64Rivvy

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Everything posted by 64Rivvy

  1. I am currently using Stinger Roadkill to insulate all my floors, doors and any large panels prone to vibration. It is comprable to Dynamat Extreme but is not quite as good, but pretty darn close. I've done cars with Dynamat extreme and the difference in vibration, sound and temp is significant versus no or stock deadeners. I figured the Stinger is a good compromise on price to insulate and sound deaden the Riviera considering how much of it is needed to do it properly. If you are willing to cut and fit yourself, you can get a much better product for much less than the pre-cute stuff from OPGI etc. I can post some pics of what it looks like so far if you're interested. The problem with the asphalt/tar based products is that many of them eventually fail by losing their adhesive properties and many of them also pop off fumes in the driving area. I know some people have had good luck with them, but I would stay away from them and the cheaper deadeners that are asphalt based. It's not a job you want to have to do twice or have to deal with the car smelling inside that cabin. Ed - I'm not sure about bookmarking, but what I do for that is I follow the thread and then just turn the notifications off. Lets me go back and find it later by listing out threads I'm following.
  2. One idea is to try to call Rubber the Right Way or one of the places that specialize in rubber and seals for classics and they may know where to get them or at least what size they are.
  3. They also sell them In 10 packs on eBay. I found 3 or 4 broken when I replaced all my dash Bulls recently. Was the reason a number of them weren't working.
  4. Thanks for posting this. I was looking for this same information.
  5. There is someone on eBay that sells precut vinyl leatherette trim on eBay. I put the link below. Anyone have any experience with this or know if the quality and look is correct. Mine is ok but a bit third. Basically have to put vinylex on it weekly to keep it,looking decent. http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=321797136707&globalID=EBAY-US
  6. Bill, for the sanden from vintage air, did you have to fabricate a bracket? I really don't want to mess with any of that if I can avoid it. The four seasons sea foam mentioned would be perfect, however I've read some reviews to stay away from any of the four seasons parts. Not sure if anyone has experience with four seasons parts here.
  7. I plan to put in an optima with a topper when I replace mine soon. I put optimas in all my cars and never have problems. They are bulletproof and worth the extra money and the fact they are sealed is another big plus.
  8. Good deal - Let us know how it goes. Get some video of the fire up and post it for us. I know it sucks to have to pull it all apart again but think about what would have happened if you hadn't caught it now versus later. Good luck!
  9. Where are you seeing that? I only see the two grooves on the Sanden style. The Pro6Ten all show one groove only and Vintage Air said they only make them with one groove. If they can be had with 2 grooves that would solve my problem.
  10. My original compressor (64 Riviera) needs to be rebuilt. I really would like to replace it with one of the new Pro6Ten compressors since they are quieter, more efficient and will actually be cheaper than a rebuild. Quote to rebuild the original is about $500 and it will take roughly 6-8 weeks. The problem is that the Pro6Ten compressors are 1 groove and made to work with one belt. My original compressor is a 2 groove pulley that's designed to use 2 belts. Oddly enough, right now the previous owner was running it with just 1 belt since the A/C system was not being used. Do I need both belts, or can I just use one belt and go with the Pro6Ten. Trying to make sure that will work and was also trying to understand the advantage and the reason for 2 belts in the original stock configuration. Thanks.
  11. I think it may have been parker-hannifan at one time. Now they are called Parker, at least the one near me. The one near me deals primarily with industrial and commercial applications but the hoses are the same, actually stronger than automotive grade. In my case I converted my fittings to AN-6 so it was very easy for them to make the hose but they seemed to have every fitting under the sun in the store, so as long as you bring the hose with you I'm sure they can replicate it I did find this on Ebay. it says it will fit a 67 Riviera so might be what you need. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Omega-Power-Steering-Pressure-Hose-821-/161480490312?fits=Year%3A1967%7CModel%3ARiviera&hash=item2598fcbd48:g:DoIAAOSwmUdUYTqP&vxp=mtr Raul
  12. I know you said you checked Steele rubber but did you see this one? Looks like it could possibly work. http://www.steelerubber.com/firewall-grommet-60-0013-20
  13. just smell it - there is no mistaking diff oil for water. it just plain stinks..
  14. If you aren't able to find a stock replacement, just bring the original with you and take it to a Parker store. They just made me a custom high steering pressure line for my Camaro last week. Took them less than 10 min and cost was $24. I initially built my own lines using a kit with the reusable compression fittings, but no matter what I tried, they leaked and I knew at some point it was going to pop off which would be catastrophic since the power steering line also feeds the hydroboost brake system I installed. One other note if you do get the Parker lines. They have their name and website address stamped on the hose in bright yellow. I used a small amount of lacquer thinner on a towel to remove the writing and the hose is now just plain black and looks stock.
