The 55er

There's always the possibility someone took advantage of this opportunity right away and everything was sold in short order.

That's gonna be a really tough sell at 6 grand. I can see why the kiddo doesn't want it. Unless the floor's rotted away, I'm wondering why someone would put the headlight dimmer switch up on the dash.

Is there any way some pictures of this 3000 car collection can be posted in the photo gallery?

Or a bronze or beige car that was painted resale red. Maroon or red with a brown interior just just looks off to me. I once owned a beige 1964 Olds Dynamic 88 sedan that had this same color "saddle" brown interior.

John's advice is spot on, never spray up to a hard tape edge like in the first picture because you will never be able to sand that crisp line flat without damaging the surrounding area. Back-tape the paper around the surrounding area like shown in the second picture and avoid spraying heavy coats under the paper. Try to leave a little "grainy overspray" under that backtaped paper edge and let the paint completely dry. That way it will be much easier to color sand smooth, compound, buff, and blend in. I might add that experienced painters never use newspaper to mask! (it's full of lint). Use masking paper from a body shop supply store and quality tape.

Overspray on a relatively small partial fender scratch touchup repair like this would be negligible to almost nonexistent and IMO shouldn't be a deciding factor in what kind of spray equipment you use for the repair. You'll only be applying a few light coats to a very small area. Tape off the surrounding areas well and throw a car cover or some clean blankets/sheets over most of the rest of the car. I wouldn't be afraid to do a tiny minor repair like this outdoors on a calm day if I had to. The single most important part of this whole repair as I see it is how talented the mixing person is that's color-matching the paint. How do you know the existing paint on the car is lacquer? The paint on your Buick looks fairly recent and I haven't seen any cars of that vintage that were done in acrylic lacquer for a very long time (decades). If it were me, I'd get the new paint mixed in single stage acrylic enamel and blend it in as best I can. If you're unsure of your preparation & painting abilities have a professional handle the repair.

The interior is far from original and those are later hubcaps. I wonder if the trunk closes all the way. The general rule of thumb is if there's no price posted, it's way too high so people move on and check out the thousands of other vehicle listings that contain a number of appropriate pictures and have asking prices posted right in the ad.

The item on the far right is a 1947-1948 Chevrolet passenger car hood ornament.

The 1868760 armature goes with Delco generator 1100006 which has some 1939 GMC Truck applications. I had no luck with the other 816933 armature in my parts books.

Here's the lower spring UNDER the starter..........

1967 Pontiac Grand Prix.

Night Train's location is correct, my spring is attached to that exact same post.

Those red wires attach to what might be a non-original horn relay(?) someone added next to the voltage regulator.

The ones pictured are for all the 1950 models and all the 1951 & 1952 full sized cars. The 1951 & 1952 Special models had thicker bezels.

The frugal interior restorer.

I owned a (same color) Crest Blue 1949 Olds 88 sedan for many years. Seller states he's never seen another 98 Futuramic at car shows but according to the BaT ad he's only owned the car for 18 months. The BaT ad also states the odometer was reset and the car's actual mileage is unknown. This 98 Deluxe 4-door sedan was the most popular Olds model produced in 1949 with a production of 49,001 so it's not really a rare vehicle. It does look like a fairly nice car but being a 4-door sedan maybe it's just not collectible enough.

This is excellent advice. Never attempt to start & run a car on old gas.

Yard art, too far gone to fix.

If green 1942 Desotos would have had an unusual green striped interior like that, would blue 1942 Desotos have had blue striped seats or red 1942 DeSotos red striped seats? That would have been pretty wild for the early 40s and especially for a vehicle from rather conservative Chrysler Corporation. If there actually had been interiors like that available in 1942 collectors & afficionados would still be talking about them today just like they are still pointing out Chrysler's famous Highlander interiors.

Total off the wall WAG......the picture is from about 1959 or later because the tiny gray car at the very bottom right hand corner of the picture is a 1959-1960 GM car (possibly a 1959 Chevrolet) with a panoramic windshield.

Overpriced and even more overhyped IMO. Take this same car and shoot the photos in a more traditional Craigslist or FB setting, like parked in the backyard with tall grass growing around the bottom of the car or sitting off to the side in a suburban driveway with wooden blocks under the tires. POOF! it now becomes much more apparent what it really is, another non-running 6-cylinder project car with tired paint, chrome, and somewhat questionable interior that needs an expensive full restoration. In that more common FB scenario It might be optimistically listed at maybe $7500? OBO. However in the current ad this same car displayed in a rustic setting next to an old gas pump and with a Coca-Cola sign in the background magically becomes a $17,900 barn find collector's item. (I am not a patina person at all and to me that pea green color isn't helping things either). I have to give the seller a big E for effort on this one, I don't know if he will get anywhere near his asking price but he really knows how to present his car through rose-colored glasses.

I had two 1966 Catalinas and two 1966 Star Chiefs and put a lot of miles on three of these cars. I got 20 mpg a few times on some long Catalina trips, the best I could ever get from the larger Star Chiefs was around 16. The mileage is much less though (10-12mpg) on normal around town driving & shorter highway runs. I like this particular car because it seems to be a fairly nice complete untouched original (check out the condition of that steering wheel!) These are great highway cruisers with better styling than most cars of the period.

I have an older automotive manual that says 1946-49 Lincoln overdrives use an AGC 30 fuse. An AGC 30 fuse is about 1 3/16" long.

Give the screw contacts on the switch and the ends of the connecting wires a thorough cleaning. That's all you can do to it. I would never mess with the switch itself or try to spray anything into it. If the starting problem persists I would remove the starting motor and solenoid and have both checked by a professional auto electric shop.

If this were my car or someone brought it to me to repair I'd be leaning toward a blow-in or blend-in job because the scratches are rather large and there's too much missing paint. That's a lot of area to repeatedly brush fill and sand flat especially without damaging or going through the original surrounding finish. Also all those jagged zig-zag paint edges are going to keep cracking & lifting and will only cause problems until repairs are properly made. You can look at the top of the end E of the LeSabre script and see the paint surface was compromised, moisture got under there and the paint is also lifting in that small area. I'd remove the script and fix that at the same time. If it were me I would sand all that damage away, carefully feather-edge the upper crest of the top scratch and try to blend the paint (after gray priming of course) basically from where the upper light reflections are seen in the last pictures down to maybe the top of the S of the script and continue down underneath the headlight bulge where the color line won't be as noticeable. However, the most critical part of the whole repair depends on the experience and talents of the guy at the paint store mixing the paint. I've never used an airbrush but I have a lot of experience with large & small paint guns and that's what I would use with a lot of thin coats, then color sand, compound and buff the new paint into the old. Good luck with whatever direction you decide to go, I'm just suggesting the way I would do it might be a more permanent fix.