rodneybeauchamp

One of the requirements is that you cannot use the vehicle for hire or reward. And it is any day or days you chose. For a tour lasting several days, fill in the log book each day. That is not onerous, just the date, destination and signature. If others drive your vehicle they need to fill it out also that day. Main thing is to make sure it is filled in before the journey. If not, you are driving an unregistered and uninsured vehicle with all the penalties that entails. This system works fine for me and when I was running two classic cars, would struggle to complete 90 days on each. BTW each club issues the log books and keeps a register as part of the system. Have never been pulled over or asked to check my log book so far. Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

Ted, I thought that initially myself, however most members I speak with can’t make 90days per year. That is almost every weekend for two days. And like many, if you have two vehicles then 180days. I found I could register a vehicle (concessional) for three years for much less than it cost to register full time. So the economics makes good sense. And the full insurance cover is also way less than if registered full time. But it might not suit everyone! Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

Thought I would share my two bobs worth. 😀😀😀😀😀 In Australia we have “Historic/Concessional” registration for vehicles 25 years or older, including LHD, modified, hot rods and restored/original vehicles. This gives 90days of use per year. Some states are more restrictive in use but so far in South Australia we have no restrictions on where we choose to drive. We have a log book system that must be filled out each day and there are penalties if not filled out. In order to gain concessional registration you MUST BELONG TO AN APPROVED CAR CLUB. OK so I joined my local area car club (mixed makes) that is ten minutes from me but found they were more into social events that happened mid week (most members were retired) than into car stuff. I was working so that precluded me from going to many in the first few years. (It was also annoying) In the last two years they decided to drop both automotive swapmeets and a toy fair as they were too difficult to organise, yet these were the primary source of the clubs external income! (300 plus members) They also insisted that members had to attend a minimum number of meetings or events to qualify as a member. (Thank goodness for Covid and not being able to attend!) And they raised membership fees this year. (Why????) So early this year, I joined another club that focuses on American GM cars (and allows other American based makes too) 1. Fees for this club are about $40.00 per year CHEAPER! 2. The club puts on events and pays for members and partners admissions (Film night at a cinema, tram museum visit, Christmas luncheon) 3. Uses social media Facebook for events and communications as well as text and email. 4. Electronic newsletter only (I think) 5. Rent a club room for meetings. 6. No raffles Their major income source is the one car show per year that they ask all members to help with which provides enough monies to cover room hire, insurance etc. So far, I have really enjoyed my time with this new group as their philosophy regarding members seems to align with my thinking also. So even though meetings will be a 180km round trip (over 100miles) I am far happier to attend. And funny, they all seem to be interested in the cars too! So car clubs are not all doom and gloom, it is just a matter of finding one that fits! 😀😀😀😀😀😀

Just my two bobs worth. My ‘38 Special also came original with the Marvel carburettor and its associated automatic choke system. The car became problematic in becoming unreliable to start. (Garage kept and mild temperatures in Australia) In the end it became a marvel if it started. Then one morning having started it first thing, when I went to start it to go on an outing it refused to restart. Even cursing and swearing made no difference. I resolved the issue by installing a 2bbl Carter carburettor from a 1947 Buick from the same 248cu in engine. The tag on the carburettor matched my listings so knew it should work. By coiling a copper tube and inserting this into the exhaust manifold where the original Marvel choke resides gave me a fully working choke. I did lose the hand throttle but that was not an issue as it became a reliable Buick that would start. The throttle required a lever to be made but found those details through this forum and you will find pictures and details of the modification under Me and My Buick. I kept all the Marvel parts and nothing was modified that could not be easily returned to original condition. I did not take this step lightly as my preference was to keep this Buick original. But having a garage ornament is not much fun! Anyway, pictures otherwise it never happened. Further pictures in my post under Rodney’s 1938 Buick Special. Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

