Bloo

Don't change anything. It looks great the way it is.

Still hazardous, but it has to be a lot better than spraying. There have also been several instances of people using Rustoleum/Tremclad Rust-Stop enamel with some cheap hardener and a brush, and then colorsanding to a decent finish. If I remember correctly several years ago @60FlatTop posted the name of a 2-part surfacer (or was it a sealer?) that was made to be rolled or brushed. There was no distributor within thousands of miles of me. I want some though.

Yep, that's a bad Schrader valve. It should never fall to zero. It should never fall at all until you hit the button, but it could get higher if you keep cranking. In normal operation, it is holding the pressure in the hose. The Schraders fail a lot on compression testers if you use them a lot.

Thanks for the update!

Where do you find information like that?

In my experience lacquers have become completely unusable, so no, that is definitely not an improvement. If you intend to paint the whole car eventually, I would recommend that you NOT go that direction even if lacquer had improved. I say that and I am a fan of lacquer! All the stuff that gets put on should be 2-part, right down to the bare metal, and ESPECIALLY the first coat on bare metal, which should be a 2 part epoxy even if you intend to use some old fashioned finish like lacquer, acrylic enamel, or synthetic enamel. If you are going to use modern paint, it should all be from the same "system" as your painter will use. The problem is the 2-part stuff is dangerous to shoot and requires really good personal protective equipment. In addition to 2-part paints, this is also true of any old fashioned paint that uses an optional hardener, as acrylic enamel and synthetic enamel do, and aren't much good without.

I have not seen or tried that have you? I'd like some if it works like it should. It isn't a rattle can though, so probably isn't going to help for the sort of patches @Fleetwood Meadow asked about. I am intrigued though. Thanks for posting it.

NO! No rustoleum rattle cans for patch work PERIOD, lacquer or otherwise. I have made this mistake. Do not do it. It is almost impossible to get rid of. Lacquer has become unmanageable to use the way we used to use it for patching because the primers, etc. that you might need no longer exist in rattle cans if they exist at all. Don't believe me? Try to find a can of sandable lacquer primer. Once upon a time, all or nearly all sandable primer was lacquer. Spray some lacquer, or whatever is in that can they are calling lacquer over some current "sandable primer" and you will have problems with wrinkling, shrinking, bad adhesion, etc. It will continue to move around and change for at least a year. You can sand it all off if you like, but when you think it is all gone.... it isn't.

You need a standard table and motor assembly. They come with legs/feet, drawer, lamp, knee lift, and some kind of motor. A table with a hole (and maybe the hinges) for a Consew 206RB, 225, 226, etc. will fit. In fact, the design of those Consew machines is heavily based on the 111-W, the 225 being an almost exact copy. A bunch of other brands are also close copies and fit the same hole. The 206RB-5 is still in production in China, and last time I looked was all over Ebay. If you get a table and motor for a 206RB, the 111-W should drop right in. Presser feet, bobbins, and other accessories for this 111-W interchange with several other machines, including some of the Consews, and are readily available. Original motor for this machine would have been a clutch motor. Servo motors have become common, but I have never had one. I don't recommend a clutch motor even though I still use one. Clutch motor operation is an acquired skill that does not come particularly quickly. Clutch motors also come in 2 different RPM, 1725(?) and 3450(?). The pulley can also be changed. NEVER get the faster motor for upholstery and auto trim work, always the slower one. If pulley options are available, get the smallest (slowest) one. You don't need to know any of this unless you are looking at used stuff. Get the servo motor instead. The whole reason they exist is they are easier to control. I agree, and I am tempted but it is a long way away and I don't need it. They call that "Triple Feed" now, a term I don't recall hearing when I was doing auto trim work in the early 80s. This is definitely the type of feed you want for automotive work. Looking at these 31-19, I suspect that's what they do too, walk but don't feed the needle. I have no experience with them. I started out initially on a 31-15 with no walking foot at all. I definitely do NOT recommend that unless someone is looking to spend hours and hours practicing to acquire a lifelong skill. The guy who taught me said "If you can get good results on this, you can sew on anything". He was right. If someone wants to just do a little car work now and then, this is not the way.

Wasn't that tried early on? If not it probably should be. After all "wont run" and "gas running out of the intake" are literaly the exact symptoms of this problem. Referring to the vacuum tank, not the carburetor. It implies that the engine won't pump air. Terry has already verified that the valve and ignition timing have not slipped, and that the valves are not stuck, and that it has compression. I cant explain it. It has to be pumping air. Terry said the weather is at 103 F. Maybe they just don't look wet? I agree it is extremely odd.

Hupmobile too, but I don't think this is one.

Yes. The socket handles at least 2 sizes, maybe three, all that same shape.

