rodneybeauchamp

Pictures please, otherwise it never happened 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

Hi, was looking at this wiring diagram and noticed an extra plug. It’s H2 Puelizer Spark Plug. I gather it might be a magneto type ignition but not sure of which I have little (read zero) knowledge about. Can I asked the informed to shed light onto what it does? No, I don’t have a Packard but always interested in old stuff, especially the bits where the smoke comes out unexpectedly! Thanks Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

It is a simple job to run a wire from the slide switch to the headlamp switch so that they automatically switch on with the headlights and park lights. I know it would not be what the factory did but you can’t accidentally leave your instrument lights on. (Which was the annoying thing I found with my ‘38.) Remember when I first picked up my ‘40 Pontiac and drove all the way home at night without instrument lights because I had no idea where the switch was. That was……. oops back in the late eighties 😳😳😳😳😳 Interesting that the Chevrolet has the license plate mounting bracket on the RHS and Buick is on the left. A handsome looking ‘38 Buick! Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

And today a work day. Have been chasing down a source of an annoying shimmy that seems to come from the LHS front. The shimmy seems to be only at low speed, less than 30mph and is intermittent depending on the road surface. At higher speeds it runs quite smooth but the shimmy is very unBuick like. It should be smooth all the time. Sure being a convertible there is some scuttle shake, but the shimmy is not part of that. The other day I had it on my ramps to examine the steering and front end parts and apart from a missing bumper bar bolt at one end and a broken earth strap at the front of the engine support cradle, everything appeared as it should. So today I removed checked and replaced the inner and outer wheel bearings. The ones I removed appeared OK and I had adjusted them previously but wanted to eyeball them. Found this small indentation on the inner bearing cup but not sure it is the cause of the problem. So was happy to replace them. Also checked the bolts holding the brake backing plate to the steering knuckle and made sure they were torqued to 65foot pounds. On Wednesday I will get a chance to check it out again with a drive and see if the new bearings have made a difference. What worries me is that it may be the isolation bushes (3) that support the engine cradle, steering and front suspension. So far I have balanced the wheels all round, changed out the idler arm support bracket, had a wheel alignment check, replaced shockers all round. Sure I have noticed an improvement but it has not gone away entirely. Photos show the small indent in the outer bearing cup. Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

Well a few more things. Our Cars n Coffee group plan to celebrate Old Car Day this Thursday and our local newspaper Fleurieu Sun got wind and wanted some photos for an article. So a morning photo shoot with Lester and his ‘66 Mustang with some nice break in the weather. It is still winter here until the first and as I write this it is cats and dogs outside most of today. After the shoot we then headed out on the route we will take and had coffee at a little cafe then onto Hindmarsh Island where we will have lunch on the day. With top down it was fresh but with some gloves and a scarf just cosy. Twenty minutes after I got back it poured! The rain gods were smiling. Speedo showing 67,694 miles which means 1541 so far. Probably out of warranty too!. 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

The crack may be repairable. Would need a picture of the crack and more information about the condition of the rest of the engine for others with this experience to chime in. Good luck! Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

Just my two bobs worth. Ever since I was old enough to notice cars and their wheels, I lusted after a set of Cragar S/S wheels after seeing them in some US based Hot Rod magazines. (A shortened wheelbase ‘60s Chevrolet article comes to mind.) All of my 1/24 scale plastic kits had Cragars too! And after a few years, I finally owned some. Sure they looked great, but the issue of spacers and multi fit pattern and getting new wheel nuts RH and LH down under was all too hard. I sold them the other day after having stored them indoors for over two years. Such is life! Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

You gotta start somewhere! 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

Should be much much lighter now it is turned 0.020 under 😀😀😀😀😀😀 Interesting as to why you wanted it built on the loose end of the tolerances. When blueprinting an engine, usually you want all the tolerances to be even or close to even. And usually in the middle of the range. Can I ask your reasoning as to why you wanted yours at the upper (loose) end? cheers Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

Interesting that the option B5 heater and defroster delete COST $98.00 in the day. Photo is taken from the Riviera Owners Association website. Thinking how many people would have PAID TO DELETE IT. Interesting as to why someone would ask for it to be deleted and what purpose would it achieve to not have a heater and defroster ….. just don’t use it. Unless the new owner had a bad experience previously. Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

Interesting station wagon. We only got the R and S Series Valiant here (Australia) in four-door sedan version so a wagon derivative would be a talking point. Have seen a few imported 2 door coupes and a rusted out convertible (Swapmeet) but never a wagon here. Chrysler Australia did wagons and utilities from about ‘65 I think but don’t quote me as I’m not a Mopar Guy. Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

Early seat belt used with padlock 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

Hi Dundee. Welcome to the world of Buick Rivieras. Think you find DD is Silver Cloud top and bottom, which would be correct with silver upholstery. The Riviera Owners Association website has good information about colours, options and specifications that anyone can access. If you join you get the Riview magazine plus access to member information. cheers Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

FYI the ‘63 switch is a one year only switch. If it’s any help, all ‘63 full size and compacts use the same ignition switch. If yours is faulty it may be repairable by taking it apart. If you check out my blog under Me and My Buick I have just put up some photos about how I repaired my faulty NOS unit for my ‘63 Skylark. Worth a look. Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

Not 100% sure if it was loose but if it was not secure in the metal housing that may have provided enough of a gap to not make contact. Certainly there were marks on the contact surfaces when I disassembled it seen in the last photo. Perhaps when put back together and it was secured in the vice with the socket pushing on the Bakelite that it closed up enough to make the contact. There was also a brass pin seen in picture 4 that was spring loaded that I cleaned and made certain it was free. Do know what that does. Yeah, Not 100% sure of the issue but it works using the multi meter testing. 😳😳😳😳😳

