64Rivvy

Thanks Pat. Will check that out. That huge gap where it's sagging is def bothering me but Ive wasted enough time on this and had to move forward. Any ideas on where I could find one of those?

I finally got some time to get this done. It took a while longer bc i decided to tape and respray the black trim and ball vent black paint. I also resprayed the silver on the actual plastic plastic bc i must have scratched it up again. A few pointers for anyone doing this and installing a replacement glove door or reinstalling you old door. 1. Cover the entire front of the glove box door with blue or green painters tape when reinstalling. You can only get the dash door in by sliding in from the back and there is no way not to scratch it. Luckily I was paying attention and got away with only a light scratch before I realized and covered it in tape. 2. For the dash panel surround trim ball vent black inside the vent ball, i used eastwood underwood black. It laid down very nice and flat and the color is almost spot on. 3. I added felt to the front and rear of the ball vent as discussed earlier in this thread but my suspicion is that it really is only needed at the rear of the ball vent. I just left well enough alone bc the plastic was starting to crack from taking it on and off so many times. Here some pics of it done and then installed in the car. I still need to finish up the trim once I install the lower panel. It can never look perfectly new without being able to replace the finned aluminum panels but it now looks lightly used instead of trashed like it originally did. Quick recap of what I did on this. 1. Removed pass dash panel and removed old glove box door that was basically trashed. One of the plastic mounts on the panel that holds the door was broken and had to be braced with aluminum and epoxied. 2. Found a replacement glove box door on eBay that was in good shape. 3. Sanded,filled and primed plastic dash panel with rustoleum rattle can. I have another post where I give the exact color. I can't remember it. Had to tape out around finned aluminum panels 4. Cleaned up and Polished map/courtesy light mount and replaced lens. 5. Replaced glove and map light bulbs. Will probably replace with led's later to reduce further warping from bulb heat 6. Taped and sprayed dash surround trim and inside vent ball with eastwood black 7. Polished finned aluminum with #0000 steel wool. 8. Repaired and reinstalled black felt glove box liner 8. Misc epoxy and filler repairs to screw mounting points and cracks. Will add a few more pics when fully installed that are better daylight pics. Took these in the garage at night. Thanks for all the help from you guys to get this done. Was a very fragile and fiddly exercise but got it done.

I sent you a PM. I'm interested in the hood V trim. Thanks. Raul

I can't tells where the actual glove box (black felt box) and the glove box door might overlap and if I assemble the glove box and door outside of the car or i have to screw it you mounts on the dash support inside the car all at once. The screws originally in there were a mishmash with some missing so that's not helping either. There is also an extra oval metal support and I can't remember if there are just one or two of those. The finned aluminum is so delicate and the plastic is brittle so I only want to do it once before stuff starts cracking. I will figure out if theres no readily available diagrams, but figured I would give it another shot. Thanks.

Bump on this. Hoping to do this later today or tomorrow so hoping I get lucky, otherwise will hack it together.

Makes sense. Thanks for confirming. Will do that before I put the dash back in. Now if I can just figure out the right way to get the glove box and and glovebox door back on.

Do you have the shop manuals? They will help a lot but you might still have questions and people here can help. Are you looking for someone to reassemble it for you nearby, or for help on how to do it yourself? A little unclear in your ask.

I'm trying to put my pass dash panel glovebox and glovebox door back together. I bought it would be straightforward and never took any pics originally when i disassembled it a few years ago. Does anyone have an assembly diagram for this? I went through each of my shop manuals but couldn't find anything on it.

I was going through my 64 Riviera shop manual looking for glove box assembly instructions today and came across this below. Does anyone know of these special magical washers of which the manual speaks?

Rockinrividad, Is this showing that you put felt on both the front edge of the vent housing like my pic number 1 above, and then also on the inner lip of the air vent? I tried the felt on just the air vent inner lip initially and it made no difference, but I didn't think that maybe the felt would go in both places. If that's the correct way I can take it apart and add it to the lip on the air vent tube bc i haven't reinstalled the dash panel yet.

To actually remove the ball vents you need to remove the dash panels and there are bolts and screws that hold the assembly in place. The felt strips i got i think we're for a chevelle and i got them from someplace like inline tube or classic industries. I had passenger side dash panel off bc i replaced the evaporator. I plan to replace the driver's side without removing the panel.

Thanks guys. I did this last night using the felt location in my first pic. I ended up using rubber cement instead of contact cement to give me more time to position it. Took a little longer but came out well. I reassembled it and will post a finished pic later today when i get a few min.

I'm going to roll the dice and go with the option the first pic if no one confirms. Trying to get it all back together.

My ball vents had no original felt left so not sure how they go. Which of the locations below is correct. Does the felt go all the way up to the edge, or further back like the second pic. I am planning to just adhere it with contact cement.

I got mine from opgi. I would check with clarks to see if they still sell it as they may have a better source or better quality foam. Opgi foam was pretty good, just would recommend your upholsterer bolster the sides and edges for a more oem rounded puffy look if you like that look.

Art. They are not reproduced anywhere.

Still looking for this part if anyone has one. Thanks.

I'm looking for the front passenger side wheel arch trim piece for my 64. I have one but it's a bit too far gone to reuse. Thought i could hammer it out and polish it but it's too far gone. Thanks.

Bill. Do you know if these trim pieces were also supposed to be there on a 64? I recently redid my seats and carpet and installed the seats back in and remembered thinking they looked a little bare at the bottom of the seats like maybe something should be there.

Ro65, Thanks. I tired that with a sharpie and it was ok but not ideal. Was thinking maybe a flat black paint pen might work if used sparingly. The flat would likely blend in better and not show any gloss. If no one has any specific suggestions I will try a few different ones and report back.

Has anyone found a good black paint for small touch up on the black dash trim strips that go around the outside of the dash for a 64? Mine is in pretty good shape except for a few small spots here and there so would work well to touch up versus respraying all of it.

cquisuila, I'm sure it was just some fuel in there. There are several reasons there could be fuel in there such as carb issues allowing fuel to leak back into intake, someone not changing the oil for way too long, too many short trips. I would put fresh oil in it and run it and see how it does. I would also do another oil change again pretty soon to see if you have this issue again and also to make sure it has nice fresh oil.

iMO that price is way too high for a car that is not running. Way too many unknowns and my guess is there's a reason it's not running. My advice is once you get to 15k and above on these cars they should be pretty good runners with most mechanicals worked out. Under 10k you should be expecting work proportional to the amount you pay for it. If you're willing to pay around 15 to 20k you should be able to find a pretty nice running car where someone else had already done most of the heavy lifting already and what's left is mostly cosmetic work remaining like paint, re-chrome, interior work etc.

Ed, This is great general advice you have given before that has really helped me personally on my 64 restoration. I tend to be a perfectionist and overanalyze and we're all in a restoration mindset. The reality is they were banging these cars through the production line focused on volume. When you step back and look at it through that lens it's amazing how you can just move forward and make progress knowing what decision they most likely would have made on the production line.

Yes that diagram is correct based on my experience just doing trying this. Would be good for one of the other guys with more experience adjusting these to confirm your diagram since my experience is limited to adjusting hinges that look to be bent. Thanks for the diagram. Very helpful for anyone referring back to this thread.