64Rivvy

Mine was plugged just like that when I got the car and didnt appear to cause issues. I'm just now completing a full rebuild and replacement of the heat and ac system so will be hooking it back up soon.

Not too big of a deal. Just wasnt sure if there was any sort of science or reason to have that loop there. Figured there must be a reason. Thanks.

Thanks guys. I was actually able.to find one after reaching out to a parts guy I know like RivNut suggested. Not as cheap but already blasted and primed so no extra work for me should have thought to reach out first. More proof the interwebs are making me stupid.

Hey guys. One other question on this. The service manual shows the upper 3/4 hose coming off the firewall with a small loop. Is there a reason that loop is needed? I tried to replicate it but my heater hose just kinks and collapses when I try to make a loop that tight. Sorry just trying to get everything set back up as oem as possible. Thank you. I included a pic of the diagram I'm referring to. Raul

Currently putting on a new thermostat inlet housing and noticed my fuel filter bracket is missing. It's just hanging there. Does anyone reproduce this part or know where I could find one. It's for a 64 AC car. Not seeing any from CARS, opgi, or any on ebay. Thanks. Raul

Thank you for clarifying. Now that I can be certain its the 4700 series that makes a lot of other diagrams I was referencing much more useful as well.

Thanks guys. I printed out diagram 11-37. Between that and these pictures I am golden. Diagram 11-37 threw me off when I saw it in the manual bc it says it's for then4700 series which is a wildcat and riviera is supposed to be 4800 but that def looks the closest to my ac system setup. Thank you all for the help. Will post some pics when I get it mounted. Raul

Thanks guys. I have looked through the diagrams in the shop manual but have not seen any illustrations that show exactly where the valve is mounted on a 64 and I'm not finding any existing holes where I though it would go on the pass inner fenderwell. To my knowledge the 64 used a manual gate valve that is currently about impossible to find. There is one on ebay now for 250 and I'm not paying that . I am using a manual valve from a 70s bronco that works fine and I fabricated a bracket to mount it to the original oem bracket.

Does anyone have a pic of the factory correct mounting location for the heater control valve on a 64? I just fabricated a bracket to mount a new manual control valve to the oem bracket. However, I dont think where it was previously mounted was correct and I want to make sure to put it in the correct location. Thanks, Raul

I just removed mine and used dynamat style insulation there instead. Its superior to the old batting insulation and also provides additional sound deadening on the tunnel. I actually put down stinger roadkill insulation (similar to dynamat but better amd cheaper) in my entire interior when I recently redid the upholstery and carpeting. I also put it behind the dash and on the underside of the dash cover panel and on the panel behind the rear seats. If you want to stick with something similar to that original batting, lowes and home depot sells similar batting insulation with foil on one.side. its sold near the plumbing pipe insulation in like 10 foot rolls. I put some of that on my firewall and behind the desk where the roadkill wouldn't fit or.didnt make sense. Raul

Thanks. My bracket mounts dont seem to come down that low on the bushings and I think a lot of the rubber on them has disintegrated . They stop more like at the top of the rubber bushings versus coming down and sitting on them. I'm going to find a piece of rubber hose or something to slide over them to fatten them up for a better fit with the brackets. I dont think anyone reproduces the lower condenser rubber mounts that I'm aware of. Raul

Hey everyone. Finally getting some time to work on the Riviera again. I'm installing a new radiator, hoses, thermostat, fan shroud, transmission cooling lines, and condenser. Does anyone have any pictures or details on how the lower condenser brackets properly mount to the rubber mounts/bushings on the lower frame crossmember? Cant tell if they just sort of rest on the rubber mounts, or if the brackets actually get bolted on there somehow. Not sure if I may be missing any original large mounting washers. Right now I have it bolted at the top and just sort of sitting on the rubber mounts at the bottom but seems way to loose and unsecured. Any help is appreciated. Thanks. Raul

