Bloo

This one ticked all the boxes for being a scam.

I hope so. I cringe every time I see a newly scammed person post that they have tracked down the scammer's name and address, because it is undoubtedly chosen at random and stolen by the scammer, or just made up. The most likely scenario is that whoever lives at that address is an innocent person who has no idea that any scam has happened until the phone calls and hate mail start coming.

Except that it isn't new. Nearly every carbureted or throttle body injected car has has manifold heat for over 50 years, more like 90. I want to bang my head against the table every time I hear someone say a heat riser is for "cold weather" or "carburetor icing". No it isn't. No doubt it helps with those things, but the real reason is because the gas falls out of the air the first time it has to turn a corner. Then more fuel (more choke) is needed to keep the mixture rich enough for the engine to run, and the liquid fuel runs into whatever cylinders are downhill, washing the rings off, shortening engine life, and diluting the oil. Manifold heat also helps even out the fuel distribution between cylinders. The fuel distribution will never be perfect on a long manifold, but the heat helps immensely. The overall mixture can be leaner if it does not have to be artificially rich to keep the end cylinders from going lean all the time. This results in better driveability, better fuel economy, and reduced plug fouling. These things were all well known in the 20s if not earlier. By the late 30s, engineers were getting pretty good at implementing what they knew needed to happen.

One thing that needs to be understood is that there is no "tracking down" to do in cases like this. Do not make the mistake of believing that "Charlie Duncan" or any of these people that try to scam you are real people. They are not. It is all smoke and mirrors. "Charlie Duncan" will be back tomorrow afternoon or earlier as "Bobby Smith" or "Rudy Jones" or whatever. Any real world address you manage to track down will at best unuseful, and more likely a stolen identity. Everything about it is fake. Our moderators here are really fast to track down and delete this stuff compared to some other sites, but they have to notice it or someone has to report it (note the "report post" button at the bottom of every posting here). The sooner a scam post gets reported the better. The scammers will try to take the conversation off of this site immediately to avoid being noticed. They will want you to contact them or "someone they know who has the parts you need" via some other method, usually email. Maybe phone or text. One thing to keep in mind when posting a want ad: If you put contact info in your publicly viewable ad, like your email address or your phone number, that allows the scammer to contact you directly without even going to the trouble of making an account and logging in here. They love that.

That cannot be. Sure, all the rings could be bad or stuck. There would still be some compression. It would also run. Maybe not good enough to use, but it would run. No compression at all is almost impossible, and if it is 30 pounds or less, there is a 99% chance it is valve trouble of some sort.

I don't know. I am not discounting the idea that residue gets released less if the bowl is full, but I have never heard of it before. To me, this is a way to get a car to fire up right away when the bowl is known to be empty, for instance when the car has been sitting all winter. I probably never filled one all the way. I would have erred on the side of caution in the interest of not running it over. Not all cars have that pipe but it is convenient when they do. Always secure the air cleaner. It can act as a flame arrestor if the car backfires.

Nobody blows up tires from too much pressure. On the other hand underinflation is the most common cause of blowouts. I'm not suggesting running over the max (although it would still be better than running too low). It sure helps to pay attention to tire pressure, and that goes double on hot days.

Down this pipe. A condiment bottle from the dollar store might come in handy.

A blueprint? As if you might have some blocks cast? I suggest you join the Hupmobile Club (the USA one). Fairly recently they have acquired all the surviving factory blueprints. It turns out quite a lot of them survived. They are furiously cataloging and scanning, so I'm told. I imagine it will be a while before it is all done. I have no idea if that particular one has surfaced. I would sure contact them and ask. https://www.thehupmobileclub.com/

Since the heads are done, I think I would just use them, and hang on to your spares. More was learned in the late 80s and 90s about valve seat recession without lead. I turns out it is rarely even measurable in street driven cars. There are always exceptions, but not that many. Heavy use, like heavy towing, dump truck, cement mixer, etc. will probably get valve recession without hard seats.

