Black River

I keep popping back on every few months waiting to see my Black River show up again, but no luck so far. Last I heard it was in the mid-west not looking nearly as sharp or shiny sitting outside, but that was a year or two ago.

https://wenatchee.craigslist.org/cto/d/leavenworth-1965-buick-riviera/7550499240.html 1965 Buick Riviera - $15,000 (Leavenworth) 1965 Buick Riviera condition: good cylinders: 8 cylinders drive: rwd fuel: gas odometer: 26860 odometer broken paint color: blue title status: clean transmission: automatic 1965 Buick Riviera runs and drives great. New battery, exhaust and Edelbrock Carburetor.

https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/d/portland-1963-buick-riviera/7550374163.html 1963 Buick Riviera - $58,500 (PDX) 1963 BUICK RIVIERA condition: like new cylinders: 8 cylinders drive: rwd fuel: gas odometer: 18000 paint color: green size: full-size title status: clean transmission: automatic type: coupe ******************** COLLECTORS AND DEALERS WELCOME ***************************** The First Documented 1963 Buick Riviera in the Northwest! Ordered new from the factory by a Doctor in Gresham, OR in 1963. The car was then purchased by a local business owner in 1966 with all documentation since New! After 54 years of his ownership I was able to make a couple of purchases out of his personal car collection and this is a truly once in a lifetime opportunity to own the most original Riviera on the planet! Factory Optional 425" 465 Wildcat Motor (extremely rare and impossible to find). Recent $4000.00 paint detail bringing this paint to show quality! This is one of the fastest appreciating cars in my collection and will certainly see prices north of $100K. You will never find an example like this in absolutely PERFECT working order! Stunning in person and always the Main Attraction everywhere you take it! ******************** CASH ONLY PLEASE - NO DREAMERS THIS IS THE REAL DEAL *****************

As Tom said, there's two screws holding the lid on. Loosen them and you can get some adjustment out of it.

Picked up another set off eBay today

Well, I started a new "hobby" collecting and restoring valve covers, which I needed to do because the 5 other things I've got taking up all my time and money weren't enough ...anyway, so I'm on the lookout for any brand's V8 valve covers. Singles are alright, don't need to be sets. They don't need to be mint, small dings are ok, because they're just going to be wall hangers so I'll be doing some body filler on them anyway. The more interesting the better, and aftermarket or stock is great, but only after vintage parts. Not after things like Chinese chrome SBC covers. The ones I already have are: '63 Nailheads, 2 versions of "Power by Ford" 385 series, "Power by Ford" FE series, a couple versions of SBC and BBC, and I just picked up a factory set off a Chevy 409. PM me if you've got anything I might be interested in, really, really looking for the different versions Oldsmobile Rockets and a finned factory aluminum Thunderbird. Thanks!Lucas

I found a lot of things different between my early build '63 and even just later on '63s when I was buying parts for it during it's rebuild. Different sized fuse panel cover, for one. Never did locate one that fit, and I bought 3 that were supposedly correct.

Is your starter wired up yet? I remember mine had violet and yellow going to it, don't remember a connector like that, though.

Thanks Jason! Had to sell the beloved Riviera to get it, but it has always been the other (realistic) dream car of mine besides the Mach 1.

Thanks Yep, was a labor of love for a few years, lots and lots of work. Miss it but couldn't afford my '60 Coupe Deville without sacrificing it. Build thread from the time I picked it up until it got loaded on the trailer for the new owner: http://v8buick.com/index.php?threads/my-63-riviera-custom.316125/

1996 Riviera for sale on the V8 forum. Briz is a really good guy: http://v8buick.com/index.php?threads/96-riviera-titled-parts-car.360601/

20x8.5 and 20x10 Ridler 695s on my former Riv.

Not a Riv, but none for me, either. Luckily my paint was ok and I just had to buff the edge a bit. You want a car to look like it's one piece as much as possible from a design flow point of view. The less things breaking up the profile, the better.

X2 on what Tom said. If you're going to pay someone else to do it, Jim W is the man for the job: http://www.trishieldperformance.com/

Nope, not off base, just a lot of misinformation and old wives tales out there about AvGas 100LL. It's all we had back in the day for race engines and before hardened seats became a thing on rebuilds. Like I said, years and years of real world experience running it instead of hearsay with nothing but positive results on anything that is not fuel injected, and the only reason not to run it on those is because it will foul O2 sensors.