  15. Thanks guys. I ordered the Eastwood underhood black and will also look for the Krylon and spray a few test panels out to see which looks closest. I re-sprayed the dash panels with rustoleum matte nickel and the color and finish came out spot on. I actually can't believe how nice it came out. Will post some pics once I reinstall the dash. Just waiting on the duct ball/vent felt that is supposed to arrive tomorrow. If only someone made reproductions of the finned aluminum panels on the dash, I could make it 100% perfect. Mine are in good shape but still have a few dings and scratches.
  16. Yeah I think the reason I was all alone on this one is that it looks like the evaporator box may have been replaced at some point with a later year Harrison unit. That was the reason the expansion valve and a few other things were different. I just finished putting the whole vent and evaporator assembly back in last night. I can honestly say that restoring the heating and cooling system on this car is truly one of the outer rings of Hell, but I am determined to get the factory heat and air working..
  17. That's a good point Ed. I know my local sherwin williams will do color matching and then put it into an aerosol spray can. I think I will go that route if no one knows of an off the shelf rattle can paint because they are really close to me. I don't need it to be exact, just close and I think the sheen is the most important on this. It seems to be somewhere between flat and satin. Thanks, Raul
  18. I'm repainting the matte silver on my dash panels as I redo my interior. I would also like to repaint the black on all my dash trim strips that run around the edges of the dash panels because the black is flaking off in some places. I am going to scuff and repaint these while I have them off. Does anyone have any suggestions on the best brand and color black to use? I've been using rustoleum satin black for a lot of parts, but not sure that is going to be the correct color and finish for the trim strips. Thanks.
  19. I finally found the expansion valve I needed. It is a Murray expansion valve, part number EV 7302 in case anyone else runs into this issue in the future.
  20. My rear power quarter windows aren't working at all and I want to test and fix them while I have the interior apart right now. Currently painting floors, have installed dynamat/stinger roadkill and am redoing carpeting, upholstery and panels. Is there a way to test the rear windows by bypassing the switches? I know I have power going to the back, I just want to rule out bad switches and figure out where the issue actually is. I have the full size laminated wiring diagram and shop manual, but am hoping someone has done this before and can give me some pointers. Thanks.
  21. I got all of my seat foam from opgi and upholstery from clarks corvair. I believe CARS and a number of other vendors have them also. I would be sure to buy from someone who deals with rivieras and understands the foam is different from other buicks of the same years.
  22. On my 64 there is only a chrome one on the drivers side and carpeting on the pass side. The pass side may be missing but you would never really notice. I have also seen chrome replacements on ebay for both the drivers and pass side. Unless you really want the panel there, there's nothing stopping you from eliminating as far as I know unless something is different there in a 63 versus a 64.
  23. I would definitely replace the glasspacks since you already know you don't really care for the sound. They will also only get louder and louder over time. I would go with one of the quieter magnaflow muffler sets and ask the muffler shop to mount them where they think drone would be minimized the most. I recently switched out a set of magnaflows on my 69 Camaro to a set of Stainless Works mufflers I got from SpeedTech. They have a nice low rumble at idle, scream when you hit the gas hard, but are relatively mellow at cruising speeds and normal driving. The Magnaflows on there were so loud and the drone was killing me, but I know they were the loudest magnaflows you can get so that was part of the problem. The sound should be pretty similar between the 455 and 425 but much of it has to do with the cam in each each engine, particularly the sound it will make when idling and at lower speeds. Let us know what you end up doing. Raul
  24. as far as I can tell the reason for this difference is to accommodate the optional armrest that was available in 65. At some point maybe I will add an armrest in my 64 if I can find one for a decent price. I went ahead and stripped it down and painted the frame so hopefully there won't be any fitment issues.
  25. My original seat frame was toast so I was able to find another one. I am cleaning the replacement up and getting ready to re-upholster. In the process of comparing and measuring, I'm seeing one small difference between the two different frames. I think the new frame may be from a 65. Everything else measurement wise seems to line up. The two brackets in the middle where the center panel or armrest goes, is slightly different on my original frame. On the original, the two brackets were bent/curved downward towards the back of the seat/trunk where on the replacement frame these two brackets stick straight up. I included pictures below for reference. Does anyone know if this is going to cause me any fitment issues? The center panel that goes between the two seats still seems to fit fine. I just wanted to double check before putting the new backing and foam on there. If I have to do any bending or grinding, would be better to do it now. Thanks. Old/Original Frame Replacement Frame Replacement on left, Original Frame on the right