rodneybeauchamp

Hi all, As you may be aware I am searching for a low mileage 1998 or 1999 Buick Riviera. What are the better search engines or forums that I should be using to locate my next Riviera? What do forum members use for Nationwide searches? The ones that come up often produce the same result or ones that have been sold or cars that don’t even fit my search criteria. Am am located in Australia so not sure how that affects my results. Any help would be appreciated. Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀

BTT Still looking. Happy to be the next custodian of your ‘98 or ‘99 Riviera. It will be cared for 😀😀😀😀 Rodney 😀😀😀😀

BTT. Still searching. Have looked at several that looked promising but the one I lusted after was withdrawn from sale. There is one out there with my name on it, just gotta find it. Any help will be much appreciated Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

Jordan, our miniature Fox Terrier was a great companion dog and knew those words ‘go for a ride’ which was usually to the beach for long walks. She used to love laying on the parcel shelf of my ‘64 Skylark as it was warm there! Once she sniffed the sea, would be at the vent window on the passenger side, whining to get there. ‘Are we there yet!” Both her and the Skylark are long gone, but hoping 10week old Billy will enjoy the rides! Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

By the look, Blue probably only understands Metric. Try 12mm Bluey? great thread. Great story. Great pictures. Made my day! Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀

PM sent Rodney 😀😀😀😀

Installed one on my ‘63 with A/C back in 2016 and performed well in my care. Was extremely well engineered with lots of vanes to move coolant around. Not cheap (especially shipped to Aus) but was my preferred choice. When installed helped maintain good temperatures (digital gauge) with a recored radiator and new cap and thermostat. Would not hesitate to purchase again. Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

Thanks Dave, was aware of that issue. Hoping a low miles pampered garage queen is on the horizon or one from a dry climate. Appreciate your comments Rodney 😀😀😀😀

Hi all, Searching for an original condition low mileage (less than 50,000) 1998 or 1999 Buick Riviera to import to Australia. Happy to look at vehicles with higher miles if in exceptional condition. There is one out there with my name on it, happy if you can help. Sold my ‘63 so would like to replace it with the “last generation” Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

BTT Still looking for a 1998 or 1999 Buick Riviera with lowish miles. thanks Rodney 😀😀😀😀

Hi, had a original nylon gear on a ‘64 Buick 300 engine give me grief so it was a no brainer on my ‘63 Riviera to replace the set with all steel gears. Think they were Cloyes. No excessive gear noise either. Replaced the timing cover and used a FlowCooler water pump as well.

My understanding it was over engineered. We towed a car trailer with a ‘61 manual carrying a ‘61 auto back from interstate without any issues. Friend had one and it is still running now (different owner). Just my observations 😀😀 Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀

Funny as I don’t see this as negativism, more as constructive observations. JJ does a lot of selling and no doubt buying and is astute enough to see the obvious. The rest of us often look through Rose Coloured Glasses. Personally I prefer comments to be truthful as we can all see how beautiful things are. I’m looking for a low mileage 1998/1999 Riviera and it is so easy to let the heart take over. Comments like those from JJ bring us back to reality and get us to ask questions. (Like “Why is the underside of a 109,000mile car so nice and clean and shiny and black? Cos they just sprayed it with under sealer to hide something of course!) Just my three bobs worth Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

One of the requirements is that you cannot use the vehicle for hire or reward. And it is any day or days you chose. For a tour lasting several days, fill in the log book each day. That is not onerous, just the date, destination and signature. If others drive your vehicle they need to fill it out also that day. Main thing is to make sure it is filled in before the journey. If not, you are driving an unregistered and uninsured vehicle with all the penalties that entails. This system works fine for me and when I was running two classic cars, would struggle to complete 90 days on each. BTW each club issues the log books and keeps a register as part of the system. Have never been pulled over or asked to check my log book so far. Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

Ted, I thought that initially myself, however most members I speak with can’t make 90days per year. That is almost every weekend for two days. And like many, if you have two vehicles then 180days. I found I could register a vehicle (concessional) for three years for much less than it cost to register full time. So the economics makes good sense. And the full insurance cover is also way less than if registered full time. But it might not suit everyone! Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

Thought I would share my two bobs worth. 😀😀😀😀😀 In Australia we have “Historic/Concessional” registration for vehicles 25 years or older, including LHD, modified, hot rods and restored/original vehicles. This gives 90days of use per year. Some states are more restrictive in use but so far in South Australia we have no restrictions on where we choose to drive. We have a log book system that must be filled out each day and there are penalties if not filled out. In order to gain concessional registration you MUST BELONG TO AN APPROVED CAR CLUB. OK so I joined my local area car club (mixed makes) that is ten minutes from me but found they were more into social events that happened mid week (most members were retired) than into car stuff. I was working so that precluded me from going to many in the first few years. (It was also annoying) In the last two years they decided to drop both automotive swapmeets and a toy fair as they were too difficult to organise, yet these were the primary source of the clubs external income! (300 plus members) They also insisted that members had to attend a minimum number of meetings or events to qualify as a member. (Thank goodness for Covid and not being able to attend!) And they raised membership fees this year. (Why????) So early this year, I joined another club that focuses on American GM cars (and allows other American based makes too) 1. Fees for this club are about $40.00 per year CHEAPER! 2. The club puts on events and pays for members and partners admissions (Film night at a cinema, tram museum visit, Christmas luncheon) 3. Uses social media Facebook for events and communications as well as text and email. 4. Electronic newsletter only (I think) 5. Rent a club room for meetings. 6. No raffles Their major income source is the one car show per year that they ask all members to help with which provides enough monies to cover room hire, insurance etc. So far, I have really enjoyed my time with this new group as their philosophy regarding members seems to align with my thinking also. So even though meetings will be a 180km round trip (over 100miles) I am far happier to attend. And funny, they all seem to be interested in the cars too! So car clubs are not all doom and gloom, it is just a matter of finding one that fits! 😀😀😀😀😀😀

