tripwire

Rafael, I hope we didn't insult you or otherwise hurt your feelings with our postings. We can be a cynical bunch of grey beards here and usually the comments are meant to be in fun. It's nice to see people involved with old cars regardless of where they are from or what area of interest they have; our interest is very diverse, much like the people we interact with. I'm sure you'll find quite a few of us can and do find many car related items to collect: model cars, books, pictures, posters, badges, car show plaques, etc. I'd love to be able to afford and store all the cars I find interesting and exciting but I'm no Jay Leno. Good luck with your modeling. Wes in VT

When I saw one for the first time I thought it was a booster stage for an Out of This World Experience. And, Larry's right: Zip Code, Area Code, etc. Continent? Maybe that's why it's called a continent(al) kit?

Once the new owner goes over this truck with his weed-wacker he'll be writing in to this forum to ask how hard will it be to stuff a small block chevy in it along with 12 volt electrics, AC & disc brakes. Just to make it more reliable. Wes in VT

This 10 year old thread is still relevant today and we've talked about this subject a lot. I always find it interesting these folks want a modern V8 in an nice old car that's been around for 50, 60, 70 or more years and the reason is usually something like, "I want this car to be more reliable." My question is, how much more reliable can you get than a machine that's been running for all those years? And, of course, as we all know, sure it's got a new engine but how does that insure reliability? There's a lot more to a car than the engine. In my years in the GM Service dept. we would see all types of failures that would sideline a car and the percentage of engine failures was always tiny compared to all of the other categories of failure. And it seems a portion of those failures were a result of negligence on the part of the owner. "Why do I need to check the oil, it's a new car, well it was 3 years ago." or, "That squealing noise has been going on for weeks now. I'm no mechanic, how am I supposed to know what's bad?" As far as the wedding car thing. It seems like this is the one of two or three basic questions that come up. Every time I buy another old car that has a back seat I get a lot of people asking me if I'm going to rent it out for weddings. I always shake my head no. "Why not?" I tell them more than likely the wedding will be on a Saturday in the summer and I'll have to miss a car show to stand around in a tux listening to a bridezilla complain about my car. The doors are too small. Where's the AC? Where's everyone going to sit? There's only room for 3 of us in here. Why can't I have champagne with my bridesmaids in the backseat while you drive us to the reception? Don't put the top down until we're parked, I don't want my hair messed up. Hurry up and put the top down so we can get some pictures. The other common questions include: Is this a gangster car? No, regular folks drive cars, too. and, What does it get for gas mileage? If I was worried about gas mileage I'd be driving a moped. Enough for now. Wes in VT.

I don't know the make of car but the fellow leaning against it looks a lot like Anton Westgard. Wes in VT

Here's one that I just experienced. I was looking at this listing for a Voltage Regulator. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1940-55-Cadillac-Kaiser-Packard-Nash-Rambler-Studebaker-NOS-Voltage-Regulator/263386812272?hash=item3d5313cf70:g:RJMAAOSwEZdaMdz2&vxp=mtr I couldn't quite make out the part number on the box in the picture so I wrote to the seller. The attached screen shot shows the conversation. I guess it's my fault I didn't ask this person to just read the number on the box. Wes in VT

Hello, I just discovered Hagerty Insurance is offering a 5% discount to car club members. No verification needed. Just call and they send you a check. Not retroactive but the future is what you make it. Wes in VT

Cool, we don't see may SEAT's here in the US.

This guy's got one.

The copper exhaust manifold gaskets bring $40 - $50 for a complete set. Do you have all three? The fuel pumps are Flathead Ford. Again, only good for cores. Put them with the others you've already found.

VL2, the carb above this cadillac is for mid 80s Chrysler Corp 4 cyl. cars. Core value $35. Rebuilders are getting about $150 - $200 for rebuilt units with warranty.

The box marked 1938 shutter stat is a thermostat for a Cadillac or Lasalle. Fits several years. In working condition it will easily bring a couple hundred bucks. New ones are priced at about $500.00 these days. Test it the way C Carl mentioned.

Stylish, It might be helpful to tell folks what kind of car you want inspected. Knowledgeable in one area does not an expert in all areas.