Just as a follow up. My ‘63 Riviera developed a major transmission leak travelling to the Buick Nationals in Dubbo just recently. I contacted an Adelaide South Australian company Rowell and Searle who have been running 75 years. As soon as I mentioned Buick they asked if it was a Dynaflo as their mechanic has worked on a few of those, his last was an Electra. They certainly did not faze him so my Riviera is in their shop as I type this, waiting for the transmission mount to be revulcanised locally. I ordered the parts myself thru Fatsco (overhaul kit and bushing kit) then had a sprag sent direct once that issue was discovered. It was somewhat of a surprise to see my transmission in six million pieces when I was down there last but it is now all back together waiting on the mount. They we’re aware that their hoist would be tied up for some time with the parts having to be sourced from the States and so feel comfortable in that fact. When we road tested the Riviera before dismantling it certainly functioned as is should giving faith that it should come out OK. And I noticed that in their shop was an early Rambler, S Series Valiant and a HX/Z Holden, so older cars were on their agenda. From my current experience they are certainly people to talk to. Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

Had a few minutes so checked out the non working ignition switch. The Bakelite base fits only one way because of cutouts in the metal casing which is swaged (sway, shag and swagged according to self correcting @#$&$#@& iPad ) in three places. Marked a terminal in red matching the case to get it back together the same way. Gentle tapping with a light hammer and screwdriver straightened them enough to allow it to come apart. Never been inside one of these before so was going to be interesting. Not many parts at all. Noticed that all the metal contacts were lightly corroded so a quick brush up with a Dremel made everything new again. You can see in the last photo the light corrosion. Gave each contact a smear of dielectric grease and reassembled it. A socket placed at the terminal end allowed it to be gently squeezed back together keeping it tight in the vice while I was able to reswage the case. A quick check with the multimeter confirmed there was power available on the START and RUN circuits where previously the START circuit was dead. I would now suggest that anyone who has a bad ignition switch may want to carefully take it apart and examine the contacts as there is not much else that could give problems. Besides you have zero to lose and everything to gain by keeping an original part in service. My only reason for buying new is the one in the Skylark was incorrect from the PO. These are photos taken as it came apart so it would go back together the same way. I now have a known working spare that I might swap out when I have nothing else better to do! Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

Would it be worth adding a rubber grommet where the wire exits from the tube to prevent it rubbing thru? Just a thought Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀 PS was also surprised there were zero responses but glad that you posted your fix. It is all interesting stuff.

Interesting read in this topic and glad the problem was diagnosed. My thoughts were if a bypass filter system as used on early Buick Riviera was installed would this resolve the issue rather than the regulator. This system was used on AC cars to prevent Vapor lock. The dual outlet can style filter would bypass any excess fuel back into the tank. Would this reduce the pressure enough so it does not overwhelm the float needle by bypassing back to the tank. I realise the AC cars had the full return line but on a NON AC CAR could it just be teed back into the supply line BEFORE the fuel pump. Basically recirculating the excess fuel. My theory and solution may not work but would be interested to hear what others think. Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀 PS Photo kindly suppled by eBay 😀😀

Thank you. So am I. I enjoy reading your posts about your ‘64 as they have a special memory for me when we bought one back in 1990 😀😀😀😀😀

And took a nice drive out to Normanville Cafe, in Normanville, a coastal town on the other side of the Fleurieu Peninsula for a refreshing drink and a look at what they are doing to the area. Then back into Victor Harbor for some grocery shopping that we all love to do. Nice to get Jo out and about and first time she has experienced our new seatbelts. She was very happy with the outing. And so was I, the Skylark performed flawlessly again, starting right up every time, which is how it should be. And the one picture I took was when we returned home. Speedo now on 67,624miles meaning we have driven only 1,471 in our ownership. Need to do better than that! Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

Nice winters day in the sunshine for breakfast. Mr Happy performed flawlessly after having some fuel and ignition problems which have all been resolved. Any way so photos at Goolwa Main Street and the Wharf precinct. Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

Well, nice to be out and about enjoying a drop of sunshine during our winter. I was a bit hesitant this morning with all the previous dramas it has had but was meeting up with Lester (our Cars n Coffee organiser) to go to breakfast at Goolwa. Must say that all that hard work paid off as it started easily and performed flawlessly, perhaps the best it has ever ran since my ownership. Certainly having the timing settings spot on makes a huge difference in how it runs, very smooth and very quiet, very “Buick Like”, as it should. Lots of comments and admiring glances from several people and some photos taken. Must admit, like me, it is very photogenic! And decided to increase its value by filling the tank too! Very pleased with todays run, very pleased. Photos otherwise it never happened! And it lived up to its name …. Mr Happy. Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

If my memory serves me correctly, my ‘64 Skylark with 300cu in hi comp 4bbl Power Pack motor and factory air conditioning was fitted with a multi blade metal fan (possibly five blades) with fan clutch and fan shroud over a three core conventional radiator, I gather as it lived in Southern California all its life, that cooling system would have been sufficient, especially as it was black on black. It would have been engineered to have sufficient cooling when new, so the only degradation would be accumulated rust and scale and decreased flow as time goes by. Not a big fan of alternative solutions when a bunch of factory engineers worked on the design to get it correct back in 1964. Would a fan and clutch unit from an a/c car be a better solution? Just my thoughts Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

I would definitely keep her. Any wife that is willing to drive your old car is a keeper in my book! Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