64Rivvy

Anyone have any ideas on this? Maybe the capillary line from the expansion valve in the evaporator box is supposed to actually go through the firewall directly to the STV valve? It just doesn't seem long enough to reach.

hi all, I really need some help figuring this out. I'm rebuilding my entire heating and cooling system and am currently replacing the evaporator and expansion valve. When I opened the evap box and compared the expansion valve that is in there now to the new original/period correct one I bought, they are slightly different. As you can see in the side by side picture of the capillary tube connection, the new one has a male connector and the current one has a female connector. The existing expansion valve connects to a line that runs through the firewall and connects to the STV valve. Do I need an adapter or a new hose running from the expAansion valve to the STV valve? I'm not sure what is original here or what might have been replaced/changed by a PO. I reviewed my shop manual thoroughly and walked through it with the AC parts supplier I bought everything from, but am stumped. Any help is appreciated as this is holding me up during the few days I actually have free to work on the car. I included some additional pictures for reference. Any help anyone can provide is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Raul

Bump

Yes sir, that looks just like it.

Right - Even my end tanks were toast. holes all on the bottom side of them on both sides.

I looked into re-coring but mine was just too far gone. The heater box and the core were basically swiss cheese. I just finished doing the fab work needed to rebuild my old rusted out heater box and to get the new core to fit. I'll update my other thread with what was required as soon as I get all the pictures together.

All, I'm still looking for a glove box door for my 64 Riviera. I found a very nice door from a 63, but would really like to find one for a 64. Please let me know if anyone has one available. Thanks.

I'm looking for a 4-way power seat switch for my 64 Riviera. The joystick is broken on mine, so I need a replacement. Thanks.

After doing some more research on this, I think what's on there is a power set up, or at least the wiring harness for a bench seat versus a bucket seat. Does anyone have a picture of the power seat switch on the side of your seat by chance? I want to make sure mine is correct for a 64. If it's correct, I will just use the wiring diagram to re-wire the harness myself. If the switch itself is also not correct, I will just get an entire replacement setup versus chasing gremlins in this one. Also, was the power seat in 64 a 4 way or 6 way? The switch on there now def only has 4 directions it can move. Thanks.

Here's the adjustment switch on my seat. For the feed wire, It was the seat side of the red power feed wire I needed. It's connected to the fuse/circuit breaker behind the kickpanel but cut right before it goes under the seat. I can't figure out where that power wire connects to under the seat either at the relay or to one of the pigtails.

I'm wondering if that pigtail is supposed to go out to a 6-way control switch that would mount on a deluxe door panel. One of the wiring diagrams pointed towards that but hard to tell.

Thanks. This is what mine looks like. I'm not sure where the pigtail connector goes and then I can't see where that main power red feed wire that was cut would connect.

I'm going to re-upholster my seats and while it's apart I need to fix and clean up the power seat mechanism. Right now the red feed wire coming from the breaker on the kickpanel was cut right under the driver's seat. Was there originally a plastic connector on that red wire that mates with the male connector on the bottom of the seat? My wiring diagram doesn't show that level of detail so not quite sure where to start on this one. I also looked through all the diagrams and diagnostic steps in the body manual, and I just can't make sense of it. Where does the main red power feed connect to under the seat? Any help is appreciated. This looks like it will be a fun one to fix..

I found a vendor on ebay that sells 1.5" vinyl hose w/Nylon reinforcement as a direct replacement to the original cloth hose. OPGI sells both the cloth and vinyl 2.75" hose. The vinyl is 18.99 for a 6 ft piece, so I will get it with my next order when I buy new carpet and a few other items.

Thanks - that is exactly the same valve I was planning to use. I found it on ebay, but now using your part number I can get it locally which I prefer. Thanks!

I am going through this same exercise now. I got the core from someplace else but it's the same scenario. Much smaller and lighter. I am using some plastic and rubber spacers under it on each side along with some insulation or foam around the perimeter wherever it needs to be airtight. I have also rebuilt and re-painted the airbox and all the heater/ac parts while I'm doing it.

Just to circle back on this. The smaller diameter hose that runs from the defrost outlet down through the console and connects to the console on the driver's side is 1.5" diameter hose. The hoses that connect to the dash vent balls from the evaporator assembly and air/heater assembly look to be 2.75" diameter.

I have the PST kit. In the process of installing it so can't speak to the ride yet, but components look very good, very complete kit, and service was great and shipping was very fast.

Just updating this old thread for anyone doing searches on 64 heater valves and comes across it. I checked with Jim Tucker recently and he confirmed that the original heater control valve for a 64 cannot be rebuilt. It must be replaced.

Well it didn't pass the simple blow test so I'm out of luck. Will need to find a new one that will work..

I thought I remembered seeing a thread about the aftermarket valve but couldn't find it after searching. If anyone does find it, please link that thread here.

So that before and after is the same piece of vinyl? If yes, that's pretty amazing. Looks great.

Good ideas - I'll try the blow test first though I'm sure I'll be tasting PB Blaster for a few days.. If that passes, I'll clamp an extra piece of heater tubing i have on to the valve and connect the other end to my compressor blower fitting and set at about 10-12psi to test it in a bucket of water. appreciate the ideas. Thanks!

Thank you guys for confirming! I love it when the answer is easy AND cheap!

I've measured and checked with a few vendors, but wanted to confirm because I'm getting conflicting sizes. What size replacement hose do I need to order for the two hoses that run to the ball vents on the dash, and then the smaller diameter hose inside the console that runs to the console small side vent. Thanks.