still looking

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  1. Nice. Very nice. A few additional pics on his facebook page. Selling for his dad, it said. No engine pics and could use a new dash pad from what i can see. Wish he was on the second coast.
  2. 425 hot rod motor 6 x 2 edelbrock and a flywheel for a clutch Wish I had a spare few grand.
  3. Additionally, someone figured out the adapter for a GM 5spd Bellhousing.htm
  4. You might get more information and replies here about swapping transmissions Or here and here is 4 pages on a hydraulic clutch
  5. I found this info on steering gear boxes. Looks like they are all the same, might be mistaken. The Saginaw gearbox is a rotary-valve type unit using recirculating ball bearings. They are referred to as recirculated ball-type because they use the same ball bearings on both the worm gear and the sector gear to reduce friction within the housing. You will often see this gearbox referred to as an "800" or "605" unit. The only major difference between these two units is how the pitman shaft is held into the unit. An 800 unit has a four-bolt cover on the top of the unit (the end of the shaft opposite the pitman arm spline). The 605 units use a single snap ring that holds a round cover into the top of the housing. GM also used two gearboxes, depending on the weight and size of the model. Station wagons, full-size cars and large front-wheel-drive cars used a heavy-duty gearbox usually identified by GM part number 5687962. These units had a 3.5-inch piston diameter, and the pitman shaft will turn anywhere from 3.5 to four turns between fully locked left and fully locked right. These units were rated at a 17.5:1 steering ratio. Mid-size and smaller models used a steering box tagged 5691676, and these units used a 3-inch piston. The travel on the smaller-piston unit was three to 3.5 turns lock to lock. The mid-size gearboxes were rated at a 14.4:1 steering ratio. Both the 3.5-inch and the 3-inch-bore gearboxes have a .813-inch input shaft diameter, and most will have 31 splines on the input shaft. You can substitute between both of these units. Aside from the mounting bolt pattern (most are 4-bolt mount but there are two different three-bolt mounts, as well), these units are all interchangeable. The more responsive 14.4:1 ratio gearboxes replaced the earlier 17.5:1 ratio boxes in most models by 1973. This is a good thing to remember when you begin your search for a replacement. You can locate one of the basic Saginaw "800" series power steering boxes in one of these vehicles: 1964-'76 AMC 1961-'76 Cadillac, including 1963-'76 Eldorado 1964-'76 Buick and Pontiac full-size cars and Riviera 1973-'76 Regal 1975-'76 Skyhawk, Seville, Monza and Starfire 1965-'76 Chevrolet full-size cars 1967-'76 Camaro and 1968-'76 Nova 1964-'76 Chevelle, Cutlass, GTO, Grand Prix, Lemans, Ventura and Tempest 1971-'76 Vega and 1975 Pontiac Astre 1960-'76 Oldsmobile full-size cars including 1966-'76 Tornado 1971-'76 Jeep Cherokee, Wagoneer, Gladiator and J-series pickups 1972-'75 International Scout and Traveler Many enthusiasts have also found that an easy way to upgrade the handling on your car is to convert to a Saginaw quick-ratio power-steering box. These were original equipment on some mid-size models, and they can be transplanted into most other GM vehicles, if you can locate one from your local pick-a-part. These gearboxes will improve the steering and handling for your car with a more responsive lower gear ratio and also reduce the steering wheel travel to 2.25 to three turns. The 1969-'76 Camaros as well as 1964-'76 Chevelles, Malibus and Monte Carlos also used an optional quick ratio 12.7:1 unit, which will interchange with the higher ratio gearboxes. These are very popular units because they are an easy bolt-in performance conversion. The 1982-'96 S-10 pickups used a 14.0:1 ratio "605" series gearbox, which will interchange into earlier vehicles with some modification. Another option is to use late-model G or F Body units. They were original equipment on 1983-'88 Monte Carlo, 1983-'84 Hurst Olds, 1985-'87 Olds 442, and 1984-'87 Buick Grand National or T-Type. They