first64riv

Hey all, I was surfing the web and I came across this 1965 Riviera. https://www.anderhartspeed.com/completed-projects/1965-buick-riviera/ The shop states that it is using " a Cadillac brake booster, Wilwood tandem master cylinder and combination valve " Could someone ID the year Cadillac the booster is used on? Any guesses? Thank you in advance. Chris

This thread grew some legs. I know the right way to flush out a cooling system would have been to recirculate until it turned clear. But I was hesitant since the previous owner did the water pump about two years ago. Draining was to give me a baseline and to see what condition the coolant was in. Regarding the hose...it was in great condition. It was just tough to remove. Heating the rubber was just a trick I learned through maintaining my pool at my old place. It definitely made my life easier. Chris

Tom, I wanted to revisit this and ask, since the shift shaft is welded is there any grinding involved in the process during replacement? Thank you Chris

Hey all, I was going to do a flush but I decided not to. For those of you who were interested in doing a quick drain and fill of their radiator here are some tips... 1. There is no petcock on the OE radiator. I drained mine through the lower radiator hose. 2. If you don't know the age of the hose, or it looks like you need a new one, replace it now. 3. If the lower radiator hose is "stuck" and won't budge, carefully use a heat gun to make the rubber more pliable. 4. My radiator drained about 2 gallons (8 quarts) of coolant. I ran another half gallon of distilled water through it. 5. I poured in a little over 8 quarts to get the coolant an inch below the neck. Overall, I was pleased that my radiator wasn't that dirty or sediment filled. A picture is attached. I hope that helps someone that is looking to do something simpler than a full flush! Thank you Chris

Happy Thanksgiving Buick fam! It's always a pleasure to read posts and advice from everyone. Chris

I guess I'm just looking for something to do. The car drive fine. I just need to enjoy it in it's current state. Thanks Tom!

Chassis manual is at home on my night stand...35 miles away. I figure I'd ask here. Chris

Hey guys, I've been wanting to change my diff fluid but i can't seem to locate anything about draining a 1964 diff. I've read all about the fill plug and I've got that. How are you all draining your diffs? I am pretty sure the fluid is 55 years old. Thank you. Chris

I agree with what everyone has said. Also, don't let your emotions get in the way (if they are). You don't want the wrong car especially considering where you are located. Take your time as others have said and get the right car.

All, Before I go buy some Supertech Heavy Duty oil, is Zinc and ZDDP the same thing? I found a datasheet/PDS for Supertech Heavy Duty motor oil and it shows a zinc level of 1,298ppm. This is one of the highest levels I've seen out there. Here is the datasheet: http://pqiadata.org/SuperTech15W40.html# Thank you Chris

If the engine actually turns over and starts, that may make it worth 6k. But I think it is a high price at face value. If it fires but has issues, the post sale costs start to add up and you can be in for unexpected thousands in getting the car to a sound state, assuming you keep the Nailhead.

Nice stable.

I just saw this. The car color combo is the same as mine! The previous owner painted it white but eventually I would like to get it back to original. Nice job and great brother! Chris

Edited for misinformation. Chris

I think the rears are a lot easier than the fronts. You may want to tackle those first to get some confidence...if you need it. I plan on doing the front suspension myself but just haven't gotten the time to order parts. Maybe it's more a money thing than time. Haha. Good luck and try to take pics as you go. Chris

I think there is a carb shop in Escondido. I know they have ads on Craigs from time to time. Just look for ads of a guy selling rebuilt carbs. Chris

I'm a bit of a wheel whore. I have a set of 5 1964 Wildcat wheels, a set of 5 Appliance Wire wheels, and the Supremes currently on my car. This is a pair of Dayton's that I want to pick up but I'm starting to realize the other accessories will make these wheels add up. They are brand new though....the struggle is real man!!! Thank you for your thoughtful replies. I have the Truespoke Supremes in a 15x7 Reverse Backspace 1.75" or 57mm offset. That's the rub (so to speak). I had to bang the inner fender to stop the rubbing and get slimmer tires.

Thank you for the input. I am aware of tire sizing. I threw out 195 because I am currently running 15x7 with a negative offset and I rubbed the fender well in the rear with a 195. I had to switch to a 185 tire. So with a x8 I could probably get away with at least a 195. My car is not a low rider. It's just lowered with Supremes. Funny you say that though because the wheels I found are Dayton wires. I'm only interested because they're on sale for a steal of a price. Thanks for the reply! Chris

Thanks everyone!

Hey all, I've searched but nothing definitive. Will a 15x8 with 4.00" backspacing fit the rear wheel wells of a first gen? I would do 195 size tires. My hunch tells me this will fit. Chris

You won't get verbal lashings on this forum. The guys on here are pretty nice about it. They will tell you to search but they won't make you feel bad about it. Thank you for sharing what you did, the brake work turned out nice. Chris

Sorry I didn't see this sooner. Emblem adhesive is at the local parts store. Walmart has this... https://www.walmart.com/ip/3M-Plastic-Emblem-and-Trim-Adhesive-03601-1-oz-Tube/16913676?adid=22222222227009963383&gclid=Cj0KCQjw9JzoBRDjARIsAGcdIDVnHvbXPQ_vbIwyPjWmVVbBQxU9qjh3aWfaCMR8lqFWZ4nAEi9A-JwaAm4pEALw_wcB&selectedSellerId=0&veh=sem&wl0=&wl1=g&wl10=8175035&wl11=local&wl12=16913676&wl13=2288&wl13=2288&wl2=c&wl3=42965945432&wl4=aud-566049426705%3Apla-81457922792&wl5=1014327&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wmlspartner=wlpa

Bill, I use emblem adhesive for my emblems. But with the screw does it need adhesive?

I got a response from my co-worker...I took out the images he had because they did not show in when i cut/pasted. Chris, It might be the high voltage power supply for old tube radios (but I don’t understand the push button unless it had a latching power function. If that “capacitor” is really a vibrator, which is a mechanical device to make and break electrical contacts to create a varying voltage to be used in the transformer to boost the output voltage to achieve the high voltages for what was called the B+ voltages to run vacuum tubes. Here is a typical schematic: The tube (the full wave rectifier shown in the middle above) could be what is now rep[laced by high voltage diodes. Here is a link to more information: https://radioremembered.org/vpwrsup.htm

I'm going to send this thread to a coworker. He's a ham radio guy. Maybe he can confirm. Stay tuned...