I suspect it is the same sheetmetal, and the dual headlight pods are add-ons.

The travesty is that the 58 2 door hardtops never got this single-headlight nose.

It's possible it could be sticking on the pin. Whatever it is I hope you can get it sorted. All the best.

The non-detergent thing is sort of a myth with a tiny grain of truth in it. Anyhow, like Rusty, I wouldn't assume it has been running non-detergent oil all these years. I believed that myth fully when I was younger. My first car was made in 1953. I was asking about non-detergent oil. My boss at the gas station I was working at said something along the lines of "When this place opened in 55, we already had multiviscosity detergent oil. They called it "Heavy Duty" in those days and we put it in almost everything". There is an oil filter of sorts on a 51 Pontiac six. It is a reversion type in the oil pickup that uses momentum to trap dirt rather than any sort of paper or filter medium. It isn't intended to need service until 100.000 miles. If you are really concerned about sludge, you could drop and clean out the oil pan. That is a good idea anyway, and you could take that filter apart and clean it out while you are in there.

Now THAT is good to see. That is the sort of a nightmare problem most people could never fix. Kudos for seeing it through.

Do you mean a groove where the needle contacts the seat? If the needle has a groove in it, it is shot. You would need a new needle and seat. I'm not sure I understand. If there is a "sticking position" for the float itself, something is not set up right about the float. The float drop setting probably. Spot on. An afternoon spent nitpicking that function, especially the function of the check valves and the fuel pressure, is worth about 10 electric fuel pumps. This is something that was never checked in the old days, except by guys like me on extreme "tough dog" cars, because it was almost never wrong. The fuel pressure specs were in the old Motor and Chilton manuals. The problem with some newer pumps sure isn't limited to Corvairs. I have seen it on crimped pumps on other cars where you can't do anything about it. The Corvair subject always comes up because the Corvair people realize it is happening and almost no one else does. The float valve in the carb and the diaphragm spring in the fuel pump are fighting each other. If the fuel pressure is wrong the float level becomes wrong as a result. If the float level is wrong the mixture is also wrong, even if the carb doesn't run over.

It has been done a couple of ways on the MTFCA forums. Modification is needed to the front wishbone to take the torque. The stock ones are not really up to the task. They are unlined, There is a better way though. It is called "Rocky Mountain Brakes", a popular period accessory. I believe they are band brakes like many cars of the period. Reproductions may be available new. Panic stops are never going to be good on 30x3.5 tires. Front brakes would help though. Then there is the steering.....

Hi Billy, Those are great pictures. Thank you for bringing us all along on your trip!

Passing that test, especially when real hot, is excellent news. Is the test 100%? No, but it is real good, and after hearing that you tested it hot when it was about to overheat, I am convinced it's fine. No blown head gasket, no cracked head. I believe you said the water pump is sealed, right? And the timing is advanced enough?. There isn't much left. The water pump could be leaking I guess, or have a wrong impeller gap. The radiator could be restricted. What is that coolant? Water or some kind of antifreeze? If it is antifreeze, have you tried the car on water?

LMAO! 🤣 And it's in California no less. This guy should go into standup comedy. I love the car though. Very cool.

I don't know. I think I have seen those loose before. I don't really think they are supposed to be. The old ones weren't loose. Generally speaking, the quality of Standard these days is downright embarrassing. Oh how the mighty have fallen. There is a bright side though. I bought one of those Standard switches about like yours and it worked fine, and has been working fine for 4 years or so. Also, it had a suffix on the part number when compared with the old part number (maybe an "L"?) that means it comes on with less pressure than the old ones did. That is always a good thing. I would clean it up real good and keep an eye on it, and if it's not leaking and the brake lights are working I would run it.

Sounds normal. Fluid will be pushed back until the small port is covered.

It's on the engine. On a late T like that they might also have stamped it on the frame near the brake lever.

@c49er

Brillman https://brillman.com/