mike6024

California has different standards for different vehicles and years. When I had my 1976 with carburetor and no catalytic converter it could pass if hydrocarbons (HC) were below 300 ppm, but it could be adjusted to give about 100 ppm or even below that so I would get it to pass easily even if at 120 ppm. My 1987 Japanese import with fuel injection and catalytic converter was I think 100 ppm or less to pass, and i failed and needed a new Cat which brought it below 100 ppm easily. And now my 2002 Toyota pickup has 58 ppm HC as allowable max and it passed last time with 19 ppm. This Cadillac has max HC 129 ppm I see.

Yeah, the most likely guess would be a bad coolant temperature sensor. That would make it run rick, because it's thinking like the choke needs to be pulled for a cold start situation, and the choke never gets turned off. The way to test it would be to completely remove it, and disconnect both wires from it, and put a "voltmeter" on it but measure the resistance. DVM - digital voltmeter I suppose. Need to locate the coolant temperature sensor first though of course.

testing the coolant sensor. if it reads too low will run rich. http://forums.cadillaclasalleclub.org/index.php?topic=107883.0

Rich operation Back to the top 1. Short circuits in the following wires can cause this condition: a. Coolant Sensor b. Air Sensor c. ECU and Jumper Harness 2. A leak in the MAP hose will cause this condition as it will alter the signal received by the ECU. To check the MAP hose, disconnect the hose at the throttle body and connect a hand vacuum pump such as 1-23738 to the hose. Develop a vacuum of 15” in the hose and check for leak down. A damaged hose can be replaced without replacing the entire line by splicing in a section of hose which conforms to GM spec. 6107 M. Also check the vacuum hose at the fuel pressure regulator as a leak in this line will alter the MAP signal as well as increase the fuel pressure. 3. Start engine and run for at least 1 minute. High fuel pressure will cause rich operation as a greater quantity of fuel will be injected with each injector opening. Normal fuel pressure is shown in Fig. I. 4. If the car has high fuel pressure, this fact proves the capabilities of the chassis pump and isolates the problem to either the regulator or return hose. To check these components, remove the fuel return hose from the pressure regulator and run a line between the regulator and a suitable container. Run the engine and observe the fuel pressure. If the pressure is normal, the restriction (return hose) has been eliminated. However, if the pressure is still high, a noncontrolling regulator is indicated. 5. The coolant sensor provides low resistance when it is cold. If the sensor is shorted, this low resistance will continue to be supplied to the ECU which will continue to provide a long (rich) pulse width. The resistance of the sensor can be determined with analyzer 1-25400 in step 10, or can be determined with a VOM (volt-ohm meter) at the connector. A defective sensor is indicated if the resistance value does not compare with the values shown in Fig. 3. If the sensor checks OK, it is still necessary to insure that the resistance signal is being delivered to the ECU. This can be accomplished with analyzer 1-25400 or by probing terminals “D” and “G” of the red 9 way connector with the VOM. This value should be the same as that measured at the sensor. 6. Vacuum leaks at the throttle body will alter the MAP signal the same as a leaking hose. Inspect the throttle body for this condition. 7. An injector which is sticking open will cause a rich condition even though all other components are operating normally. This condition can be analyzed as described on Pages 44 through 49 If no defects have been found at this point a new ECU should be installed on a trial basis. http://www.cadillacseville.org/technical.html#11

Looks rather complex if this is it. http://www.cadillacseville.org/elctroubleshoot78.html

Does this system have a cold-start enrichment device which is not turning itself off? Reason I ask is my '81 FI does, and you need it to come on to start when cold and go off after it warms up, and they often malfunction.

You may need new fuel injectors. Fuel injectors when old or dirty can "leak" and also not spray properly. Leaking means they dribble extra fuel when they should not be so that makes for too rich. Not spraying well means they do not atomize the fuel well so fuel and air does not mix well and burn cleanly. Here is a vid showing what bad Bosch fuel injectors look like and why they need replace

You probably also have high HC, hydrocarbons, but that gets reduced by the AIR injection as said above, so by the time it gets out the tailpipe the HC are at a passing level. So the AIR system is doing more to reduce the HC's than it really should have to do. Also if you do have a catalytic converter, install a fresh one. That would help, but ideally you need to get the mixture optimized before putting on a new cat. A cat run on a too-rich engine will go bad much too quickly.

I used to go to Montgomery Wards, until the 1990's. I bought car batteries and some other stuff there. Maybe a refrigerator too? That was Hawthorne, CA. I left the area in 1997. Not even sure if the store was still open then. It was definitely in business during the early 1990's though. Hawthorne Plaza remains empty as its abandoned presence contributes to the blight of Hawthorne Boulevard. April 30, 2008. Daily Breeze file photo. http://www.businessinsider.com/creepy-abandoned-mall-gone-girl-2014-10 Good pictures in this link

Well we will consider the issue resolved then!

Obviously that raises the chicken vs the egg question. Which came first, the chicken or the egg? And here, did you quit going to Sears because they declined, or did they decline because you started spending your tool and appliance money at Lowes instead of Sears. Profit margins declined due to competition from Lowes, Home Depot and Harbor Freight. And loyal Sears customers thought it fine to spend a large chunk of their money elsewhere. Sears tries to stay in business by having only minimum wage part-time employees. Should anyone be surprised customer service declined?