Hi Mark, really two good videos describing the process. The plastic shield is so fragile and can be easily broken. Great results. Did a similar process on the front badge on my ‘63 Skylark using thin brass wire to remove the paint. Again used a hobby paint (Humbrol) to repaint it and it turned out great. Short description found under Me and My Buick (Rodneys 1963 Buick Skylark Convertible) It is those little things like badges and nameplates that make such a difference! Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀

You should feel a difference and change in engine speed when floored. It happened to me once when overtaking and did surprise me. Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀

So for something different, our small group of Cars N Coffee regulars set up a display of our cars in a local residential care facility where the staff and residents were able to get up close and personal with the cars for a couple of hours. Feedback we got was it was a great success from the interest shown by those who came to look. And photos of the event sans residents as the facility did not want photos of residents put up without their families permission. What is this world coming to with privacy laws 😢😢😢😢😢 Speedo now reading 68,768 miles. Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

Sebastian, I found similar issues where some suppliers would not post to Australia. Ended setting up a US Postal address through a couple of US based companies who then redirect your parcel for a modest fee. Often suppliers will free post in the States, so you only pay the overseas shipping. Shipito is one such company I have used. cheers Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

What a difference an LED or two make! For those who have followed my posts you may recall that in May this year I removed and refurbished the instrument cluster and rectified the PO poor attempt to repair the bulb holders. It certainly improved the lighting but was never 100% satisfied with the light output, especially the fuel gauge and clock. I do use my Buicks at night, often as a result of returning home from an event. We live in a country town so will often need some night driving, hence the Cibie QH headlamp conversion with relay fitted earlier. So bit the bullet a few weeks ago and ordered LED replacement bulbs for the instrument panel, shift dial, radio and rear courtesy lamps. Super Bright LEDs was my supplier of choice as I have had excellent results with my ‘63 Riviera and they stand behind their product, replacing free of charge including postage a failed bulb after 1 year of service without question. No, I don’t have any affiliation with them but happy with their product and service. It was a simple matter of removing the instrument panel cover and replacing each globe in the twist sockets. I chose Warm White for the background lighting, red for HI BEAM and Amber to use in the TEMP and GEN warning lamps. Found that the LEDs didn’t work as well in these locations as the original incandescent bulbs, so used the Amber in the TURN SIGNALS either side. Also added some white tape to the transmission indicator making it simple to select a gear. As you know our eyesight gets much better with age! 😀😀 The results were extremely good, clear easy to read gauges, especially the clock and fuel gauge. The Turn signals are almost blinding but easy to not leave on. The radio and transmission indicator dial are also easy to see. In summary they make the inside much more pleasant and inviting to be in as everything can be seen and read. The courtesy lamps are nice and bright without the heat which could destroy the lamp lenses over time. I left the front courtesy lamps and glovebox and ashtray lamps as incandescents as they won’t create issues. Can’t wait for the next evening drive! Anyway photos to show the results! 😀😀😀😀😀😀 Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

FWIIW made up this simple tool to remove the retainer springs that maintain tension on the sealed beam lamps. Piece of wire coat hanger cut to length and bent and the other end fixed through a piece of dowel as a pull handle. Has earned its place in the tool cupboard having removed and replaced several sets of lamps. In Australia we need to convert our American based LHD cars to have headlamps that dip to the left on Lo beam. 😀😀😀😀😀 Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

Also the original switch may be repairable. Most can be taken apart by bending the metal tabs that secure the switch housing giving access to the internals. More often than not a thorough cleaning with a Dremel wire wheel will bring the contacts up better than new. With some dielectric grease as a lubricant it will probably switch on and off for another sixty years. Take plenty of photos before and during disassembly so you know how it goes back together. And don’t forget to do each of the terminals inside the block and on the wiring harness as they will/may be corroded. My ‘63 Buick shown in these photos under went that process and is now 100% reliable. And post your results here if you choose that route. Much cheaper and more rewarding than just bunging in an aftermarket unit made over there! 😀😀😀😀 Just my three bobs worth Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

