Bloo

If you can use straight hose, Restoration Supply (of California) has red in 1/2" through 2-1/2" sizes. Page 15 of the downloadable catalog. https://restorationstuff.com/

I doubt that is what Buick intended. Could someone have painted it?

I agree. That bodystyle ran from 1953-56. The grille looks like 1956 to me.

The Chevy is one key. The Dodge is two. The glovebox wont help. Sure would be nice if it did though, that would be easy. 2 screws. Round headed key fits trunk and glovebox. Glovebox doesn't have all the tumblers though, so it isn't enough to get you in the trunk. A key made for the trunk will unlock the glovebox though. It was common practice to write the key codes in the owners manual. THAT might be in the glovebox. The pentastar-headed key fits the ignition and the doors. The code is on the cylinder in the passenger door. Maybe it's on the driver's door cylinder too, but I wouldn't count on it.

It's not pointed at anyone, least of all you. It's just an observation about how some threads around here go in circles with no clear answer. Best regards..

A quick look under the body and under the carpet of some of these cars would tell the story. A 53 Chrysler is a steel body with a steel floor. That is an entirely different situation than a wooden framed body built on sills. The Chrysler, with some gusseting to spread the load out, would probably keep the belts attached to the floor. The body probably won't come off of the frame. The wood body probably has a piece of "floorpan", about as thick as the top of a tin can, nailed from the top into some 80 or 90 year old sticks. The body is probably attached to the frame with about 6 or 8 little carriage bolts through that same old wood. This is shaping up to be like one of those threads where someone has a problem with a car title, and it garners responses from several States, Provinces, and Countries, all of which have different title law.

I feel your pain. AFAIK that doesn't exist for any older cars. Especially Pontiacs. There aren't enough cars, let alone restorers. Scavenge original parts and replate them. Or, make them if you have to. With some help from another forum member I made a headlight reflector screw for my 36 the other day. Repro stuff for Chevrolet probably has a lot of overlap, so maybe some stuff would be at The Filling Station or Chevs Of The 40s. I wouldn't hold my breath. Quality of reproduction parts is often bad. The cheap versions are apparently the ones that sell.

Here's an extreme long shot from 2014, might be worth a PM. Ignore most of the thread. It isn't Pontiac. It is almost certainly Olds due to the short open tail, and maybe even 36. Too bad they didn't show the whole stick. And, an even longer shot from 2013. At least this one has a useful picture that shows what the bend in the stick looks like.

Wanted: One American Prefocus headlight socket, for bulbs like 2330, 2320, 2530 as used in GM cars, Ford, etc. (not 2331 for Chrysler, Nash, Hudson, Studebaker) Wires don't need to be any good, or even present as long as the wafer and contacts are still there. I will unsolder and replace the wires. It doesn't need to be pretty either, but hopefully not so corroded up that the bulb wont make good contact. Make/Model unimportant as long as it is for a 2330 style bulb. I will be using it to make a test adapter to test for voltage right at the bulb. Let me know what you have Thank You.

The trouble is you have to buy parts when they are available, not when you want them.

This guy says he's "parting out" the car, and I see the shifter. Sadly, it looks like the wrong shape https://www.ebay.com/itm/1936-Oldsmobile-Right-Rear-Fender-Parting-Out-Car/114037802722?hash=item1a8d2ec6e2:g:gvkAAOSwWl5eCANi.

The best you can do is get a factory parts book, and educate yourself. The ebay listings are so full of spam it is almost impossible to search. Try putting "1936 Buick" in quotes, or using -fits (minus fits) in your search string. It might help a little.

Have any of you used Vancity Plating in Vancouver B.C.?

Nice!

Did that leave you without a parking brake?

Not for now. If I were going to do that I would have had to plate them nickel instead. I don't know for sure what metals Mance plates, and I didn't ask because one of these reflectors was damaged. One mounting ear was broken off and missing, and another hanging by a thread. I was holding out for a better reflector before seriously considering Uvira. As it turns out, Mance was able to repair/replace the broken mounting ears, and it seems as good as new. Had I known how well it was going to turn out, I could have asked about nickel plating there. Nickel plating from any of the other sources I know would be out three months or more, plus however long Uvira takes (not long I've heard). Silver is original and they came out really nice.

