first64riv

Man, I wish I had known you were in the area sooner. I lived in Carmel Mountain but still work in Carlsbad. So I'm doing the commute. Fortunately, it's not as bad as Pre-COVID. I hear you on the maintenance. I have a log and it surprises me how much time goes by from one maintenance day to the next!

I'm up in Temecula (live in San Diego up until two years ago) and we had ash on our cars this morning. I need to get my car out but it's been way too hot. I'm glad you got your issue sorted. I have the Edelbrock 1411 and I had some issues last week. It turned out I didn't let it fast idle long enough for it to warm up fully. Choke closed up and I couldn't get it started until I manually opened the choke back up. We are definitely spoiled by this "cold" start weather. Chris

I use Moog and that's the only brand I'll buy. I recently refreshed my front end with Moog parts. No complaints. Chris

I'm not at home and I need to place the order. Otherwise, I would consult the manual. Besides, if we all just went straight to the manual, we wouldn't encourage dialog on the forum! I hope this thread, along with my other threads, helps someone out down the road. Chris

Thank you all! Ed - I've got both manuals and I do work on my own car. Do I think I'm good enough too...probably not as good as some...but it keeps me busy. Chris

Spoke too soon... I need the pan to block bolts. Not the drain bolt. Chris

Thank you! I googled it but nothing came up for specifics. I will use part geeks next time. "Teach a man to fish..." Chris

Hey all, I did a search and came up with nothing. Could someone please tell me the thread pitch and length of an oil pan bolt for a 425? Thank you Chris

If I follow what you're saying, Jim, I'll be having a Homer Simpson "Doh!" moment in the near future.

I ordered a dual master but have not installed it yet. I ordered AC Delco part number 18M1025 from Amazon. I believe it is the short piston version. Do a web search for that part number or get it off Amazon. Chris

John, i am using an Edelbrock carb and I made a bracket and mounted a microswitch to the carb base to actuate my kick down on a 64. You can see what I made if you search for microswitch or look at my profile and view my current posts. I hope that helps! Chris

Try Cooper tires. I got my set from Pep Boys. Nevermind...you stated they don't come in your size. Move along, nothing to see here. Chris

Just took it out for a drive. The kickdown definitely works! Much more consistent than the old worn factory switch. Chris

Jon, That info is very thought provoking. It's definitely from a perspective from a guy that's been there done that. I appreciate the input to this thread. I'll have to pick up a book on carburetors and see how they actually work. For now I'm happy knowing my car has no issues even though it has so much more potential. Chris

Hey Guys, I thought I'd start a new thread rather than continue my carb spacer thread. I had to cancel my order for the Edelbrock microswitch because it's been discontinued. Instead, I decided to CAD one up and 3D print it. Here are some images... Sorry about the dark blurry image that shows the actuator hitting the linkage. This mounts on the passenger side stud facing the firewall, beneath the fuel inlet. I have four more switches and can make more brackets if anyone wants one. PM me for a price. I haven't had a chance to try it but I compared the old switch to this microswitch and they behave the same. Thanks and I hope this helps someone out! Chris

Not sure if this was mentioned yet or not but Moog offers springs for our cars. Here are the PN's for the stock springs: Front 5030 with AC, 5396 without AC Rear 5035 Chris

John, I will preface by saying, I am by no means an expert on carbs and this is the second car that I've owned with a carb on it. The first was a poorly tuned 66 Impala with a 283/2bbl. That car ran fine, never stalled, but always seemed a little on the edge of dying. With that said.... After realizing the prev owner used a later model carb and had bailing wire holding the choke to an always open state, I ended up buying the 750CFM Edelbrock. I bolted the carb on and it fired up with zero issues. Out of the box driveability is great. No stumbling, hesitation, or misfires. I feel consistent power throughout the RPM range up to about 3500 or so. I rarely heavy pedal the engine. It's not in me anymore. I did do a tune on it using a vacuum gauge and it didn't seem to detract from the performance. Meaning, it felt right out of the box. I attribute this to my locale with respect to Edelbrock's factory. I am in Temecula, CA and Edelbrock is a little ways west of here. I believe Edelbrock tunes and tests the carbs at the plant under Southern CA conditions, so as long as the engine is happy, the carb should perform well for So Cal customers. Again, that's my assumption...it makes sense in my mind at least. So to answer your questions; Drive-ability: Great! No issues and I have no fear getting in the Riviera and taking it a long distance. Any adjustments: No internal adjustments. Fuel Consumption: Couldn't tell ya! It's probably terrible by today's standards. Good for 401: I'd say go for it, there is also a 650CFM AVS2 series which may work well with the 401 if 750 seems too much. Regarding the microswitch, I've already placed the order with Ecklers. If it works I will report back! Chris

Jon, I added the spacer for sh!ts and grins. I'm not trying to pull every last bit of power from this car. It was more of a "hey, what else can I mess with without breaking the bank" kind of thing. I never really had issues with hot starts myself but I did notice that it started immediately after being parked in my garage overnight. I thought that was very unusual. I just chalked it up to evap. I'm still new to carbs so I really appreciate the info you provided. Chris

John, I have the Edelbrock 750CFM with e-choke. I don't have the SP transmission so I only need the kickdown contact to engage. Here's the microswitch: https://www.edelbrock.com/kickdown-microswitch-for-gm-th400-and-all-edelbrock-square-bore-carburetors-72280.html Chris

I'm not sure how many of you guys have carb spacers on your cars but I decided to add one for the heck of it. Nothing difficult about the installation. I do need a new way to get the tranny to kickdown but I'll solve that with the Edelbrock microswitch. I also had to purchase studs for the carb (longer) and the air cleaner (shorter), and a low profile air filter. Everything else stayed the same. Took it for a drive this morning and I'm not sure if it's my imagination but the fuel delivery sounds different, in a good way. It also helped with the hot starts and fuel bowl evaporation. Thank you Chris

That's the next project. They are likely originals. Chris

That's a good question. I believe I tried it a couple weeks ago and it would NOT hold in L. Chris

Hey all, I noticed this immediately after changing out my shift shaft seal. I can engage and lock the shifter into all gears except "L". Is this normal? It's not a big deal and the car drives and shifts smoothly. If it is not normal, what could be the cause? Chris

It's so coincidental seeing this thread. I just put about 20 yards of Sierra White Vinyl into an online shopping cart. I am hoping to be able to sew the upholstery myself. I would agree with DDDDDan and have it done in your home country. I believe you will need either Madrid Vinyl or Sierra Vinyl to match the OEM grain. Chris

UPDATE: I finally got around to doing the shift shaft seal replacement. The job is straight forward. I did not use any special tools, just a large bolt the same diameter as the inner diameter of the seal. The old seal was the metal style outer with a rubber inner. I used the National PN 8792s seal. Tips: the seal will not install with just finger strength. You will need to use something to punch it in. In my case, I used the head of an over the oven microwave bolt to punch it in with a ball peen hammer. Also, remember the orientation of the gear a shift pawl. I'd recommend taking a picture of it. I did not do this and I was worried as all hell when I reinstalled. Just the thought of screwing it up and having to redo it all worried me. Fortunately it went back together fine. The transmission pan gasket, the bane of my existence, is finally sealed using a Felpro gasket. It looks like the fiber style. I also ditched my previous stamped oil pan for an AC Delco chrome pan. I'm not sure what helped to aid in stopping the leak but I also installed everything completely dry. I hope this info helps someone in the future. If there are any questions, I am happy to answer. If I can do it, so can you! Thank you, Chris