Hi, welcome to the world of Buick Rivieras. I purchased my bolt kit from Centreville Auto along with a new timing cover. The stainless steel bolt kit included ones for the water pump. Several of these bolts go into the water jackets so threads need to be coated with a suitable sealant. Kit in their listing below. Remove the cover first to inspect it and confirm it is usable. Mine wasnt 😟😟😟😟 Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

Well, at long last we have HEAT! Yup, all the work so far has really paid off. We have been away on holidays so haven’t posted for a while. Spent some of yesterday and today putting the heater core and housing and the blower motor housing back in. The cork gasket worked a real treat after cleaning up the mating surfaces on the firewall. You can see some of the gasket in the blower housing and on the outer edges of the metal. Once proven, I will just paint them black. Burped the system again and let it idle in the garage on a wild, wet and windy day about 16.1C (but feels like 4.1C) Even at about 140 degrees on the temperature gauge there was warmth and at 160 degrees the heater was quite warm. As it neared 180 degrees I am sure it would have been uncomfortably hot if sitting inside with the top up. Allowed it to get to 180 degrees by putting a towel over the front to reduce the air flow as I wanted the thermostat to open. It gave a big burp as it did! So I am more than satisfied that the heater core now is allowing coolant to flow as it should. Heater valve and hoses were too hot to keep your hand on. One modification made was removing the insulation piece entirely. Have yet to test it on the road and waiting for it to cool down overnight so I can put the cap on and test it under pressure. Anyway, pictures otherwise it never happened 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀 Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀

That’s the method I used first up but found by removing the heater hose was way more effective. Then the last time I bled the system I disconnected the top heater hose and filled the core until it ran out the top outlet then reconnected everything back up. That way I was sure that I had gotten rid of all the air. It surprised me how much was trapped inside. Once air is trapped inside all it wants to do is expand with the heat. Forcing it out by having the fill level higher than the radiator inlet was the only way it was going to shift. Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀

Ok, a bit more progress. Enjoyed what I got done too! Cleaned up inside all the blower and heater core housings while it was all apart. Got Rob, my radiator guy to try and seal the heater valve that had a slight weep, hence why I bypassed it. We think we have sealed it but will know once we hook it in the system. Tested the heater valve temperature regulator ( the coiled up tube which must expand and contract , much like a thermostat) Yup, she no longer works which is why PO put a long screw and nut in its place. Not too fussed but put it back any way. Flushed out the core and filled it with Cleaning Vinegar and left it for two days. Not too sure how effective is was as most of the calcium deposits came out by rattling the nuts inside. Was worried about the CLR being too aggressive on the brass and whatever metal the core is made from (copper or brass). It seems to flow well so will be interested in the results. Also removed the old insulation inside the heater distribution box as it would restrict the air flow. Was concerned about permanently sealing all the housings back up using a sealing compound in case it needs to come apart again so came up with the idea of using cork gaskets. Had some sheet cork about 3.0mm thick and traced out the patterns. With a new knife blade was able to neatly cut them using a steel rule for an edge. Used a hole punch to cut the holes which only need to be large enough to take a 1/4” self tapping sheet metal screw. Using a Permatex sealant on the housings, glued the two gaskets down and left them to dry. Had some 4mm strip rubber with adhesive backing that I used to seal the core to the housing. Just waiting for it to dry so it can go back together. We all like pictures so here they are. The bright screws are temporary to keep the holes aligned. Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

Just getting back on track. Can you check that the Ariel (antennae) is connected and the connections are clean and making good contact. Also by touching the Ariel does it make any difference. just my thoughts Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

Imagine if it were that easy just to ‘cut and paste’ 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

Yep, just keep doing one thing every day and it will get there. At times you might have to improvise to keep the project moving until the right part comes along. BTW there are some excellent posts on here about these and similar Buicks that are worth researching for information. Enjoy the journey. Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