If it is a replacement switch from modern times at all, like sometime in the last 60 years or so, and does not have 6 simple hexagonal nut flats, it takes a special socket. The socket fits all of them, at least on American cars. You can just about always get them out with normal tools, but if you can't for some reason maybe you need the socket. I got by for years without the special socket before I bought one. I would keep trying. EDIT: @NailheadBob's link shows the kind of switch I am talking about.

License plate light.

True enough. There are several towns in Washington like that still. It doesn't change anything. From the original post, we don't know if the seller has a Packard. We only know he has some 5 year old pictures of a Packard and a post office box. The original poster says there are various reasons he can't go look. That is unfortunate. I would say either find a way to go look, or don't buy it. The seller should welcome that. Call me a cynic (which I am), but I don't expect the seller to welcome that. I expect some cock and bull story from the seller about how there are multiple people interested, and the original poster needs to transfer some funds right now to secure the sale. Why? because the seller probably doesn't have the car at all. All this could be sorted out by going to look at the car. It would also sort out another possible issue, that being that if the seller does have the car, and paperwork proving he owns it, it's condition may not be the same as it was 5 years ago. If this is an honest seller, there should be no problem having a look. It's a shame the original poster can't.

I have heard horror stories of several different wrong combinations of piston and pushrod that are possible, and of people not being able to get the brand new cylinders to fit at all. I have never run into it myself. I usually overhaul the old ones.

In my opinion, you could buy a nice running driving Lark for less than it would cost to get started with this.

I wonder if they were really police package cars? I am unsure if black and white as commonly used was ever factory paint. Maybe, but white wouldn't surprise me. I used to own a Belvedere police car, a 65. It was light blue metallic, and not two tone. The second digit of the VIN tells the story. A police package has "9" in 1965 (it starts out R9 for Belevedere police), and a "K" in 1966 and several years afterwards (RK for Belvedere police).

I probably wouldn't use the word "performance" in any conversation about vacuum wipers, especially combined with the phrase "full load". What a vacuum pump does is make it so you don't have to let off the gas to get a wipe where there's any sort of a small hill, maybe, if the wiper motor is in good shape. Yours work better than most others.

No. Does your manual have any pictures of the underside of the head? If there is a machined surface over the piston at the far side of the cylinder, like on these head Pontiac heads: Then there is a way. It might even still work if you don't have the machined area. The piston area is at the bottom of the heads in this picture. Fashion a pointer for the front pulley or balancer. Make it so it can't get bent easily or move. Disconnect the battery and take all the spark plugs out. Feed a giant plastic zip tie in through the spark plug hole, which is presumably over the valves. This should be a really big one with a huge head, and a tail way too long to fall in. Feed it in sideways so the head of the zip tie touches the cylinder wall on the far side of the piston. Slowly crank the engine with a wrench until it stops, carefully managing the zip tie so you know it's head is on the far side of the cylinder stuck between the top of the piston and that machined surface. Make a temporary mark on the front pulley or balancer. Now use the wrench to crank the engine the other direction until it stops again with the zip tie caught the same way. Make another temporary mark. Make a third mark between the first two marks. This third mark is top dead center. Myself I would use a paint pen (junkyard marker) rather than cutting on the pulley if possible.

Yes. That cuts through most of the wild goose chases and cars that are not really for sale. FWIW the last time I went tire kicking, I went back a couple weeks later and bought the car. That gets right to what is important. Good advice.

I agree CO2 is another good option that will probably not cause additional damage. I think it is going to be big and heavy compared to Halon or Halotron, but probably more affordable.

We don't know. No current pictures. No physical address. This is 99.98% a scam. People in this thread so far are being nice about it, on the 0.02% chance that the seller is a person not technically inclined, possibly older, possibly physically unable to do the things considered normal to sell a car today. I get that. It might be so, and my aunt Mavis might be an astronaut. That could be sorted out by going to meet the seller, looking at the car, knowing ahead of time what combination of title, registration, and/or bill of sale constitutes legal ownership in the states or provinces involved, buying the car, loading it into a trailer or onto a slideback, and leaving with it. What are you going to do otherwise? Send money to a post office box? Wire the money via Western Union to my long lost half-brother? You can trust him. He's royalty in Nigeria you know. Notice the giant bold type and multiple links in Peter's post above. Scams are pervasive on all car forums today. Peter has posted warnings all over. Nobody reads them. This subject comes up constantly AFTER another person gets scammed. Don't be a statistic.

If you can't go buy it and take possession of it in person, don't buy it.

I doubt anything can quite touch an Optima of their "spiral" type. My first one was bought in 1995 and was stolen when it was 18 years old. It was still working fine. I have had several others, and they no longer have that sort of durability, but they are still worth getting in my opinion. The rectangular AGM batteries I have owned have not held up as well.