dustycrusty

Speedway (among others) still sells them new, but order soon, as they only have one left in stock! I love the cooling fins- wrap your hot, heat-radiating oil filter in a thick, heat trapping cast aluminum cylinder, but hey, we added some stylized cooling fins to kinda, maybe help expel 10% of the newly retained excess heat! https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Finned-Aluminum-Engine-Oil-Filter-Cover,5724.html?utm_medium=CSEGoogle&utm_source=CSE&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&gclid=CjwKCAjw6vyiBhB_EiwAQJRopkITPwxGsaxEOsytgn3Vl5jiY2l2RizR-yov-zoYCjVUXnd92SVxbBoCmj8QAvD_BwE

That cast aluminum piece with the swing-out priming door is definitely off of an early Gravely "L".

It looks vaguely Datsun "240-Z"-ish. Maybe it was supposed to be a 240-ZGT-40 mashup? No clue what it would be worth, but to find an eager buyer, try putting some "For Sale" flyers of it on the streetlight poles facing the exits of any theater playing the latest "Fast & Furious" flick...

????????????

Oldsmobile favored those slanted louvers...

Come on, man- If you dont know, what are the chances anyone else here would??

1923-'26 Dodge

https://sloanlongway.org/1912-little-motor-car/ Little automobiles were built in 1912-'13 to take on Ford's surprisingly brisk-selling Model "T". Manufacturer Billy Durant (creator of, and recently fired from G.M.) realized rather quickly that it was a poor name to attract the male consumers (compared to the less-than-subtle advertising of competitors like, say, Apperson with their "Big Dick" line of speedsters) so he re-badged it after a race car driver named Louis Chevrolet and tried again...

Here's probably the world's most famous early post war Harley Davidson, done up in much the same way as "Wild"...Bills(?) bike, on the April 7, 1951 Saturday Evening Post cover. It is a slightly later (1949-) Hydra glide "FL" Pan Head that obviously belongs to a ne'er-do-well named "TEX". It gives a better look at that extra long, sheepskin covered "buddy seat" they both are fitted with. That magazine cover probably led more kids astray and cursed them to be perpetually broke than The Wild One, On Any Sunday or even Then Came Bronson!

A late 1930's Harley Davison "EL" a.k.a. a "Knucklehead", slightly customized in a style typical of the post WWII era. The "Beehive" taillight was used in 1939-'40 on the "EL", and those tank decals were used from 1936-'40. That would be a nice bike to have today!

??? https://www.ebay.com/itm/265223834766

Its an odd one. Definitely not a Ford body, but it COULD be a different body on a Ford Chassis. Notice how poorly the "turtledeck" fits the short (100"?) wheelbase, overhanging the chassis and sticking out beyond the protection of the rear fenders by almost a foot. Willys Overland also had a roadster of the same general styling as the Oakland in that post-Great War era, with doors (or at least A door!) that opened rearward like the OPs photograph. They were even one of the very few manufacturers that also used that Ford-like traverse spring suspension.

A Reo?

1930-'31 Model A Ford Tudor

Its the same kinda car Jay Leno learned not to trifle with.

The 1955 GM Motorama "LaSalle II" hardtop sedan. Also available in roadster form!

So close...

Interesting alternate use for CV-joint boots...

Bitcoin investor.

"Chetopa Twill" was adopted by Lee in 1951, so the shirt at least, is no OLDER than that...

Advertise it as a rare optional extended version of the shorter crank, specifically designed for a Cub outfitted with a front blade/snowplow! I keep my 1949 Cub decked out for winter duties with a set of weights and chains on the back, and the factory snowplow attached to the front. Naturally, on the coldest, snowiest days the original 6 volt starting system reminds me why 12 volt conversions are so popular for these tractors, and I have to resort to pre- Charles Kettering starting methods. Unfortunately, when the tractor is so configured, the lift linkage for the plow is EXACTLY (seriously, you couldnt have purposely designed it better/worse) in the way of the crank so you cant turn the crank over completely without hitting it. You can only get a half turn at best, and that being on the "down" side, which isnt the side you want to be cranking on (pushing down), even if your engine only displaces 60 cu.in. and has a compression ratio of about 3:1. To clear the crank's swept area of these obstacles, you have to detach (unbolt) the offending linkage so one piece drops out of the way, and the other part is swung up and over-centered back towards the drivers seat and out of reach. I replaced that pivotal (literally) linkage bolt between these bits with a drilled pin and a hairpin cotter to speed up the process, but a slightly longer crank that would clear the linkage and woulda been a far easier solution- at least until that inevitable 12 volt upgrade shows up. OR, you can alternatively cut those extra 4 inches off, drill a duplicate hole near the new end, press in a replacement 5/16 pin...

My Cub's crank is 4" shorter than yours on the longest section. Too bad, as every other measurement is exact!