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Black River

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About Black River

  • Birthday 10/13/1979

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  1. As Tom said, there's two screws holding the lid on. Loosen them and you can get some adjustment out of it.
  2. Well, I started a new "hobby" collecting and restoring valve covers, which I needed to do because the 5 other things I've got taking up all my time and money weren't enough ...anyway, so I'm on the lookout for any brand's V8 valve covers. Singles are alright, don't need to be sets. They don't need to be mint, small dings are ok, because they're just going to be wall hangers so I'll be doing some body filler on them anyway. The more interesting the better, and aftermarket or stock is great, but only after vintage parts. Not after things like Chinese chrome SBC covers. The ones I already have are: '63 Nailheads, 2 versions of "Power by Ford" 385 series, "Power by Ford" FE series, a couple versions of SBC and BBC, and I just picked up a factory set off a Chevy 409. PM me if you've got anything I might be interested in, really, really looking for the different versions Oldsmobile Rockets and a finned factory aluminum Thunderbird. Thanks!Lucas
  3. I found a lot of things different between my early build '63 and even just later on '63s when I was buying parts for it during it's rebuild. Different sized fuse panel cover, for one. Never did locate one that fit, and I bought 3 that were supposedly correct.
  4. Is your starter wired up yet? I remember mine had violet and yellow going to it, don't remember a connector like that, though.
  5. Thanks Jason! Had to sell the beloved Riviera to get it, but it has always been the other (realistic) dream car of mine besides the Mach 1.
  6. Thanks Yep, was a labor of love for a few years, lots and lots of work. Miss it but couldn't afford my '60 Coupe Deville without sacrificing it. Build thread from the time I picked it up until it got loaded on the trailer for the new owner: http://v8buick.com/index.php?threads/my-63-riviera-custom.316125/
  7. 1996 Riviera for sale on the V8 forum. Briz is a really good guy: http://v8buick.com/index.php?threads/96-riviera-titled-parts-car.360601/
  8. 20x8.5 and 20x10 Ridler 695s on my former Riv.
  9. Not a Riv, but none for me, either. Luckily my paint was ok and I just had to buff the edge a bit. You want a car to look like it's one piece as much as possible from a design flow point of view. The less things breaking up the profile, the better.
  10. X2 on what Tom said. If you're going to pay someone else to do it, Jim W is the man for the job: http://www.trishieldperformance.com/
  11. Nope, not off base, just a lot of misinformation and old wives tales out there about AvGas 100LL. It's all we had back in the day for race engines and before hardened seats became a thing on rebuilds. Like I said, years and years of real world experience running it instead of hearsay with nothing but positive results on anything that is not fuel injected, and the only reason not to run it on those is because it will foul O2 sensors.
  12. I've been running 50/50 mix of 100LL and pump non-ethanol 91 octane in my 13.5:1 552 cubic inch iron head Ford for 13 years. Ran the same mix on the nitrous oxide 351 Cleveland that was in it for 15 years before that. Without the 100LL it'll ping itself to death, with it we're good to go. We also ran the same in our drag cars since I was just a little tyke and my Dad drag raced back in the 80s, because there was no such thing as the internet and race gas wasn't readily available. My older brother ran it straight in his 11 second Chevelle..... I've heard plenty of naysayers and have yet to have someone actually give me a reason why not to run it. Usually I get the "because it's dry" excuse, whatever dry fuel means and it seems the people that tell me that can't explain it, either. I ran it in my Riviera, and I run it in both my Cadillacs, I ran it in my 2 stroke race bikes and I still run it in my 2 stroke 200 hp 800 cc snowmobile. And I put the little few ounces left in the bottom of my 5 gallon jugs into my lawn mower, because nothing smells better then "race gas" and fresh cut lawn. I've heard the "theories", but I personally have nearly 30 years experience running it in my cars and other equipment, and many others have even more. It's $4.50/gallon, and that's cheap insurance to me.
  13. Hello, I have some leftovers from my '63 I sold a while ago. I'm looking to get $90 for all of it plus shipping. I think I should be able to get all the parts in 1 or 2 USPS flat rate boxes, otherwise shipping cost will be from 59801. Ok, here's the list. I have: 1) complete set of Trim Parts exterior door handles and gaskets. New, never installed. 1) set of brand new never installed TS 197 Napa brake shoes for the front. 1) new never installed passenger side Soffseal quarter to front glass seal. My car only needed the driver's side, so this is a leftover. 2) good used front shocks, part number 739087 (I believe these are Gabriels). Missing some of the upper rubber bushings and washers. Removed only because I lowered the car. 2) good used rear shocks, part number 739609 (Believed to be Gabriels as well). Removed only because I lowered the car. 1) lower dash panel cover for driver's side. I believe it goes over the fuse panel, did not fit my early build '63. My car was rewired so there was nothing under it when I got it. It's black, but it would need to be repainted. 1) 4 blade fan. Take some or take it all, it will be $90 plus shipping and I'll just toss what isn't wanted/needed in the recycle bin. Scuff plate and rear window trim pictured have already been tossed in the garbage because it wouldn't be worth the shipping cost for you to get them, they were rough. Give me a call or text at 406-214-5397. I don't get on here much, so text or call would be your best bet. Thanks for your time! Lucas
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