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64Rivvy

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Everything posted by 64Rivvy

  1. So I finally did this last night. It was every bit as miserable of a job as I thought and then some. A visit to the the outer rings of hell possibly. Part of what made it so bad was just how much gunk and grime there was down there that I needed to clean out. The new lines also needed a lot of tweaking. Just glad it's finally done and i pray they don't leak at all. I didn't have to lift the engine just a lot of fishing the lines through different ways and bending them to for through and then bending them back.
  2. Thanks guys. That is exactly what I did. I had a piece of thick wall fuel line and i split it and it looks like it will work. I'm putting the new ones in tonight and will let you know. There is years ok caked dirt and grime under there that I'm working to clean out while the lines are off so taking longer than planned which is about par for the course. BulldogDriver. Thanks so much for the link. I went ahead and ordered them just in case since they were cheap and i needed a few other parts from inline tube.
  3. Thanks RivNut. I've got some pieces of rubber that I save for just this sort of thing I will dig up. If there was a stock option/replacement I know you would know it. Sounds like I will go that route and I am pledging to have those lines in by tonight. I will give you all an update when I complete it. This is the last obstacle to getting her fired back up again after removing and restoring the heater box, ac system, entire cooling system, all push/pull cables, heater hoses, and replacing lots of missing wiring and vacuum items. Thanks, Raul
  4. I removed my transmission cooler lines tonight finally. It was just as messy and finicky as I expected which is probably why I have been putting it off forever. When I removed the bracket that holds the two lines to the frame up toward the radiator, the rubber insulators inside the bracket the wrap around each hose crumbled when I tried to remove them. Does anyone sell the rubber insulators or a new bracket? I can rig something up with some hose or something but would rather put the OEM parts back in therebif I can. Thanks. Picture of the bracket I'm taking about.
  5. I'm about to replace my tranny cooling lines with new pre-bent lines. I've seen some people say you need to lift the motor to get the lines in there. If that's the case I'm going to just replace the motor mounts and tranny mount at the same time. Do I need to lift the engine to replace the cooling lines or can I get them in there without touching the engine? I'd rather not open a can of worms if I can avoid it. Everything always dominos with these old cars. If I do need to lift the motor to replace the lines, can I replace the tranny mount without removing the driveshaft or will it need to come out. Thanks.
  6. I'm pretty sure the original was a 5 blade fan with 3 blades together and then 2 offset to balance it. At least that's what my original looks like. Thanks.
  7. Hey sure tenugent. Is it a 5 blade fan from an AC car? Thank you.
  8. I have not had any luck finding a fan anywhere. Let me know if anyone comes across one. One on ebay now but it's in bad shape and looks like it came out of a 70. Thanks.
  9. Thanks guys. Sounds like you all agree it's not supposed to be bent or out of line with the other blades. From what I can tell the base of the blade is twisted and the actual blade is also bent. I could hammer and dolly the blade back but the thick metal at the base that looks twisted looks too tough to properly fix. I put a request out to a few folks to see who might have an original in good shape. When I get it I can also compare to verify if my original is badly twisted. The saga continues..
  10. Might want to also check/test the torque converter.
  11. All, So I installed the new clutch fan and it def moved the fan back a good inch toward the motor. I thought my prob was mostly solved until I noticed one fan blade is hitting the power steering belt. It looks like one of the fan blades is bent and may have been damaged. Does one of the fan blades stick out farther than the others normally, or is mine bent? I took a picture where you can see the one blade is a good 1/4 of an inch farther back than the blade next to it. All of the other blades are like the blade on the left. I can take it off and take more pictures if needed. Thanks.
  12. While I have the fan blades out I'm going to clean them up respray them. What is the oem correct color for the fan blades? Would a satin black be good?
  13. 1965rivgs, I just went to rockauto and did that. I found th ey had one clutch fan made for high pitch fan applications requiring a clutch fan lower than OE height. I found a Hayden fan: Heavy Duty Thermal Fan Clutch Features: Turns the fan 70-90% of the shaft speed when engaged for increased cooling Turns the fan 25-35% of the shaft speed when disengaged Used with deeper pitch fans (2-1/2" of pitch) Land and groove design with up to 27 square inch of working surface When I compared the overall height specs this one is a almost a full inch shorter. I ordered it and will try it out. Supposed to come thursday. Hopefully with this and maybe some slight cutting of the shroud it will work. Will let you guys know. Appreciate all the help. Rivnut, I will still take some measurements and update this thread as soon as I get the shroud out.
