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castillo49

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About castillo49

  • Birthday 07/26/1949

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  1. 1941 Cadillac La Salle ? Selling as one package, no parting out. Cash Only No written or verbal warranties. No return. Sold on Bill of Sale. Not a Cadillac guy, so I know very little on car and parts. Can be towed locally for additional cost. Ask questions. $1,500 Frank 909 296-0980 frankjocelyncastillo@gma
  2. Looking for intake manifold for 352 engine for a 58 Ford retractable. Manifold for a "8 cylinder - 4 barrel Interceptor (Thunderbird Special)". I may be able to pick up if not too far. Current Ford has wrong manifold. Frank 1(909) 296-0980
  3. Thank you Ozstatman for the lead. Found exactly what I needed at Steele Rubber. Ordered a pair. Thank you .......
  4. Thanks for the reply. Post 2 pictures. And called Restoration Supply. They don't have any. Saw something online at Auto Zone which may work ... with some creative changes. Going there tomorrow. Frank
  5. Hello Out There, Am looking for "door check straps" for a 1929 "130" Coupe and a 1929 "135" Victoria Brougham. Leads would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Frank In Southern California
  6. Hello Everyone, Can someone tell me brand, make, or part numbers for points and condensers for these 2 engines. 1. Down-draft engines - a 1929 series 130 Coupe and a 1929 series 135 Victoria 2. Side draft engines - 1933 Olympic Coupe & 1933 Olympic Sedan I need to do tune ups and have no extra points or condensers for these engines. Looking for leads to know what I need and where I can go. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you in advance .... Frank In Southern California
  7. Thanks Paul. As always, you are a valuable friend to all of us Franklin guys ..... Frank
  8. Update: Not looking for free help / service. Just need someone or shop that he can trust with the car and the costs to repair. His name is also Frank (909) 229-3481, if you want to talk with him directly .... Frank In Lucerne Valley.
  9. Hi Everyone, Received a call from a Franklin owner in Ontario, Ca. (I forgot to ask how he got my number). He is having problems on his car. So I went to looked at it. It is a very original Series 130 sedan. But the car has not been worked on in years. He said that the car runs good, but has issues. And he knows very little about the car or how to work on it. I gave him a quick lesson on the Franklin. But as I don't have the time or energy to take on this work, I am helping him look for someone in Southern California who can work on it. What the car needs imediately: the clutch and brakes need to be repaired. Then, the engine needs to be looked at. He is willing to send the car somewhere to be fixed. Is there anyone in Southern California who can help this fellow Franklin guy out? Let me know and I will pass your information on to him. Thanks, Frank (909) 296-0980
  10. Mike, I removed washer #2. Tower now fits well with thin gasket ... as it should. Running chassis is now restored and complete ready for the next step, the body. As always, thanks Mike for the advice and information. Frank In California
  11. Hi Everyone, My question is "on mounting a distributor tower to block." Background: 1933 Olympic Coupe - side draft. On mounting the tower back, there is a large gap between the tower base and the block. The gasket I received in a kit is paper thin, not nearly enough to close gap if tighten (see pictures). I also noticed the oil pump shaft has 2 washers. If I remove washer #2, tower sits better. But was the washer put there for a reason awhile back. Without the second washer, gears meet more in middle. But why was it there in first place. Also, it seems different than the first, floating brass washer. What is the "set-up" for the oil pump shaft into block ... 1 washer or 2. And does the "distributor tower to block" require a thick gasket? Any diagrams on the correct set-up or pictures would be greatly appreciated. As always, Thanks Frank In California
  12. Hi Mike, Frank out in California. I would be interested in a pair of oak locks for my 29 Coupe. I have a pair of tire holders that fit into the fenders. Just need the locks. Sent along picture of tire holder. Let me know if available and how much to send with shipping. Thanks, Frank
  13. Thank you "Franklin Family" for all the views, and specially the comments given on this site. And thank you to those that have reached out to me on my email account, specially Paul. Your very lengthly email on our situation was really great and eye opening. Jocelyn and I have learned allot and been pointed to several new directions. We are still in the research mode and figuring out which way to go on this Coupe's roof. As suggested, the roof has been carefully removed and saved as patterns. And the roof's wood has been repaired for some minor stuff. As we have several Franklins and Rickenbackers waiting to have roofs replaced, so we continue as to what we can do on our budget ..... To all, thank you again, Frank
  14. Hi, Looking for additional information / research on "putting a top on a 29 "130" Coupe. This coupe does not have a flat top where one piece of material can be installed without having to worry about curves and round corners. I have read the "instruction" at the club site. But they are for "one piece of material installed on a somewhat flat roof area." Jocelyn & I have figured out the material and how to install the cotton and burlap. The roof bows and wood are in great shape, as is the chicken wire. And we have an idea of what needs to be done with the roof material. We believe there are 4 pieces/patterns of the roof material that need to be installed to get around the curves and corners of the roof where it goes down. Just want alittle more information/research on how to attach the pieces together, specially by the rumble seat area. Jocelyn and I believe we can do this roof job once we get past these problems of getting around the curves/corners and attaching the 4 pieces together. Also, a good source for "dip channels and trim" would be helpful. You can see the dip channel in one of the pictures. Any help on videos or where to continue our research would be greatly appreciated. Some pictures are enclosed. Thanks in advance .... Frank
  15. Thanks guys for the information. I am exploring the "heater problem" further with a visit to several machine shops. Going to see if the holes/breaks can be repaired. Will keep you posted. Frank
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