It's got one bid so far. I kicked off the bidding. This car has original interior in very good condition. Body has original paint with no rust or dents. The fenders have some dents. It runs very nice, like new. Quiet and smooth running engine with dual carbs. Near new battery and carb rebuild. Tires are wide white radials. Steering wheel probably has cracks. All glass is good. Has an oil leak on bottom end. Have the gasket set. Year: 1941 VIN (Vehicle Identification Number): 14192886 Mileage: 57,894 Number of Cylinders: 8 Make: Buick Transmission: Manual Model: Roadmaster Body Type: Coupe Trim: Super Warranty: Vehicle does NOT have an existing warranty Engine: 248 Straight Eight Vehicle Title: Clear Fuel Type: Gasoline Sub Model: super For Sale By: Private Seller Exterior Color: black Drive Side: Left-hand drive Interior Color: Gray

Sears was bought by Kmart in 2004. Kmart chose to let the Sears name continue in use. They could just as easily been all renamed Kmart. I have bought lots, most of my clothes at Kmart. Sears has the same things, like Dickies pants, only at a higher price. I have continued to buy tools at Sears. Like a 17mm Allen wrench. Also sockets like 22mm and 36mm. A broader selection and you can buy individual pieces, not just sets. They also have 3/4 inch ratches and sockets not just 3/8 and 1/2 inch. You don't find that everywhere.

So you helped them out by defrauding them.

Seems the IRS says a car is a "capital asset" not a collectible. From the Schedule D instructions: So is taxed as a capital gain, but not a gain on a "collectible." Capital Asset Most property you own and use for personal purposes or investment is a capital asset. For example, your house, furniture, car, stocks, and bonds are capital assets. A capital asset is any property owned by you except the following. http://www.irs.gov/instructions/i1040sd IRS Official Definition of a Collectible Collectibles under IRC Sectioin 408(m)(2) include: Any work of art, Any rug or antique, Any metal or gem (with limited exceptions, below), Any stamp or coin (with limited exceptions, below) Any alcoholic beverage, or Any other tangible personal property that the IRS determines is a "collectible" under IRC Section 408(m). http://www.irs.gov/retirement-plans/investments-in-collectibles-in-individually-directed-qualified-plan-accounts Collectibles special tax rate When collectibles are sold, they become taxable at a maximum tax rate of 28 percent. The tax applies to profit on the sale of your collectibles. That tax rate is considerably higher than the average capital gains tax of 15 percent that most people pay for non-collectible investments such as stocks and bonds (the tax range for long-term capital gains is from 0 to 20 percent). The exception to this rule is that if you’ve held your collection less than a year before you sell it, your capital gain will be taxed as regular income. http://1040return.com/collectibles-tax-collector/

Apparently a car does not qualify as a "collectible" according to IRS rules. Not even a collectible car is a collectible according to IRS tax law. http://olympiaridge-pfa.com/collector-cars-and-the-tax-man/ But isn’t a collectible taxed at a capped 28%? In some cases, yes but not in the case of cars. Federal law indicates that cars, whether personal use or not, are not treated as collectibles for tax considerations. http://journal.classiccars.com/2014/01/22/selling-classic-without-selling-irs/ But what about the 28-percent federal tax on “collectibles”? Don’t worry, Draneas said, because federal tax law does not include cars within the definition of collectibles (which he said is a fact that escapes the notice of some accountants). OK, so you sell a classic you’ve owned more than a year and you pay 20 percent in federal taxes on the profit. That’s it, right? Not quite. There is a new net investment income tax of 3.8 percent on anyone making $200,000 or more per year. Plus, there is the matter of state income taxes.

There happens to be a parallel thread discussing this problem. The OP of that thread should be given these suggestions.

What picture resolution are you using? These are 640 X 480 pixels, very low resolution, but good enough for most purposes. When I upload them I see "Max total size 9.77MB" and they were 79 kb and 82 kb. So it appears I could upload at least 100 of such pictures.

24 ounce Coors, not the 12 oz - too small

It's the same reason that Ford is ceasing to make cars; instead just trucks, the Explorer and the Mustang. Fiat is doing real well with the Dodge truck, and the Dodge Challemger, and they have the Dodge Durango which is almost indistinguishable from the Ford Explorer. What "Chrysler" vehicle was selling well? I think the Chrysler 300 was very popular, at least it was.

I'd buy a Fiat 128 if I could find one.

If you're in California there's two, small, private "museums." They sell pumps. Not sure if they have working displays. probably not. Pumps are expensive. The Gas Pump 9637 Magnolia Riverside, CA 92503 951 689-7113 Hours: Fri & Sat 11.00 to 4.00 And, Reiff's Gas Station Museum, 52 Jefferson St, Woodland, California 95695. http://reiffsgasstation.com/ http://www.thegaspumpstore.com/pumps.htm

I watched the Alfa Romeo episode, seeing as how I own one. He disassembled the rear axle and differential. This type of thing should be interesting to some with a mix of general information and opinions and some mechanical repairs, though not a detailed complete engine rebuild. It is not meant to be fodder for those of you who insist on nitpicking and finding every little error. Obviously that is a serious sport for some. Here is the vid on the Alfa Romeo - https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x6iwry4

Also consider retrofitting a recovery tank, in place of the simple overflow tube.

Maytag motor/engine and fuel pitcher.