are also 12.7:1 units and a little more difficult to find, but can be identified by a "YA" marking on the end cap (opposite where the steering column attaches) or by searching for cars with the F41 or Z65 suspension package. All of the Monte Carlo SS cars had these options. These units will reduce steering wheel revolutions from lock to lock down to 2.25 to 2.75 turns. An important thing to remember when interchanging Saginaw gearboxes is to use your original pitman arm and idler arm if possible, to maintain the proper steering geometry. Different body styles have different length idler and pitman arms; for example, the F body arms are longer than those in an A or G body and could cause alignment and front-end clearance problems if used in different body styles. When interchanging between earlier and later GM gearboxes, you will notice the power steering hose fittings are not the same. Later fittings are metric and incorporate an O-ring, whereas all Sixties and most early Seventies units used the standard inverted-flare fittings. Auto parts stores sell standard thread to metric thread adapters in several different sizes that allow you to use your original hoses with the later-design metric gearboxes. The rag joint or steering gear coupler may also have to be changed. These can be obtained with the gearbox when being pulled from the donor car, or new ones are still available from the GM dealerships. The coupler off a 1977-and-up Chevy pickup (GM part number 7826542) works just fine to adapt the early-style steering shaft to the later model gearbox. Rag joints are also available from Lares Corporation, which can assist you with interchangeability questions and the purchase of freshly remanufactured power steering components as well. Lares Corporation 1-800-334-5749 Finding a replacement gearbox for your General Motors car can be very easy because of the abundance of original units available that will readily interchange. Completing an upgrade to a quick ratio steering gearbox can also give your ride some additional handling and make a classic drive like a newer model. Sources AGR Performance 817-626-9006 Classic Industries 800-854-1280 Classic Performance Products 714-522-2000 Firm Feel Suspension 800-347-6426 Flaming River 800-648-8022 K.A.R. Mustang 800-341-5949 Original Parts Group 800-243-8355 Power Steering Services Inc. 417-864-6676 Superior Mustang Parts 888-697-8264 12.7:1 quick ratio installed on the “SS” Monte Carlo, Trans Am, and Firebirds of the ’80′s GM/Saginaw quick-ratio steering box donor car cheat sheet Late Model 12.7:1 quick-ratio gearbox ID markings YA, WS and HX Line Thread Size: M18x1.5 and M16x1.5 Number of Mounting Holes: 3, (missing leg H-pattern) Input Shaft Diameter: ¾-inch Output Shaft Diameter: 1 ¼-inch Number of Turns Lock to Lock: 2 ½ - 3 1984-'88 Monte Carlo/Malibu with Z65 suspension 1983-'88 Malibu, El Camino 1982-'92 Camaro except FE1 soft ride suspension 1984-'87 Regal with FE2 or FE3 sport suspension 1983-'84 Hurst/Olds 1985-'87 Cutlass with 5.0 (VIN code 9) 1982-'85 Trans Am 1986-'92 Firebird except FE1 suspension 1986-'87 Grand Prix with FE2 touring or F41 heavy duty suspension Pre-'76 12.7:1 quick-ratio gearbox Line Thread Size: 11/16 x 18 and 5/8 x 18 Number of Mounting Holes: 4, (H-pattern) Input Shaft Diameter: 13/16-inch Output Shaft Diameter: 1 ¼-inch Number of Turns Lock to Lock: 2 ½ - 3 1967-'76 Camaro, Firebird 1970-'76 Monte Carlo/Malibu 1964-'76 Chevelle 1977-'79 12.7:1 quick-ratio gearbox Line Thread Size: 11/16 x 18 and 5/8 x 18, Number of Mounting Holes: 3, (missing leg H-pattern), Input Shaft Diameter: ¾-inch, Output Shaft Diameter: 1 ¼-inch Number of Turns Lock to Lock: 2 ½- 3 1977-'79 Camaro, Firebird-1977-'79 Monte Carlo, Malibu-1977-'79 Chevelle
  6. Wondering if you were able to get any mordern compounds, like a Carbotech or Axxis Ultimate.
  7. Do you have any additional info or pictures on that car ? Nicely done, except for that shifter.
  8. After 25 years in storage i would be surprised if the gas had not solidified in the lines bought a 50 Merc years ago from storage and i had to drill out the fuel lines to get gass to the carb. Could be your issue.
