first64riv

do you have a picture of the "push button"? Chris

i believe I set mine according to the timing marks of the indicator next to the balancer. Do you have that indicator still installed?

I think you've hit the nail on the head with "money is no object" statement. When these guys go on TV, I am sure there is some monetary exchange between the producer and the shop that goes towards the vehicles they are restoring. Otherwise, I'm not sure they would risk as much as they do (unless they are veterans of the industry). For example, I was watching Big Easy Motors and from what I can tell, the owner of the company has a second business that is unrelated to the auto industry. So, I suspect the business may float his auto resto business from time to time. Lastly, when these guys are asked to buy cars for others, then money usually is no object. Chris

Is it slamming hard all the time or just at a particular time i.e. warming up or high idle?

I'm looking for the interior chrome A-pillar trim. Chris

Haha. I need the interior trim piece. I'll take one in any condition but I'm sure a bad condition piece will be more in line with my budget. Don't get me wrong, I don't want it to be rusty and one good finger poke away from disintegration. I guess the right words are "driver condition". Thank you Chris

Hey guys, I'm looking for a driver side A-pillar (for a 64). I'm not looking to buy one for a bunch of money so if any of you have a bad looking one...let me know what you want for it. Thank you Chris

i agree, two birds, one stone. When I decide to inspect and change my oil pan gasket, I'll also change my motor mounts. I'm sure mine are original and shot. Chris

I was able to install one line without raising the engine. I forget which line. If you can wait I'll update you this weekend. Chris

I would love to pick this up but you're on the opposite end of the country. Good luck!

I have the copper kit, picked it up a couple days ago. I plan on twisting it around some PVC to create some "coils" in the line. Hope that's what you mean. I'll do the same for the water temp probe since it's pretty rigid. I didn't think of that one. Well, regarding the heater, since I use a manual valve (for now) my heat is always on or off. I may have to figure out an alternative route for the temp probe. For the ammeter, I'll look into a fusible link. I am definitely concerned of fire. I'll keep you all posted! Chris

Thanks Tom. I'm not a fan of electric gauges. These are mechanical. Could I plumb into the heater hose? I'm aware of the MANY problems with the ammeter. I'm going to be very diligent in making sure it's secure. Chris

Hello all, I'm planning to install a water temp, oil pressure and ammeter gauges very soon. I've already got all the bits and pieces I need but I have a question regarding where to tap into for the water temp gauge. I know the ideal location is the same place the temp sensor is located but I purchased a tee with the intention of plumbing into the heater hose. My question is, which hose do I plumb into? I plan to plumb into the driver side hose that comes off the water pump. Would that be okay? For the oil pressure gauge, I already have my tee to plumb into the oil pressure switch. For the ammeter, I am doing the standard wiring using 10ga wire. Thank you Chris

When I had my 66 Impala, the forum guys were always writing about finding their build sheets and protect o plates. I guess for Buick Riviera's, we are lucky if we have the original window sticker. Good luck in your search. I'll be tearing out my interior in a couple months. Chris

Awesome story! Happy birthday...mine is tomorrow!

Kevin, it's a classic car policy and it's insured for a stated value. Those are the exact terms my agent just relayed to me. Chris

Kevin, sorry for the delayed reply. Yes, the agreed value is through my local agent. No special channels. I will find out what the policy is called. Chris

I have State Farm and they cover an agreed value. Chris

Rubbing the grime off felt like I was scratch g a lottery ticket. 3827S. Not a winner.

Tom, I don't see any markings. I believe it is a 65/66 Riviera carburetor. I took pictures and will send them to you by PM. Give me some time, I'm trying to make a Home Depot run and you know those trips can get. Mission creep....

Is this for the front and rear?

So both are square type drives, but Posi's are males and open's are female. The dead on angle of the image is a bit deceiving but I will assume it's a "male" square drive bolt and confirms Tom's statements. Chris

Oh that's right. The tube went into the choke to heat the spring. That's right! It's all coming back to me now. Thanks for jogging my memory...I'm too young to be coming down with CRS (can't remember sh..).

Ed, you asked me the same question regarding the kick down in another thread. Here is a picture: I used a right angle bracket with a 4-40 screw and a couple of nuts. I've attached an image. I hope that helps. In regards to the choke. The edelbrock has an electric choke. So I used that. Now if you're wondering what i did with the tube that goes from the carb to the exhaust manifold, well I bought some tubing and cut it to about 8 inches. I inserted one end into the manifold and i crushed the other side using vise grips. This basically closed off the hole in the exhaust manifold that was putting exhaust fumes into the engine originally meant for the carb..

I've got a carb that came with my 64 but I replaced with an Edelbrock. I'll check the model this weekend. Chris