pump.

It would be easier to leave the water in the system, remove the top hose to the radiator and turn the engine on the starter with the ignition off. If the water pump is working water will flow from the head return pipe. Credit belongs to JayG. 😊

Yes. If the cap is removed and the water level is above the deflector plate then water movement will be observed. No water movement will indicate a failed water pump.

The cooling system is not pressurised so the cap sealing is of no consequence. The pump can be seen operating (or not) by removing the cap and observing the return flow into the header tank. 2 gallons of water loss in 12 miles with no obvious leak does suggest head gasket or a cracked head / block. Methodical checking of compression Valve timing Ignition timing in retard and advance positions Fan belt tightness.

This seems very much like the “New” TV show, every five minutes there is a reminder ad that it is coming, lots of fanfare, over and over and then, finally…………. Expectations are not met.

Either design allows the foot rest to be flipped over back against the seat base to make it easier for entry and exit and to be flipped back out once seated.

You need a pair of these and insert them in a tube cut to length. Not sure if the sedan had them but I don’t see why not. Or there is this style.

The ignition switch on your car should ground the magneto by making a circuit with the wire to the magneto ground wire. When off it is simply disconnecting that circuit. It should be a four contact switch.

Well, let us explore this some more. Having no filter the oil contaminants continue to mix with the oil coating the various passages and settling to the bottom of the sump as a fairly thick sludge, even a good scrub with kerosene and a stiff brush will not remove this contamination without a great deal of effort so a spin around the oil ways by rotating the engine by hand is frankly of little use. I am interested to know how you managed to remove all the kerosene from the sump so as not to contaminate the new oil? Some particles of contamination may well have been dislodged in this exercise which is a further worry as the holes used in the feed rail to lubricate the camshaft and the lower cylinder bores are very small so a blockage would be quite detrimental. Oil pressure indication on the gauge will only show that the pump is pumping and oil is flowing into the block.

Logic would suggest that corrosion causing blockages and binding / seizure of moving parts due to years of dis-use would cause more damage when forced to move by mechanical means without proper cleaning / lubricating / replacement of worn or unserviceable parts. I shudder to think how the bearings both main and big end are faring with the initial dry start. I guess there would be some sludge build up in the oil lines which will hasten the inevitable demise.

Rich, do you have a grease point either side of the impeller to lubricate the lip seal? Without lubrication the lip seal seems not to last long. I have spoken to many DB owners having failures of lip seal modified water pumps and now better understand why.

I just did a bit of seal research so please correct any misconceptions Matt. The ceramic seal you are using is two fold, stator and rotor requiring spring pressure to seal hence the removal of the cap nut. This seems to be the best sealing option. The following is my research results for comparison.