  14. Are you able to tell what is actually failing with the pumps? Does it seem to be a mechanical failure with the lever arm or a diaphragm failure with low/no fuel pressure. One thi ng I just found on this was to replace all your rubber lines. If they are cracked they could be preventing the vacuum needed to pull fuel to the motor once the pump gets a little more worn in over time.
  15. I may get a new fan clutch just to see if it helps since I'm sure a new one is order anyways. Was waiting until I pull the motor and rebuild it but might as well try it now. Cutting a portion out of the bottom is actually not a bad idea. That would def give me clearance but I'm worried that would limit the effectiveness of the shroud. Might be the next step ii nothing else pans out. Thanks. Raul
  16. Thanks rivnut. Will do tomorrow am. Everything is just mocked up now so not too hard to remove. Here are some more pictures. Not able to get under the car atm. One other possible suspect is that my crossmember might be pushed back a little towards the front of the car. . Something looks a little off with it when I look really closely. I will do some measurements on that also to rule that out as a possibility.
  17. Rivnut, Thanks. If you look in the pics above you can see where my condenser is mounted and how the shroud is mounted to the radiator support as you stated. The issue is that the shroud is flush up against the radiator and cant move toward the front of the car any further without cutting some of the shroud off. Will send more pictures when I get home a bit later. Thanks. Raul
  18. That does not sound right to me. Mechanical Fuel pump should last near about forever. Could something be creating too much pressure in the fuel line causing the fuel pump to fail prematurely. I would think even really cheap fuel pumps would last longer than what you have been seeing. I personally prefer edelbrock mech pumps. Not sure if they make one for the Riviera. I assume they do. Raul
  19. 60flattop, Good idea. I was thinking about this earlier that maybe the motor had shifted forward somehow over time. My guess is the mounts havent been touched in more than 20 years. Would bad mounts allow that much movement though? Like almost a full inch of movement forward?
  20. The radiator is as far back as it can go without fully hitting/touching the condenser. I played around with the brackets but the shroud cant move any closer to the radiator as it's already literally touching the radiator. I'll try to get under there and take some pics.
  21. I figured out a solution on this and wanted to share. It looks stock but a better mounting option that's still provides rubber isolation for vibration. I found these rubber bushings below at ace hardware and a matching shim/washer. The bushing is actually threaded inside, so a bolt can be run from the bottom and the bushing simply turned by hand to tighten, or you can use the stock hardware. I opted to keep the stock nut and bolt since my lower bumper is on and would be hard to get a new bolt in there. What I like about these is the lip and washer on The bushing help to pull the condenser down a bit for more stability rather than just sitting there flopping around a bit like the stock mounts, but still allows it some movement and dampening. Here is what they look like.
  22. Last note on this. Best way I can explain it is that it seems like the radiator needs to move back about an inch or the fan needs to move forward an inch toward the engine for the fan blades to fit into the recess of the shroud that is moulded into the fiberglass to the shape of the fan blades where they would spin. I would simply grind down the shroud, but the way it mounts at the top to the radiator support does not allow me to do that.
  23. Thanks. Here are some measurements. I'm really not sure if the fan blades and clutch on there are stock riviera parts. I checked stock riviera fan clutch and fan parts on ebay and mine look original but if anyone can verify my measurements or has any other ideas please let me know. I may have to give up and switch to an electric fan which I hate to do. Trying to return to 100 percent stock glory. Power steering belt to fan blades: 3/4" Fan blades to front of radiator: 1 7/8" Radiator to power steering belt 4.5" Number of fan blades: 5 Thanks, Raul
  24. Hey all. Ive struggling with this forever and its stopping me from getting my cooling system back together and getting her running again. This is the second shroud I've tried. This one is a nice repro shroud for 63 to 65 riviera from opgi. Good quality. The issue I'm having is that the fan is hitting the bottom of the shroud when I rotate it. At first I though I could adjust the brackets on the crossmember but its just way off. It's not an up down adjustment issues. It seems more like my fan is closer to the radiator than it should be. I'm starting to wonder if maybe the issue is that my fan possibly has an extra spacer on it. There is a recess down in the bottom of the shroud where it would give the blades clearance if the fan blades were about an inch further back. If you have a stock shroud you will know what in referring to. I took some pictures of my fan and clutch. Does it look correct for an ac car? Running out of ideas and really need some help on this. Thanks guys.
  25. I second the kit from Mr. G. I bought an interior kit and it's been great as I redo the interior. Each bag is individually labeled and numbered tying back to a master list of where the screws go. Most are indistinguishable from original hardware though not all are perfect reproductions.
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