  9. looks like AC PW remote mirror tint glass PSeats and radio
  10. As stated, it would be chancy just replacing the ring with another used ring gear. Alternatively you could replace them as a set, used. The posi is the gem. If you had an open diff with the gears you like then (I think, there was a case of different carriers with more race gear sets in chevs, maybe not in Buicks) you could replace the carrier (the open) with your posi. ad use those gears. Setup is not that difficult. But just use the gears you have now. Should be fine Hope this helps
  11. Not necessarily so. I have always used thread locker on these bolts to prevent them from backing out, as you have experienced. From what i can see in your pics, it appears to be only the outer parts of a few teeth on the ring that are damaged. For the purpose of daily driving and cruizing the gear would be fine. If it were disassembled it, i would grind off the rough outer edges.
  12. So i am wondering if the front sheetmetal fenders hood and bumper fit onto the 67-69 cars ? I can see it fitting on the 68/9 but unsure of the 66-67. Have not had a chance to explore the cars and check myself. Sometimes i have seen where mfgs have used the same chassis and changed the rad support, making sheetmetal swapping more difficult. But as the chassis remained through these years i think it should be possible. The hidden wipers on the 68-70 might limit the 70 swap to 68-9. Anybody know ? Thanks in advance
  13. Sweet ! i can see why this in on CD for you. Do you remember slippin and sliding on skinny bias plys ? I do, it was fun, even on WideOvals.
  14. Agree with carbking. Check for a vaccuum leak. Could even be at the intake manifold gaskets.
  15. Saw this car on CL. I like the body and the silver interior. But at that price i would want it to be correct and complete. The interior seat covers look to be redone in a less than professional maner to me. The mismatching interior panels could be of concern at that price. It has a 64 steering wheel and the wrong air cleaner as well. Missing AC compressor, what will that cost to replace ? and charge and check the hoses for integrity ? Seems to me that the door handles are needing adjustment as they do not sit level. The rear bumper is twisted on the drivers side and the hood point looks to be bent down. Lastly from the pics the undercarriage seems to have been done cheaply. Just me or does anyone else see this ?
  16. Perhaps you are boiling the fluid. Is it fine cold ? Does it get progressively worse ? Is this since the conversion ? Have you checked for leaks ?
  17. Try searching for Classis car rentals on the net. Some cities have such businesses. Most do not you to leave the state you rented it in and may place an hour limit ad well. Maybe there is a member willing ? Or buy one in the Boston area for your trip and sell it after. here is a 84 for 6500 An 83 for 7500 another 84 for 3500 And an 82 for 6500
  18. Called on that 68. No engine or trans or suspension maintenance done. AC and wipers needs repair. Front bumper looks tweeked a bit. Clean and straight bench seat column shift model.
  19. Now there, is a bargain. $819.88 shipped to your door. But you are correct, looks like it.
  20. Front bumper looks tweeked. Hood may be bent. I also like it with the rocker trim. Tires need replacing. Nice custom though. Would have liked to read more about the car in the add.
  21. "The Rivieras that are done, in good driving condition, should all be valued over 20K, but people keep settling for cheap money so they can get quick sales. " That is because there are more cars for sale than there are buyers willing to pay those prices. Personally, I think these cars are Priceless ! BUT, value is determined by what a reasonable person is willing to pay for an item. Not what the seller thinks it is worth, or even what the seller has paid into it. If I see a car listed at 28K, in my mind I would feel comfortable in offering 10%, maybe 15% less. But not 20 or 25% less. I see this as being seen as insulting, by the seller. And that is not a good footing to start negotiations on. So if the price is too high I don't even consider it, despite caveats like "OBO" or "Negotiable". For buyers, listings are mucking up the market with an "I Don't Want To Sell It Price". When everyone raises their prices to those "I Don't Want To Sell It Prices" the market stagnates till a happy medium is found. Till then, Nothing sells. And, how many people do you know with 28K, 36 or 100 in their pocket ready to spend on a toy ? Seems like a nice dream, if you can get it. There are far more opinions on pricing than there are ready, willing and able buyers willing to fork over their cash. Buy, hey, all sellers think their car is worth more than it is and all buyers think is worth less. Go figure.
  22. I would drive it. Would be nice to see the sail panels but as it is from a restorer they probably are in great shape. $15 seems high for an entry bid but they are serious.