Just my two bobs worth. My ‘38 Special also came original with the Marvel carburettor and its associated automatic choke system. The car became problematic in becoming unreliable to start. (Garage kept and mild temperatures in Australia) In the end it became a marvel if it started. Then one morning having started it first thing, when I went to start it to go on an outing it refused to restart. Even cursing and swearing made no difference. I resolved the issue by installing a 2bbl Carter carburettor from a 1947 Buick from the same 248cu in engine. The tag on the carburettor matched my listings so knew it should work. By coiling a copper tube and inserting this into the exhaust manifold where the original Marvel choke resides gave me a fully working choke. I did lose the hand throttle but that was not an issue as it became a reliable Buick that would start. The throttle required a lever to be made but found those details through this forum and you will find pictures and details of the modification under Me and My Buick. I kept all the Marvel parts and nothing was modified that could not be easily returned to original condition. I did not take this step lightly as my preference was to keep this Buick original. But having a garage ornament is not much fun! Anyway, pictures otherwise it never happened. Further pictures in my post under Rodney’s 1938 Buick Special. Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

Hi Mark, really two good videos describing the process. The plastic shield is so fragile and can be easily broken. Great results. Did a similar process on the front badge on my ‘63 Skylark using thin brass wire to remove the paint. Again used a hobby paint (Humbrol) to repaint it and it turned out great. Short description found under Me and My Buick (Rodneys 1963 Buick Skylark Convertible) It is those little things like badges and nameplates that make such a difference! Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀

You should feel a difference and change in engine speed when floored. It happened to me once when overtaking and did surprise me. Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀

So for something different, our small group of Cars N Coffee regulars set up a display of our cars in a local residential care facility where the staff and residents were able to get up close and personal with the cars for a couple of hours. Feedback we got was it was a great success from the interest shown by those who came to look. And photos of the event sans residents as the facility did not want photos of residents put up without their families permission. What is this world coming to with privacy laws 😢😢😢😢😢 Speedo now reading 68,768 miles. Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

Sebastian, I found similar issues where some suppliers would not post to Australia. Ended setting up a US Postal address through a couple of US based companies who then redirect your parcel for a modest fee. Often suppliers will free post in the States, so you only pay the overseas shipping. Shipito is one such company I have used. cheers Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

What a difference an LED or two make! For those who have followed my posts you may recall that in May this year I removed and refurbished the instrument cluster and rectified the PO poor attempt to repair the bulb holders. It certainly improved the lighting but was never 100% satisfied with the light output, especially the fuel gauge and clock. I do use my Buicks at night, often as a result of returning home from an event. We live in a country town so will often need some night driving, hence the Cibie QH headlamp conversion with relay fitted earlier. So bit the bullet a few weeks ago and ordered LED replacement bulbs for the instrument panel, shift dial, radio and rear courtesy lamps. Super Bright LEDs was my supplier of choice as I have had excellent results with my ‘63 Riviera and they stand behind their product, replacing free of charge including postage a failed bulb after 1 year of service without question. No, I don’t have any affiliation with them but happy with their product and service. It was a simple matter of removing the instrument panel cover and replacing each globe in the twist sockets. I chose Warm White for the background lighting, red for HI BEAM and Amber to use in the TEMP and GEN warning lamps. Found that the LEDs didn’t work as well in these locations as the original incandescent bulbs, so used the Amber in the TURN SIGNALS either side. Also added some white tape to the transmission indicator making it simple to select a gear. As you know our eyesight gets much better with age! 😀😀 The results were extremely good, clear easy to read gauges, especially the clock and fuel gauge. The Turn signals are almost blinding but easy to not leave on. The radio and transmission indicator dial are also easy to see. In summary they make the inside much more pleasant and inviting to be in as everything can be seen and read. The courtesy lamps are nice and bright without the heat which could destroy the lamp lenses over time. I left the front courtesy lamps and glovebox and ashtray lamps as incandescents as they won’t create issues. Can’t wait for the next evening drive! Anyway photos to show the results! 😀😀😀😀😀😀 Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

FWIIW made up this simple tool to remove the retainer springs that maintain tension on the sealed beam lamps. Piece of wire coat hanger cut to length and bent and the other end fixed through a piece of dowel as a pull handle. Has earned its place in the tool cupboard having removed and replaced several sets of lamps. In Australia we need to convert our American based LHD cars to have headlamps that dip to the left on Lo beam. 😀😀😀😀😀 Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

Also the original switch may be repairable. Most can be taken apart by bending the metal tabs that secure the switch housing giving access to the internals. More often than not a thorough cleaning with a Dremel wire wheel will bring the contacts up better than new. With some dielectric grease as a lubricant it will probably switch on and off for another sixty years. Take plenty of photos before and during disassembly so you know how it goes back together. And don’t forget to do each of the terminals inside the block and on the wiring harness as they will/may be corroded. My ‘63 Buick shown in these photos under went that process and is now 100% reliable. And post your results here if you choose that route. Much cheaper and more rewarding than just bunging in an aftermarket unit made over there! 😀😀😀😀 Just my three bobs worth Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

Hi, welcome to the world of Buick Rivieras. I purchased my bolt kit from Centreville Auto along with a new timing cover. The stainless steel bolt kit included ones for the water pump. Several of these bolts go into the water jackets so threads need to be coated with a suitable sealant. Kit in their listing below. Remove the cover first to inspect it and confirm it is usable. Mine wasnt 😟😟😟😟 Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