Bloo

Scrolling back this looks a bit contradictory. To be clear, this picture from an earlier post is the one that is just a switch, and *not* for any sort of a gauge. The big bell shaped units are the ones for a gauge. Beyond that, the outward appearance and which way the terminal points won't tell you much. The range of resistance and how it relates to pressure is what matters. I think @EmTee is on the right track with the Pontiac units, because they are GM and likely the Buick originals were from the same source. The 60PSI vs 80PSI detail deserves a close look though.

I usually use one of the tank mounting screws, but there's no reason the hose clamp won't work.

Inspect your distributor cap under a bright light. Also crank with the distributor cap removed, so you can see which way the rotor turns. Once you have verified which way it turns, double check the firing order. Look at how the rotor connects to the distributor cap at the center. Some distributor caps have a spring loaded carbon brush. Others have a carbon contact that does not move, but those types use a flat spring contact on the rotor that reaches up to touch. Either way the two must touch. Make sure nothing is missing or bad there. Is there anything odd about the ignition system? Dual points or dual coils or any other complications?

I'm not completely sure positive ground matters as long as you are using an old fashioned thermal flasher for incandescent bulbs. In any event, I am seeing 535s listed all over for 6 volt positive ground cars. The "P" terminal's whole purpose in life is to flash a single bulb inside the car. Usually it's inside the switch if you have a switch meant to add signal lights to a car or truck. If your flasher has a "P" terminal, that's what it's for. Some manufacturers (I'm looking at you GM) may have abused the "P" terminal in a poorly documented screwball burned-out-bulb-detection scheme that may not work anymore with newer production thermal flashers. Those problems do not apply to you if you have only one indicator bulb inside the car that is supposed to blink for either side. That part of the circuit is really simple in a system with one bulb (like most conversion signal switches). "P" Terminal >> Wire >> Center contact of indicator bulb. and Socket/shell of bulb >> Case of switch >> Ground The "Ground" above is usually made where the switch housing contacts the steering column. If there's rubber, or really good paint or something, you might have to add a ground wire. It would be a good idea to add one anyway, Connect it to the bulb socket or switch case. Run the wire to a good ground on the body somewhere or under the dash. It really is that simple. The circuit we are talking about is just a wire running from the "P" terminal to a grounded bulb. It is completely separate and unrelated to the rest of the signal wiring. I would test it by removing the flasher and connecting a hot wire to the wire that would normally be connected to "P" if the flasher was plugged in. The bulb should light. If the bulb does not light, it is either burned out or does not have a ground. If the bulb does light, then double check that the other 2 terminals are wired correctly. If they are wired correctly and it still does not work, the 535 flasher you have is probably just bad. 535s have a "P" terminal, and that terminal's only purpose is to flash the indicator bulb.

I don't think they necessarily even got the Pontiac front clip. I am a fan of the 53 Pathfinder (like the red 53 Pathfinder Deluxe @arcticbuicks posted). If you look closely at the front fenders, you can see the characteristic stamped line above the chrome and the matching headlight ring of a 53 Chevy that the US 53 Pontiacs did not have. It will have a Pontiac engine, but I would expect the rest of the drivetrain to be Chevrolet.

Well yes. Maybe. We'll have leave that to the OP to tell us. Ford Crestline is an early 50s Ford, and chances are good that Ford's own optional Borg Warner overdrive transmission from the period would just bolt in, only needing the simple electrical controls added and probably driveshaft shortening. I happen to think the B/W overdrive is the coolest thing ever, but that's neither here nor there. It isn't a T-5. What I suggested above is what I think is likely to be the easiest way to a T5 (and I have been down the T-5 rabbit hole a lot, just never with a Crestline). What the OP will need to do is measure everything a bunch of times, and do a bunch of calculations of the gear ratios, then compare to what has actually been made over the years. On a V8 car with a lot of torque, the close ratios of the currently available T5-Z Ford transmissions (and the Camaro V8) are probably going to be what you want on first through fourth but not necessarily. Another thing is the overdrive ratio. The overdrive fifth is dependent on the gears on the input shaft and the countershaft to determine what the overdrive ratio will be. The stock overdrive ratio on a currently available T5-Z is pretty tall, and I suspect is going to be a bit much on a small V8 with stock rearend gears. "Close fifth" gears are available, but require more work building the transmission because they don't fit through the hole fifth gear needs to fit through. Also the math doesn't work with the 80s Mustang gear ratios because the currently available close fifth is made for the T5-Z ratios, and fifth gets so close when combined with the 80s Mustang ratios that it might as well be fourth. It would work out OK in the Camaro transmission for gear ratio, except that it doesn't fit. You can make it fit by using a Ford output shaft, Ford yoke, probably move the speedometer gear(?) etc..

That doesn't prove the battery isn't dead, unless you were checking it at the battery while cranking. Under no load a very discharged battery can show almost normal voltage. Try it at the battery while cranking. Put your meter leads right in the center of the battery posts, that way dirty terminals couldn't affect the test. If it pulls down almost as low as the voltage you measured while cranking at the starter, you need to charge the battery. Where EXACTLY did you measure that? Where were you meter leads connected? If the voltage is pulling down low at the starter while cranking, and NOT pulling down at the center of the battery posts while cranking, it is a corroded cable or cable connection or corroded battery post. It could be either the positive or the ground (or both).