I am currently using Stinger Roadkill to insulate all my floors, doors and any large panels prone to vibration. It is comprable to Dynamat Extreme but is not quite as good, but pretty darn close. I've done cars with Dynamat extreme and the difference in vibration, sound and temp is significant versus no or stock deadeners. I figured the Stinger is a good compromise on price to insulate and sound deaden the Riviera considering how much of it is needed to do it properly. If you are willing to cut and fit yourself, you can get a much better product for much less than the pre-cute stuff from OPGI etc. I can post some pics of what it looks like so far if you're interested. The problem with the asphalt/tar based products is that many of them eventually fail by losing their adhesive properties and many of them also pop off fumes in the driving area. I know some people have had good luck with them, but I would stay away from them and the cheaper deadeners that are asphalt based. It's not a job you want to have to do twice or have to deal with the car smelling inside that cabin. Ed - I'm not sure about bookmarking, but what I do for that is I follow the thread and then just turn the notifications off. Lets me go back and find it later by listing out threads I'm following.

One idea is to try to call Rubber the Right Way or one of the places that specialize in rubber and seals for classics and they may know where to get them or at least what size they are.

They also sell them In 10 packs on eBay. I found 3 or 4 broken when I replaced all my dash Bulls recently. Was the reason a number of them weren't working.

Thanks for posting this. I was looking for this same information.

There is someone on eBay that sells precut vinyl leatherette trim on eBay. I put the link below. Anyone have any experience with this or know if the quality and look is correct. Mine is ok but a bit third. Basically have to put vinylex on it weekly to keep it,looking decent. http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=321797136707&globalID=EBAY-US

Bill, for the sanden from vintage air, did you have to fabricate a bracket? I really don't want to mess with any of that if I can avoid it. The four seasons sea foam mentioned would be perfect, however I've read some reviews to stay away from any of the four seasons parts. Not sure if anyone has experience with four seasons parts here.

I plan to put in an optima with a topper when I replace mine soon. I put optimas in all my cars and never have problems. They are bulletproof and worth the extra money and the fact they are sealed is another big plus.

Good deal - Let us know how it goes. Get some video of the fire up and post it for us. I know it sucks to have to pull it all apart again but think about what would have happened if you hadn't caught it now versus later. Good luck!

Where are you seeing that? I only see the two grooves on the Sanden style. The Pro6Ten all show one groove only and Vintage Air said they only make them with one groove. If they can be had with 2 grooves that would solve my problem.

My original compressor (64 Riviera) needs to be rebuilt. I really would like to replace it with one of the new Pro6Ten compressors since they are quieter, more efficient and will actually be cheaper than a rebuild. Quote to rebuild the original is about $500 and it will take roughly 6-8 weeks. The problem is that the Pro6Ten compressors are 1 groove and made to work with one belt. My original compressor is a 2 groove pulley that's designed to use 2 belts. Oddly enough, right now the previous owner was running it with just 1 belt since the A/C system was not being used. Do I need both belts, or can I just use one belt and go with the Pro6Ten. Trying to make sure that will work and was also trying to understand the advantage and the reason for 2 belts in the original stock configuration. Thanks.

I think it may have been parker-hannifan at one time. Now they are called Parker, at least the one near me. The one near me deals primarily with industrial and commercial applications but the hoses are the same, actually stronger than automotive grade. In my case I converted my fittings to AN-6 so it was very easy for them to make the hose but they seemed to have every fitting under the sun in the store, so as long as you bring the hose with you I'm sure they can replicate it I did find this on Ebay. it says it will fit a 67 Riviera so might be what you need. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Omega-Power-Steering-Pressure-Hose-821-/161480490312?fits=Year%3A1967%7CModel%3ARiviera&hash=item2598fcbd48:g:DoIAAOSwmUdUYTqP&vxp=mtr Raul

I know you said you checked Steele rubber but did you see this one? Looks like it could possibly work. http://www.steelerubber.com/firewall-grommet-60-0013-20

just smell it - there is no mistaking diff oil for water. it just plain stinks..