telriv

John, I CAN rebuild it. Can't tell you how many I've done. Unfortunately takes LOTS of time which= $$$. Caution: DON'T break the throttle shaft screws adds unnecessary consequences & additional problems. Soak in a mixture of Acetone & trans. fluid to try & free the shafts along with the heat. Tom T.

NTX5467, One of the things you could do is replace the intake with an aluminum one from TAPerformance. Lighter weight=Performance increase. I already have front & rear sway bars in stock. NOBODY makes the correct rear bars which I have in stock. Won't hurt ride BUT increase steering response over & above what you may already have. Tom T.

Ben, That starter still working OK for you. Tom T.

As an addition to what I posted above I can have my son take pics & post IF you may be interested. Might compliment your interior with some contrast. Tom T.

I have one that is brown & tan. It's been off the car for about 40 years. I'll look at it's overall condition & get back to you IF interested. AND, NO I DON'T have a camera. Tom T.

You could use Chevy lifters as they are sold by the thousands & the end results are usually quality & a plus are usually less costly. You just need to use hybrid pushrods. 5/16ths.one end & 3/8 the rocker arm end. Other than the above I see NO down sides & have used MANY. Tom T.

You CANNOT cut or drill holes in tempered glass as it will shatter into thousands of pieces. Tom T.

Because it brings the crank/cam centerline closer & you will have a forever loose timing chain. AND, no one makes a chain or sprockets that will take up the extra slop/slack. Tom T.

Frank, I'm sure I have extras but they are getting harder & harder to find. $20.00 + shipping to Germany unless you have an address here in the U.S. then I will include shipping. Tom T.

Ed, Does your car have A/C??? IF it has A/C the shouldered part of the bolt will be 1/4" longer. IF NOT 2 bolts at 1/2" longer. Tom T.

I've seen replacement relays click because the wire inside is broken. I remove the cover & solder the wires back together. Tom T.

COULD also be someone in the past has done an align bore/hone , which is a no-no on a "Nail", during the course of a re-build. TomT.

When you connect a 12 Volt lead to the terminal & IF the horn doesn't operate while holding the 12 volt wire, with knowing it has a GOOD ground, tap the horn with a hammer/rubber mallet IF there's corrosion/rust inside it may now operate. Tom T.

Top pic is '65 2nd,pic is '64 although it will fit a '63 also. '63 does NOT have the "R" in the center but the Buick Trishield. Tom T.

Pick up an original stock mat & feel the weight difference between the two Tom T.

Brtele, The mounts IMO are fairly easy to replace. BUT, I don't think it may have anything to do with the groan. I would be more inclined to suspect the trans. mount. Tom T.

BrianM, I don't think you will be able to tell ANY differences. I have NEVER had any complaints about such or experienced any notable differences. I've had them in the front of my Riv. for about 40 years now. Definitely tightens up the back & forth motion of the lower control arm. With the stock rubber bushings have someone drive the car backwards & step on the brakes kinda hard & then forward to actually see how much the tire moves. I would be interested IF you have ANY complaints or problems I could pass onto others. Tom T.

NO set screws Ed. Tom T.

BrianM, I have Poly strut rod/brake reaction rod bushings in stock. I modify the inner bushing to give a little more positive caster along with advanced alignment specs. Washers are installed as original just clean off any heavy rust & paint. Haven't had ANY failures as of date. $50.00 plus shipping. Tom T.

Yes you can Kevin. Tom T.

Yes Tom T.

Replies to "this page does not exist". Tom T.

Ed, As far as I know the Sanden compressor is a bolt-in & bolts to the existing Alt/A/C bracket. Since it's smaller & lighter you don't need the rear support bracket. Leave EVERYTHING else the same as stock including the controls. With ANY of the aftermarket stuff they ONLY recycle inside air so you have NO fresh air available from the exterior & blending heater with A/C is marginal. Save yourself the grief & frustration & reuse what you already have IF it's operational. Use R-12 as it will use everything you have already. What MOST don't say about 134 is in reality it requires a different A/C condenser, evaporator & receiver dryer/accumulator, hoses, oil, complete flushing etc. AND, R12 cools better & has come down in price in recent years. Just my thoughts. Tom T.

Left & right balls are different. I have a center outlet along with the parts that go along with it. I MAY ALSO have the correct balls that I will install new felts into & restore. Not cheap, BUT complete. Tom T.

Another thing to be aware of. IF the car has A/C with a shroud when the motor rises because of a broken mount it "could" contact & break the shroud with the fan blade. Tom T.