My 1937 Pontiac parts book lists the following: 1935 1936 6, 8 1293309 1937 6, 8 1300475 Be aware that in the last part of 1935, Pontiac changed from a Chevrolet-like transmission to a Buick-like transmission. Therefore, only cars made at the very last of 1935 have a transmission similar to yours. Pontiac continued to use Buick-like transmissions for years, so even though the book stops at 1937, the shifter would be similar right until Pontiac went to a column shift. I do not recall which year they changed. The numbers are different. so there must be some difference, but all of those Pontiacs have a top plate about like yours with the odd mechanism, and any of them would most likely fit in the transmission. Not sure about the car... The 1941 Buick parts manual lists the following for the series 40 (Special) which uses a transmission similar to yours in this period. The larger cars all used a larger, unrelated transmission. 1934 1935 1936 series 40 1291413 1937 1938 series 40 1297397 These too all have a top plate about like yours. There must be something different about them but I have no idea what. Here is a picture of a 36 Olds that was on Barnfinds. 36 Pontiac and 36 Buick 40 seem to have that bend in the shifter way down tight to the floor.

Well, I wont tell you what to do, but if that is the case I would let them do it. Original parts for our old cars are scarce, and the more of them that get documented the better. You would be helping many others as time goes on. On the other hand, maybe it isn't that. Maybe it is just that it is SO much easier to duplicate something when you can hold it in your hand, hold it up to the light, measure little details, etc. Having "reproduced" a few parts for my Pontiac using nothing but horrible pixelated blowups of pictures i found on the Internet, I can really appreciate that. Either way, I'll bet they will make something to your specs. Let us know what happens.

If I am not mistaken, the OP said in a different thread he had permission from the title-holder of the land to remove the cars. You can indeed take the ignition switch out of the dash on a 66 (and probably 60-66) C-10 without having a key, and without removing the lock cylinder from the switch. I just now went out to the driveway and did it. Unscrew the outer ring. In any event it should be unnecessary unless some of the locks have been changed.

The picture of the NOS one appears to be cloth-jacket wire, not asphaltic loom. Those are not the same thing. My R.I. Positive cable is cloth-jacket wire, and additionally has asphaltic loom around it where it passes between the frame and the floor.

Could there be a clock delete option? In Pontiac in 1936, you could get an electric (Borg or similar) clock in the glovebox door. Or, there was also a "mirror watch" (windup clock) available that went in the rearview mirror. Did Buick have similar options? If so there was probably a "clock delete" plate available.

I have battery cables from R. I. Wire on my 36 Pontiac. I am extremely happy with them. I did not have originals to compare, but they sure look "period" to me, and fit perfectly. No funny business on the payment. I don't recall if they take credit cards, but if they didn't I probably sent a money order. I definitely did not do a wire transfer.

Does it look like this? (1960-66, 1966 shown, note the pronounced recess in the side of the body) Or more like this? (1967-1972, 1967 shown, note the smooth waterfall shaped sides) If it is 66 or earlier, inside door release handle pointing toward the rear of the truck (probably), push down to unlock. also, push down to open. If the handle points forward, pull up to unlock or open. Use the side of the truck with no lock in the button, because unlocking is easier than opening, and a locked button will still prevent you from opening the door from outside. If it is 67 or later there is a button to pull up just like on the Dart, either door should work, and a slim jim should work.

The body tag will most likely tell you the original paint scheme as well as the upholstery. I don't have that information for 36 Buick, but someone in here will. Post a picture of the Fisher Body tag from your firewall, and I'll bet you get some good answers.

That is correct. The special tool is to get the whole switch out, and not necessary if you have a key. If you don't, however, it might be a lot cheaper to take the whole switch to the locksmith, rather that bringing the locksmith out into the woods. Hopefully he can just get the code from the door, and avoid all of that.