More information is needed. Most dome lights switch on the ground side. If there's more than one switch, it almost has to be this way. That means both bulb contacts have to float (not be grounded). On a single contact bulb, the socket is the second terminal. It could have a single contact bulb and have a floated socket (probably) or it could have 2 contacts in the socket and a special 2-contact dome light bulb. It is probably not a 2-contact bulb in 1937, but check to be sure. Either way, make sure the bulb matches the number of contacts in the bottom of the socket. If there are 2 contacts in the bottom of the socket (there are probably not), make absolutely sure you have a 2-contact dome light bulb and not some other 2 contact bulb. Typical dome light wiring (check and see if yours is like this): 6 Volts >> Bulb (probably on the center contact if it is a single contact bulb). and then... Bulb (one contact, probably the socket of a single contact bulb) >> Switch >> Ground \ Another switch >> Ground \Another switch >> Ground .... and so on, for as many switches as you have. If it is wired like that, the above could be enough to figure it out. Otherwise, you might need to post some pictures of the bulb, the socket, inside the socket, the switch (switches?) and so on.

Because hydraulic brake light switches are an unholy abomination. They are prone to leaking, prone to failing, loaded right to their electrical limit when asked to operate TWO brake lights on a 6 volt car (pretty much eliminating the possibility of brighter bulbs), are usually incompatible with silicone brake fluid, and in their original form require more pressure to operate, delaying brake light warning to the cars behind. Some of the latest ones do have a lower "on" pressure than the old originals, but the brake lights are still more delayed than a properly set up mechanical switch that typically triggers whenever your foot is on the pedal, whether you are slowing or not. Four or five years ago I had one short to ground and try to burn up the wiring harness. I cant imagine why these hydraulic things were still used into the 1960s on some makes, but they were.

I believe some 1930s cars originally used a double female bullet in spots like that. It's not ideal because it's more connections, but I'm pretty sure they did it. I've no idea if that applies to your Lincoln or not.

If the bearing is good it probably wasn't assembled right in the first place. Is there room to push the impeller on another .015" or so?

it appears with those 2 springs to be a Holley loadomatic. No doubt it came new on some 8 cylinder Ford, Mercury, or Lincoln product made between 1949-1956.

@Hans1, I was just looking over the photo attachments that did not work, and for instance the first one, which we all see as a broken link to "IMG_5774.jpg" actually points here: https://outlook.live.com/owa/MSA:hajac1@hotmail.com/service.svc/s/GetAttachmentDownloadToken?redirect=%2fowa%2fMSA%3ahajac1%40hotmail.com%2fservice.svc%2fs%2fGetAttachmentThumbnail%3fid%3dAQMkADAwATY0MDABLTk1MWUtY2MANWQtMDACLTAwCgBGAAADYf%2fh6OrEH0KtconEV035pwcAuhXq3fkunkms%2fIIpp1eUvgAAAgEMAAAAuhXq3fkunkms%2fIIpp1eUvgAGOAyi6wAAAAESABAATsSX%2f8q0KEiCVRE%2b3Jl2uA%3d%3d%26thumbnailType%3d2%26isc%3d1%26X-OWA-CANARY%3ds_1vmahkz0-UQ-33V4lEjDBjE6rzYtsYJ8V_WCFXBiORNLu3vcz9ztHSo7ccDXZ7VJY25QOdvDM.%26owa%3doutlook.live.com%26scriptVer%3d20230519010.07%26animation%3dtrue The others all point to a similar location. These photos appear to be in your Hotmail or Outlook, and that is why none of us can see them. We would all have to be logged into your Hotmail or Outlook! Of course that is not practical. If you can see them, it is probably because you are logged in. For the pictures to work they need to be posted somewhere that is visible by the entire web. Either method in my post above will work. No rush or anything like that, I'm posting now because I noticed why the pictures are not visible. All the best.

As long as you have 2 wires (hot and ground) and neither of those are grounded to the car, you're good. The bulb itself doesn't matter so much. Run the hot wire to 6V(or 12V), and the ground wire goes to the oil pressure switch. As long as the socket is not getting a ground some other way, it will work.

Good luck on your search!

Err... not exactly. Usually the fuel literally runs through the motor, and the commutator, sparks and everything. The fuel is used to cool and lubricate the motor, and keep all the debris washed out of the commutator. Gasoline will only ignite in a specific range of mixtures. Shooting from the hip because I can't remember the exact numbers, that's about 8:1 to 16.5:1 (by weight). The gas tank traps the vapors inside, and the mixture in there is always too rich to ignite, even when you are running out of gas. Don't try to bench test one.