If I remember the garnish mouldings around the rear quarter and rear window are the original dark wood grain finish. I think the rest of the dashboard and door surrounds would be the same. It is not too difficult to replicate with some practice and there are several posts on here how to go about it. I used a light brown base coat and a darker wood stain on a ‘40 Pontiac dashboard and finished over the top with a clear. It was not perfect but credible. Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

Jim, I am going thru similar problems with my ‘63 Skylark 215. I think that the issue was an airlock in the cooling system (read heater core). Was able to eventually burp the system by filling the core with one heater hose disconnected. Was amazed how much extra coolant it took 😀😀😀😀 I was thinking like you about shrouds and fans but if everything is clean and working, it should not overheat. My temperature gauge was sitting in the 200-220 range in stop start traffic on a very moderate day, yet as soon as it gathered speed, it would cool back to 180F and lower with 180 degree thermostat fitted. I pulled the pump and thermostat and flushed it thoroughly with a garden hose and found very little debris. Radiator had been recored about seven years ago but had it checked not that long ago. Checked cap was holding and releasing pressure , all good! I put it down to incompetence in the mechanic that I use. Never thought these cars had air lock issues thinking that was more the problem with modern stuff. Heater was giving little heat so in the process of trying to unblock that. Just my thoughts Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

I was able to repair the sender on my ‘38 Buick with parts from a ‘37. It used to read OK until it got to about half then it would violently fluctuate. The backing for resistor windings had broken giving the error. Swapping bits over and it all worked as it should. Worth a try. Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

The other concern I have is the heater air distribution box on the passenger side of the firewall seems very restrictive. In an earlier post I had cleaned it out and turned over a piece of insulation to keep it original. JohnD made a comment about using a better material and I may revisit that and use a thinner material that gives less resistance to the air flow. The insulation seems very close to the core and the flaps that direct the air are almost in the way. This might assist air flow and help the demisters as well, noting the driver side doesn’t clear very well. I think I might play HVAC engineer and see what I can do to improve things. Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

Had a great breakfast out with our regular monthly crew, taking the Skylark out with the top up. We encountered four seasons on the way with a medium fog at the last leg. Back home decided it was too damp to mow the nature strip so tackled the heater core instead. Not an easy task to take it out due to the locations of some of the fasteners but removing the blower motor and motor housing gave a bit more room. A few surprises met me when it came away, including some debris caught in the fly wire in the heater core housing. A bit more rubbish on the core as well all restricting the air flow. But the airflow of the heater has not been the issue. Flushing out the core back and forth loosened some debris but putting three 5/16” nuts inside and rattling the around gave better results, loosening a lot more white calcified stuff. Thinking I will invest in some CLR unless other have got better ideas. Photos of what I found so far. Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

It is a mechanical arm that is used for signalling for turning and for stopping. When turning left or right the arm and hand is fully extended. The arm can come up at right angles for stopping or slowing. Drivers behind and in front could see what the drivers intentions were. These were used mainly on commercial vehicles. Tried to find photos on the net but nothing was suitable. Perhaps others could post some. Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

What prompted me to add fuses was when I saw the true power and destruction that SIX VOLTS could possibly do. The ‘40 Pontiac was my first experience with a six volt car and being naive thought it would be pretty feeble, being half of twelve volts. Besides on its maiden journey home at night, the lights were poor and dash lighting was dim ….. A few days later when shutting the glovebox door, the clock lighting wire got caught and jammed. With the crumbling insulation from the original wiring, it did not take long to start arcing and sparking with a tremendous noise until I could release the door and trapped wire. Scary stuff! Scary enough to want me to start rewiring it almost immediately and more importantly ensure there were fuses added to the loom. I was not so concerned about originality as protecting the Pontiac from going up in smoke. Besides all those fuses were hidden up underneath the dashboard! A lot nicer knowing they were there! Just my thoughts Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