Chris, Nice looking car. You might think about posting this car on the Cadillac Lasalle forum. I'm sure they'd be interested. http://forums.cadillaclasalleclub.org/ WParo in VT

Chris, Nice looking car. You might think about posting this car on the Cadillac Lasalle forum. I'm sure they'd be interested. http://forums.cadillaclasalleclub.org/ WParo in VT

Mike6024, Those boots don't appear everywhere. Here in VT we don't use them at all and I'm sure there are plenty of other states that don't use them either. WParo in VT

Have a look at this. I don't know if it applies to your 47. http://hudsonrestoration1948-54.com/Engine.htm Scroll down a bit and there's a section titled: TIPS TO TRY WHEN A SUPER SIX or HORNET WILL NOT START

These people in Malone, NY have 23 Rickenbacker for sale. They've had it for quite some time. https://www.anbclassics.com/1923_RICKENBACKER_B6 COUPE_Malone_NY_252120168.veh

Years ago, no one used gloves in those days. One of my diesel mechanics would use CRC Carb-Clean or similar to get the heavy stuff off, then wash his hands with regular soap and water. Once I found him in the back room with his hands in the 5 gallon pail of carburetor soak so I asked him what he was doing. He said he wanted his hands clean because he was going out on a date in the evening and didn't want the woman to see his hands that normally would have some remnants of grease stains on them. I have to say after he rinsed the chemicals off his hands did come out clean with no dark marks anywhere and once the red skin calmed back down his hands looked like he sold insurance or some other pencil pusher job, only with calluses. WParo in VT

VL2, So far I haven't seen anything that I would tell you to just throw away. But, you have your work cut out for you figuring out how to ID & price everything. I would recommend, as others already have said, spend some time on the internet looking for comparable sales, just google the item if you can read the brand name, etc. Also, Craigslist, ebay completed auctions will be helpful. The tools should be easy, the ignition parts in the cabinet would go as one unit for several hundred dollars. The fuel pumps won't be ethanol tolerant so they will have value as cores. Brake shoes are inexpensive so make a pile and hope for some one to make an offer. The old ones will have asbestos in them. The alternators you showed us would have core value unless they could be tested, probably too much trouble though. And, if you could find a way to number the photos it would make things easier for us to help you. If you have a windows computer you can use Paint to add a text box on the JPG image. I hope this is helpful for you. I know it's a difficult task with lots of heart ache involved but you seem to be a strong and focused individual. Please know we are all here to help as best we can. Wes Paro in VT

Yeah, another eBay bidder that can't read. Years ago I tried selling on eBay as a business and spent a great deal of time answering stupid questions. "your description says that item is 12 inches by 12 inches, how big is it?" "your description says it's blue and it looks blue in the pictures but what color is it?" "I see your opening bid is $XX, will you take #X?" They would always want to offer half or less. You guys know what I'm talking about, those same people reply to Craigslist or other ads the same way. They offer way less than your asking price even before they see what you have. And there were the ones that would write in after the auction ends to ask their questions. "I see that item sold for $XX. If they don't pay would you sell it to me for your opening bid?" "I just won this item? When will I receive it?" Of course they hadn't paid yet. I learned to block these bidders because if they were stupid before they got their items their level of intelligence was sure to drop even more once they received it. WParo in VT

Scroll down on the main page and look for the Buick forum.

Here's another one: http://www.55buick.com/what/

Post a picture of the Data Plate. It's on the upper cowl panel near the wiper motor under the hood.

VL2, The 8BAs are Ford V8s from 1949 era. The same basic engine was offered from 1949 - 1953 in ford cars. The trucks had different ID. These have some value, 100s of dollars, if they are not cracked. Problem is, usually they need to be disassembled to find the cracks. EAB is 1953. The 7HA is a 6 cylinder of the same era, 49-53. Not as interesting to folks as the V8s but there will be someone willing to pay for this. The transmission in the second photo is a 3 speed with overdrive, same era. Unknown condition $100 or maybe a more depending on how bad someone wants it. The other one appears to be a 3 speed, same era. same value +/- You might try looking at this site. You'll find a lot of flathead people there: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/ Good luck, WParo in VT