Some pointers: 1) The photo has to be hosted online somewhere, it can't be just on your device. There are 2 approaches. You can upload the photo to the forum, or you can upload it somewhere else, and then drop a link to it in your post. 2) Don't ever expect a picture you took to be right side up. Lots of software has ways for you to view a picture right side up whether it is or not.. for convenience. This gets really annoying when you upload the picture and find out what it's true orientation is, in other words it shows upside down or sideways in the forum after being uploaded, because upside down or sideways is how it truly is. If there's any doubt, open the picture in some software that can EDIT (not just view) a photo and save the new photo after you modify (rotate) it. Do this before you upload to an online host or the forum. Anything that can edit a photo will do. Microsoft Paint can do this. I use something called "Pinta". It's no big deal if a picture is upside down or sideways in the forum, but this is a way to prevent it if you care. 3) One method of posting a picture in the forum: Upload a photo to some online host like imgur.com . Start by uploading the photo to imgur (or another similar service), then copy the link (right click and "copy link location" or "copy image location" or something like that) and then right click and paste to into your post. The picture will appear. 3A) On this particular forum, you can also just right click on the photo (on imgur or whatever similar service you uploaded it to) and simply "copy" the photo and then right click and "paste" into your post. It works here but I'm not sure why. Don't expect it to work in other forums, use "3)" above instead. 4) Another method: Upload a photo to the forum directly. At the bottom of the window you are typing in there is an area that says "drag files here to attach or choose files". Click on "choose files", then browse to the picture you want to upload, and click on it. It should upload into your post. 4A) Alternatively, when uploading to the forum directly, you could just find the picture on your device and drag it to the area that says "drag files here to attach or choose files. That works too.

None of them.... There are so many variations out there it is hard to keep track of. Generally the easiest thing to do is get something like the current Ford Racing "Z" transmission, but with a bunch of caveats. It is on the same standard for fit as the 80s 5 liter Mustang transmission, and directly interchanges with it. The pattern at the bellhousing end is like Ford Toploader and a few others from that period. Probably nothing from the Crestliner period. Easiest road is to see if someone makes an adapter plate to get that transmission hooked to the current bellhousing, and can tell you what clutch to use, etc. The pilot is metric. You might be making a pilot bearing or bushing to fit. The front bearing retainer is also metric, and it needs to register in the bellhousing. An adapter plate might take that problem away. A Jeep retainer fits, is in a US size, and it slightly smaller but might not be a useful size(?). If you change the retainer, you need to re-shim the front bearing. If you can get the front hooked up with no big trouble, then the easiest road is to build the transmission with a GM "S-10" tailshaft housing and shifter. The Mustang tailshaft housing will have the shifter way too far back for 99% of old American cars. The S-10 is too far back also, but less too far back. Having the shifter position at the front of the tailshaft, it can often be made to work. Probably the cheapest way is to have one of the shops that supply T-5s for aftermarket use (Modern Driveline, etc.) build it with the S-10 tail unless you are into transmission rebuilding. Even then the S-10 transmission you need for parts goes at a premium because it has a Muncie/Saginaw bolt pattern at the front, has the S-10 tail, and goes Into an old Chevy comparatively easily. Expensive despite being a so-called "non world class" T-5, fairly weak, with old-fashioned synchros, lousy gear ratios, and internal parts that don't interchange with the "world class" versions. There are some later S-10 T-5s that are a lot better and have the Ford T-5 bolt pattern up front, but those cannot support a mechanical speedometer.

Use water pump grease if the fitting is back by the packing nut and the grease is against water. Penrite make it and some other brand (Lubriplate?) also does. Restoration Supply (of California) stock both of them. https://restorationstuff.com/ If it is just a bearing way in front that doesn't touch water, then it matters less.

1947 Studebaker Champion

That's a "third brush" generator, so whatever you do don't try to run it with the generator wiring disconnected. They burn up if you do that. It would be best to fix the wiring enough that the generator has a battery to charge. If you don't, then short the wire coming out of the generator to the generator case. That should prevent it trying to charge. This advice is *only* for third brush generators. Welcome to the forum!

If you need the boil/freeze protection of ethylene glycol, I suggest Valvoline/Zerex G-05. It probably isn't the only ethylene glycol coolant with anti-foaming properties, but it is one I know of. Old style green formulas tend to foam horribly and push coolant out in unpressurized systems. There are probably a few that don't but I don't know which ones they are. More here: If you live in an area where freezing is not a possibility, and want to run water, you could add soluble oil, also known as machinist's milk oil. It is the same white liquid that was once sold as "water pump lubricant and corrosion inhibitor" in auto parts stores. @edinmass does that but he lives in Florida . @Grimy in San Fransisco uses an additive called Pencool. @Stude Light uses no-rosion, and drains it out in the winter. I don't trust myself to do that in time. The weather turns suddenly where I live, and It's hard to come back from a cracked block. More details here: Several of us are using a stocking or a Gano filter or both to keep the rust and debris that is coming out of the block from plugging the radiator. Details here:

The passenger side lock is normal. Most cars of the period are like that. You were expected to exit on the curb side in those days. I am sure the "cant remove the key" thing is normal. Somebody probably did modify that. I believe you take it apart and grind away some metal. At an Early Times Chapter event (Pontiac) someone was telling me exactly how to do it, but as I wasn't really planning to I didn't take notes.

I had a spare key made so I can just leave it in the slot if I want to.